Araf

6 hours ago, Vince Taylor said:

Thanks Gents, would a Moderator just confirm this please before I pull the trigger (so to speak) 🤣

To paraphrase Jay-Z - I've got 99 problems and your post ain't one.

Truth be told, @John K is 98 of them.

37 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Which are Textar...

But which composition?  All manufacturers make lots of formulas.

I use genuine @Purdie.  Maybe a little more expensive than other options but you know they work and you know they'll last.

On 8/6/2023 at 7:43 PM, M4can5 said:

It was a long traffic filled drive back to Norfolk but with the top down for almost the whole journey it was well worth it.  

22 hours ago, Davey P said:

Almost...? Unacceptable mate, must try harder... 😂

You first.  

13 minutes ago, Paul P said:

Except that on stop start cars you shouldn’t go direct to battery terminals, but use the “charging post” for negative.
 

 which I don’t think has a bolt for permanent connection. So folks tend to pick up a spare “hole” the suspension top I believe.  

but yeah. I get why it’s a reasonable approach.  

Charge posts are for booster batteries, if you're jumping a car.  That's why they are so thick.  Trickle charger cable are so thin, they will never carry the amps sufficient to damage the car's systems.

3 minutes ago, Paul P said:

Varies by model I think.

Which is exactly why I hardwire to the battery.  In 100% of cases, I know it will then get charged.

On 7/15/2023 at 10:31 AM, Ringmaster999 said:

Regards stop/start function it’s something I always turn off on start up. But when I sometimes forget it worked fine. Even to the point if I did forget to turn it off when I got to the exit of my estate some 100 meters from the house it would turn off at the traffic lights. So again never any indication the battery was weak.

On my start-stop cars, if the battery has been even slightly below fully charged, the start-stop disables.  I'm sure it's the case for all start-stop systems, so with yours working properly I can't see how the battery was at fault.  Your symptoms would suggest a loose or dry terminal to me.

As for £251 saving the day, that battery is £163 from Tayna (retail) and breakdown drivers get commission on battery sales.  I'm not suggesting an unscrupulous AA man but the financial incentive may have been sufficient for him to not be as thorough as he may otherwise have been.

Finally, the trickle charging.  I'm sure that the 12v sockets on Porsches (and other cars) shut down as the car goes to sleep.  For this reason, I always hard wire to battery terminals for long periods of use (car inactivity).

16 minutes ago, CMA said:

https://www.design911.co.uk/porsche/macan/replacement-for-ceramic-disc/

Looks like non standard ceramic replacements for just discs, no pads is about £4k all round. Jeez, thank feck I have boring old fashioned steelies on my Macan GTS. 

4x the cost of conventional but they last around 120k.

1 hour ago, Stuart21UK said:

go on change his avatar to

double dare you 🤣

 

 

You're lucky that sort of think is above my pay grade - or @John K would have suffered badly in the past.

1 hour ago, Stuart21UK said:

Or we could just get @Araf to change your name to 'diamondgeezer'....save us the hassle 👍

I just call him 56lbs rather than @½cwt.

2 hours ago, iborguk said:

400ml per bar and if you get the car plugged into a PIWIS it can provide the actual oil level ml value.

I always worked on 200ml per bar - 1 litre between top and bottom.

7 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

Advertising your services Davey? 👍

It says CAYman.  

47 minutes ago, Paul P said:

They coded it wrong. Think @Araf had similar.  

Very correct.  Porsche managed to screw mine up when they fitted and lived up the cruise.  They forgot to re-tick the Nav and Chrono options on the upload (I think).  It'll only take whoever did yours, under 30 minutes to put right.

I'd be interested to know how much you were charged for the Nav update.  @Richard Hamilton previously did mine for a very reasonable price.    

  Your speeling is atrocious at the moment.  I'll get it moved to Hot To.

3 hours ago, moonshine said:

Nope - the BOLT has sheared

If the belt and tensioner are still in good condition then it is just a sheered bolt and the part number is not on the consumables list. 

The 987.2 tensioner and belt (I assume you meant this rather than bolt) have similar part numbers (9A110221100 and9A110221601).  If the belt shows signs of wear, it's a fair cop.  If the belt is in good condition apart from a cut across it, you can expect the tensioner to have let go first.

Your car is obviously a few years old, when was the belt last inpected and changed?

On 4/12/2023 at 6:59 PM, Paul P said:

Had similar on an MOT years ago - mate had 2 FS1E's - one really nice (that was being fixed after an unfortunate incident with a Panda Pepsi lorry) and a ratter that had seen him through.

We took both for an MOT - nice one passed no issue, ratter failed on rear tyre, lights, buckled rear wheel and rear shocks - MOT tester said " I am going for lunch, if you want to borrow my tools and swap the bits over while I am gone I will retest when I get back - save you going all the way home... if you buy my lunch for me"

10 quid well spent ( was a few years ago)

You only need a screwdriver, to swap the number plates.  

20 minutes ago, And.rs1800 said:

What an utter throbber.

 Take him to the feking cleaners now.

  

My thoughts too.  How's your neck today?

Whilst it is your right to use your preferred repairer, the insurance company could ask you to have the car inspected at their own repairers, o that the repair estimate from your garage isn't out of kilter with the going rate.  Less scrupulous people might have their body shop inflate the price and then get a kick back or additional work completed.

Sorry to hear you've already dented it.  As @Menoporsche said, they do black tips and also carbon exhaust tips for the 987.2.  I thought my last Boxster had black tips, but then I cleaned them.

42 minutes ago, Boxer boy said:

Problem changing before a winter lay up period , inc infrequent use is left standing you get water condensation inside the sump .So by spring the oils pretty water contaminated.

But you get internal etching from old oil.  It is always best to have fresh oil before a lay-up.

Have a banana and chill.  

43 minutes ago, EXY said:

Anywho he had a UniRoyal cardboard advertising sign which was an orangutan on a tyre swing which he let me have, pretty sure I still have it somewhere. Might put it in my man-cave if I can find it 

Now, whenever I see a Orang Utan, I'll think of you. 

I really rate Uniroyal Rainsports but have tried them on everything apart from a Boxster, unfortunately.  They don't use make the size you list anyway.

Kumho KU39 can be got in the right size.  I've just had a set put on the Vanquish and previously had them on a VXR8 and found them quite acceptable.

2 hours ago, Bike Loon said:

I am sure @Araf might let you given you have been on the forum for 2 years 

Now posted in classifieds.  I'm not adding all the images though!

Good luck with the sale.

Spider tyres.  I've moved it to the Spyder area and locked it.  If you add a price or PM me a price I can add, it can stay.

If I don't hear from you @Maxthedane, I'll bin the thread tomorrow.

eta:  You might want to put how much tread is left, rather than how many miles you've done.