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What have YOU done to your 986 today ?


Mike G

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1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

The rubbers can be replaced with a common after market part and the same fits both ends of the shaft and are about £15 each, I got GKN/Lobro ones from D911 but they are not listing them at the moment, on Autodoc 304115 LÖBRO Bellow Set, drive shaft 81,00 mm, NBR (nitrile butadiene rubber) ▷ AUTODOC price and review for a 6 speed.  As long as the actual joints are OK you can de-grease and re-grease them, the grease came with the bellows in the kit above.  You can strip the inboard end to component parts and inspect for any wear and pitting.  I did this nearly 5 years ago now and they are still running fine.  Outboard end, which you can't take apart, you can flush to remove all grease and then inspect and the outside should be cleaned of rust and painted to lengthen life too.

Porsche part numbers are 996 332 293 00 for a 5 speed or 928 332 293 02 for a 6 speed version, 5 speed Lobro from Autodoc is 307225 LÖBRO Bellow Set, drive shaft 78,5 mm, NBR (nitrile butadiene rubber) ▷ AUTODOC price and review.

Very helpful, thank you sir

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22 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

You have to be a bit canny doing this as the Variocam system has 2 versions on the 3.2 for the 986 and you need the correct control system for the correct engine so they'd need to match you car if you wanted to use the engine as a direct swap.  Also they ain't cheap to buy (£2.5k upwards) or rebuild.

Early days yet. Hopefully this one will be sound.

Just my realist brain working.

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31 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

You have to be a bit canny doing this as the Variocam system has 2 versions on the 3.2 for the 986 and you need the correct control system for the correct engine so they'd need to match you car if you wanted to use the engine as a direct swap.  Also they ain't cheap to buy (£2.5k upwards) or rebuild.

Cheaper maybe if you buy a broken one and but if you do a full rebuild or even an upgrade rebuild the parts alone are going to quote the difference. 

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31 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

You have to be a bit canny doing this as the Variocam system has 2 versions on the 3.2 for the 986 and you need the correct control system for the correct engine so they'd need to match you car if you wanted to use the engine as a direct swap.  Also they ain't cheap to buy (£2.5k upwards) or rebuild.

Cheaper maybe if you buy a broken one and but if you do a full rebuild or even an upgrade rebuild the parts alone are going to quote the difference. 

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14 hours ago, ATM said:

Very helpful, thank you sir

As is the driveshaft eBay shop you dropped int the 987 section.  A pair of new (after market) 986 3.2 drive shafts got £184!  You'd struggle to get decent used ones at that price. I've reproduced it below from the J&R shop with a 986 search on it:

porsche 986 | eBay

Question is, who will be the guineapig to find out if they are any good....?  Seems to be a bona fide business based in Martson Green, Birmingham with a decent history.  The shafts I checked are slightly cheaper on their eBay shop than directly from their website.

Edited by ½cwt
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20 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

As is the driveshaft eBay shop you dropped int the 987 section.  A pair of new (after market) 986 3.2 drive shafts got £184!  You'd struggle to get decent used ones at that price. I've reproduced it below from the J&R shop with a 986 search on it:

porsche 986 | eBay

Question is, who will be the guineapig to find out if they are any good....?  Seems to be a bona fide business based in Martson Green, Birmingham with a decent history.  The shafts I checked are slightly cheaper on their eBay shop than directly from their website.

I'm not particularly excited about new, especially none OEM. But saying that I don't mine using pattern parts and I can't see drive shafts snapping with only 250 bhp. I did see a comment [somewhere] about glueing the current split rubbers back together and I'm excited about the cheapness of that as a repair. At same time don't know how bad current joints are as have been on car without grease for unknown period of time. So I'm all over the place and obviously undecided. Does the Internet need me to step up and he a guinea pig?

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24 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

As is the driveshaft eBay shop you dropped int the 987 section.  A pair of new (after market) 986 3.2 drive shafts got £184!  You'd struggle to get decent used ones at that price. I've reproduced it below from the J&R shop with a 986 search on it:

porsche 986 | eBay

Question is, who will be the guineapig to find out if they are any good....?  Seems to be a bona fide business based in Martson Green, Birmingham with a decent history.  The shafts I checked are slightly cheaper on their eBay shop than directly from their website.

I'm on a couple of Volvo pages on FB and they have a very mixed reputation. The guys running the 5pot T5 and D5 engines usually saying the J&R shafts get chewed up pretty quick. A lot of those guys are running lowered cars + bigger power though and that contributes.

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3 hours ago, ATM said:

I'm not particularly excited about new, especially none OEM. But saying that I don't mine using pattern parts and I can't see drive shafts snapping with only 250 bhp. I did see a comment [somewhere] about glueing the current split rubbers back together and I'm excited about the cheapness of that as a repair. At same time don't know how bad current joints are as have been on car without grease for unknown period of time. So I'm all over the place and obviously undecided. Does the Internet need me to step up and he a guinea pig?

4 four boots were split on min at purchase.  I left the outer ends in the hubs and packed in extra grease then fitted a new boot.  I stripped cleaned and then rebuilt and repacked the inners.  5 years later, all still good.  For £50 to 60 I wouldn't repair the boots as you will be redoing them again soon I'd reckon.

On the after market shafts they look to have a long history in making refurbing and repairing drive shafts.  Got to be worse punt out there...

3 hours ago, Jimbop90 said:

I'm on a couple of Volvo pages on FB and they have a very mixed reputation. The guys running the 5pot T5 and D5 engines usually saying the J&R shafts get chewed up pretty quick. A lot of those guys are running lowered cars + bigger power though and that contributes.

If you change the angle and up the power, a joint will be working beyond design tolerance, so early failure is very predictable particular given the outer shaft is handling a steering angle too.  Second question is why did they fit a J&R shaft, possibly because the factory shaft had already failed? 🤔   I don't know the shaft diameter or the torque figures the T5 produces but I suspect the first is much the same as the 986 and the second could be up to double...  Doing a read through most of the failures seen to be on high power or modded front drive cars.  Standard cars and RWD don't seem to crop up other than the odd no problem comment so need to compare apples with apples for fairness.  Not sure they are such a high risk for a 986S with less suspension travel and no steering to cope with, but then again I don't need any drive shafts at the moment!

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Finished all the wiring and resistor installations for my door speaker upgrade.  Just waiting for the 4 pins to go in the door loom sockets in the A-pillar to connect the door speakers.

Took the car for a quick flat six fix and to check for any rattles after the installation, what I did notice that was a nice surprise was sharper throttle response in the nice cool dense autumn air, and noted that I'd had the battery disconnect for some time due to working on airbags during the door card swap.  I'm wondering if the DME is learning again and the electronic throttle has reset after having no power for an hour or so, combined with new coil packs fitted a few weeks ago.  I know back in my Impreza days that disconnecting the ECU for 30 mins was a way to reset everything and regain any lost performance.

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23 hours ago, ATM said:

Yeah I'd think fwd a much more aggressive environment compared to rwd for a cv joint.

Absolutely. I run my 250 BHP FWD Skoda track car flat out most of the time on track and I have had one CV fail last year. Not surprisingly I thought at the time. Actually semi seized at about 120 mph and pulled the car violently to the nearside, (which is the CV that failed).

It was in the process of breaking up but luckily happened towards the end of the day, so no real bother and an easy fix. 

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4 minutes ago, phazed said:

Absolutely. I run my 250 BHP FWD Skoda track car flat out most of the time on track and I have had one CV fail last year. Not surprisingly I thought at the time. Actually semi seized at about 120 mph and pulled the car violently to the nearside, (which is the CV that failed).

It was in the process of breaking up but luckily happened towards the end of the day, so no real bother and an easy fix. 

I think the length of the shaft is a factor.  On a Porsche the gearbox / diff is quite narrow so the shafts are long.  This means the CV moves in a larger arc so the angles are not so severe that it has to deal with.

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32 minutes ago, phazed said:

Interesting.

I need to replace the coil packs on my 986. Any recommendations?

Breu ZS178 are the OE. About £15 each from Autodoc and are what I fitted to mine.  Don't be distracted by ZS177, this is the old part before Porsche up issued their part number, which are priced 2 to 3 times higher.

Edited by ½cwt
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23 minutes ago, ATM said:

I think the length of the shaft is a factor.  On a Porsche the gearbox / diff is quite narrow so the shafts are long.  This means the CV moves in a larger arc so the angles are not so severe that it has to deal with.

But not as long as the unequal length of a front drive car with an offset gearbox.

Something I liked about the Impreza was equal length front drive shafts as well as rear.

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1 minute ago, ½cwt said:

But not as long as the unequal length of a front drive car with an offset gearbox.

Something I liked about the Impreza was equal length front drive shafts as well as rear.

Yes I'm assuming the shorter one is the one which generally fails?

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2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Breu ZS178 are the OE. About £15 each from Autodoc and are what I fitted to mine.  Don't be distracted by ZS177, this is the old part before Porsche up issued their part number, which are priced 2 to 3 times higher.

Thanks for this info, but.... Autodoc states that these do fit all 2002-2004 Boxsters - not earlier ones. Mine is 2001 2.7 and from the signature it looks like yours is 2000 S (obviously these work well on your car).

Do you know why is this that these are stated not the right ones for 2001?

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11 minutes ago, pacificjuha said:

Thanks for this info, but.... Autodoc states that these do fit all 2002-2004 Boxsters - not earlier ones. Mine is 2001 2.7 and from the signature it looks like yours is 2000 S (obviously these work well on your car).

Do you know why is this that these are stated not the right ones for 2001?

I think the 'new' ones just come with new bolts, which won't fit, but the coil pack itself will.

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Had a chappie around to de-dent the front and rear right wings. The rear had a slight ding in it from previous owner - not bad but a bit visible as it was right on the corner of the trailing edge of the arch, above the bumper. Apparently it's double-skinned there which gave the lad a little more trouble than he expected.
The front was a very small depression on the top of the wing, about half way along - looked as if somebody passing by with a bit of wood had taken exception to the car's presence and given it a tap. A bit obvious due to the reflective nature of that long, continuous surface. No breakage of the paint surface on either.
All kissed better now, and done on the driveway.

Oh, and I gave the hood a bucket of Fabsil Gold to drink.

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2 hours ago, pacificjuha said:

Thanks for this info, but.... Autodoc states that these do fit all 2002-2004 Boxsters - not earlier ones. Mine is 2001 2.7 and from the signature it looks like yours is 2000 S (obviously these work well on your car).

Do you know why is this that these are stated not the right ones for 2001?

If you buy one from Porsche for a 2000 car it will be the up-issued version ZS178.  The up-issue fixes a weakness around the mounting bolts holes so they are the full height of the coil on the revised version making them more durable. You can still order the earlier version ZS177, but why by 2 to 3 times more for a part with a known weakness?

2 hours ago, Jimbop90 said:

I think the 'new' ones just come with new bolts, which won't fit, but the coil pack itself will.

The Beru parts come with new longer bolts the correct length so you don't have to worry about that.  You need an E10 female Torx socket.  Originals are a 5mm Allen bolt when you come to remove them.

I have fitted the BERU ZS178 coil packs to my 2000 Boxster S in the last few weeks including running for over 500 miles since with no issues.

 

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2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

If you buy one from Porsche for a 2000 car it will be the up-issued version ZS178.  The up-issue fixes a weakness around the mounting bolts holes so they are the full height of the coil on the revised version making them more durable. You can still order the earlier version ZS177, but why by 2 to 3 times more for a part with a known weakness?

The Beru parts come with new longer bolts the correct length so you don't have to worry about that.  You need an E10 female Torx socket.  Originals are a 5mm Allen bolt when you come to remove them.

I have fitted the BERU ZS178 coil packs to my 2000 Boxster S in the last few weeks including running for over 500 miles since with no issues.

 

Thank you again. Just placed order for those Beru coil packs among other winter service items, like 4 each wheel bearings...

Edited by pacificjuha
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On 10/20/2023 at 6:50 PM, Mattman42 said:

Polytrol is the answer to your black trim problems

…and it was.

Today it turned up and I applied it to the completely faded scuttle under the windscreen.

Voila.

Good as new. Thanks for the tip.

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