What have YOU done to your 986 today ?

[½cwt]

3 hours ago, Linton944 said:

Got the heated rear window working, it was just unplugged !

I've only had mine a month but really enjoying it, gradually getting sorted as it hadn't been used much for some years (2001 2.7)

Looks like the hood elastic around the top/rear of the side window needs some attention.

[Menoporsche]

4 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Completed the conversion to add door speakers.  Sound is now much improved with more depth with the large speakers and their boxes in the doors adding more lower tones and bass.  Only done setup work through the head unit so not tested it on the road yet, but looking good so far. 😁

Congrats. Most say that’s a big improvement (especially when the speakers are good ones). How would you describe it in terms of technical difficulty, if others are interested?

[phazed]

4 hours ago, Linton944 said:

Got the heated rear window working, it was just unplugged !

I've only had mine a month but really enjoying it, gradually getting sorted as it hadn't been used much for some years (2001 2.7)

 

I thought 2001 cars had a plastic rear window, in fact up to 2002. Am I wrong?

[bally4563]

Correct however so many peeps have replaced the roof off a face lift with the glass screen 

[edc]

Or even an aftermarket hood as that one appears to be. 

[bally4563]

Today three of us have pushed the old man’s car up a significant slope into his garage, ready for the removal of the engine, tomorrow replacement arrives to get dropped off in front of the garage.. all about logistics! And tttttiming!

[½cwt]

1 hour ago, Menoporsche said:

Congrats. Most say that’s a big improvement (especially when the speakers are good ones). How would you describe it in terms of technical difficulty, if others are interested?

Using the 101 Projects book method, 3 spanners.

I spent quite a lot of time studying the wiring diagrams to check what went to where.  I did look at doing it a few years ago but couldn't find a pair of grey door cards.  When @Fat Rat linked to some I thought I'd give it a go as the same place (Douglas Valley) also has a pair of door speaker boxes.

The biggest problem is that you need to connect new pins to the loom socket between the A-pillar and the door.  I was lucky to find more recent door looms that wired in the speakers and also the courtesy lights that saved a lot of wiring work, but changing a door loom is a good hour to hour and a half's work and involved disconnecting and removing the airbag units, so not your basic work but if you plod through it not too bad.  The actual speaker physical fitting is straight forward and works with the standard membrane but you need fresh butyl tape to refix the membrane to the door.  In my case I was not adding an amp so I have to fit power resistors with the dash and door speakers so the head unit still 'sees' the same impedance.

So you need to find the correct door cards, correct door looms (or add female pins to your existing door loom socket). Add resistors to the speakers (they just plug in line) and splice the door speakers from the dash speakers (the shortest wiring loom addition) and add new pins in the A-pillar loom socket.  Understanding of the wiring and time, the mechanics are fairly easy.  I won't be doing a How To as I didn't take any pics as I did it and there's more than one way to achieve it, and I was lucky to source the salvage bits that I did but I did mine on a budget of about £220 including a pair of Pioneer 13cm speakers (£40), 4 power resistors (£10), 2 used door looms with speaker wiring included (£20), a pair of door cards (£75), a pair of door speaker boxes (£54), 8 self tappers and speed nuts (for the speaker boxes, from my stock), 4 'X11' door to A Pillar socket pins 999 652 570 22 (£3.50 for OPC) and a roll of butyl sealing tape (£11) and consumables, wire, crimp connectors, insulating tape.

Sorting the airbag error issue I've caused today, £TBA.

[½cwt]

55 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

Today three of us have pushed the old man’s car up a significant slope into his garage, ready for the removal of the engine, tomorrow replacement arrives to get dropped off in front of the garage.. all about logistics! And tttttiming!

Time to start a topic for this project, Mick?

[bally4563]

20 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Time to start a topic for this project, Mick?

I think I will , once we get started, but can’t trust the old man not to crack on  , bugger is eighty ! And I work away a lot, hopefully he realises getting up and down a lot pays its toll the following day!! But I’m sure he will think hard and long before attempting the big stuff🤞

[Menoporsche]

42 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Using the 101 Projects book method, 3 spanners.

I spent quite a lot of time studying the wiring diagrams to check what went to where.  I did look at doing it a few years ago but couldn't find a pair of grey door cards.  When @Fat Rat linked to some I thought I'd give it a go as the same place (Douglas Valley) also has a pair of door speaker boxes.

The biggest problem is that you need to connect new pins to the loom socket between the A-pillar and the door.  I was lucky to find more recent door looms that wired in the speakers and also the courtesy lights that saved a lot of wiring work, but changing a door loom is a good hour to hour and a half's work and involved disconnecting and removing the airbag units, so not your basic work but if you plod through it not too bad.  The actual speaker physical fitting is straight forward and works with the standard membrane but you need fresh butyl tape to refix the membrane to the door.  In my case I was not adding an amp so I have to fit power resistors with the dash and door speakers so the head unit still 'sees' the same impedance.

So you need to find the correct door cards, correct door looms (or add female pins to your existing door loom socket). Add resistors to the speakers (they just plug in line) and splice the door speakers from the dash speakers (the shortest wiring loom addition) and add new pins in the A-pillar loom socket.  Understanding of the wiring and time, the mechanics are fairly easy.  I won't be doing a How To as I didn't take any pics as I did it and there's more than one way to achieve it, and I was lucky to source the salvage bits that I did but I did mine on a budget of about £220 including a pair of Pioneer 13cm speakers (£40), 4 power resistors (£10), 2 used door looms with speaker wiring included (£20), a pair of door cards (£75), a pair of door speaker boxes (£54), 8 self tappers and speed nuts (for the speaker boxes, from my stock), 4 'X11' door to A Pillar socket pins 999 652 570 22 (£3.50 for OPC) and a roll of butyl sealing tape (£11) and consumables, wire, crimp connectors, insulating tape.

Sorting the airbag error issue I've caused today, £TBA.

If you post this into a separate thread, it pretty much is a How To    Better than burying it here. 

[½cwt]

OK.  When I investigate the airbag issue I'll try to take some useful pics too.

[Fat Rat]

18 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Using the 101 Projects book method, 3 spanners.

I spent quite a lot of time studying the wiring diagrams to check what went to where.  I did look at doing it a few years ago but couldn't find a pair of grey door cards.  When @Fat Rat linked to some I thought I'd give it a go as the same place (Douglas Valley) also has a pair of door speaker boxes.

The biggest problem is that you need to connect new pins to the loom socket between the A-pillar and the door.  I was lucky to find more recent door looms that wired in the speakers and also the courtesy lights that saved a lot of wiring work, but changing a door loom is a good hour to hour and a half's work and involved disconnecting and removing the airbag units, so not your basic work but if you plod through it not too bad.  The actual speaker physical fitting is straight forward and works with the standard membrane but you need fresh butyl tape to refix the membrane to the door.  In my case I was not adding an amp so I have to fit power resistors with the dash and door speakers so the head unit still 'sees' the same impedance.

So you need to find the correct door cards, correct door looms (or add female pins to your existing door loom socket). Add resistors to the speakers (they just plug in line) and splice the door speakers from the dash speakers (the shortest wiring loom addition) and add new pins in the A-pillar loom socket.  Understanding of the wiring and time, the mechanics are fairly easy.  I won't be doing a How To as I didn't take any pics as I did it and there's more than one way to achieve it, and I was lucky to source the salvage bits that I did but I did mine on a budget of about £220 including a pair of Pioneer 13cm speakers (£40), 4 power resistors (£10), 2 used door looms with speaker wiring included (£20), a pair of door cards (£75), a pair of door speaker boxes (£54), 8 self tappers and speed nuts (for the speaker boxes, from my stock), 4 'X11' door to A Pillar socket pins 999 652 570 22 (£3.50 for OPC) and a roll of butyl sealing tape (£11) and consumables, wire, crimp connectors, insulating tape.

Sorting the airbag error issue I've caused today, £TBA.

Can't keep blaming me for that! 🤣🤣

Pleased you got there and can hear the difference.

Still waiting for a reply from my message about door bin flaps. 😉👍

[½cwt]

17 minutes ago, Fat Rat said:

Can't keep blaming me for that! 🤣🤣

Pleased you got there and can hear the difference.

Still waiting for a reply from my message about door bin flaps. 😉👍

Ah, yes. I have every thing off the old door cards except the black covers over the door release, one arrived broken and a clip snapped on one of mine taking it off, fortunately opposite sides.

I'll have a look how the bin flaps come off.

 

BTW You'll always get blamed for it, mate! 😉

[nelmo]

On 10/29/2023 at 1:33 PM, ATM said:

Removed engine mounts from their brackets. 

 

Read a few comments from people saying you can bend the brackets if you just try to brute force off the big nut without using something like a vice. I don't have a vice. So I used a 24mm open ended spanner to hold the bracket. Slotted on perfectly. Then the persuader did its thing.

Also I don't have the correct e-torque socket thing. So I used a 6 sided 19mm socket which worked perfectly. 

You say 'engine mounts' - are those not gearbox mounts? Or is that the same thing in Boxsters?

My specialist told me I had leaking/corroded gearbox mounts and when I looked on YT, that is what the videos showed me...

 

[edc]

Gearbox mounts for Boxsters are engine mounts in 911. 

[ATM]

Looking at the mounts I have removed they look fine. Is it possible my sagging exhaust is caused by the front centre mount and the 2 rears are fine? Is there a way to check the rear mounts? I've seen some pics on Internet where you can see it has sagged. My mounts don't look sagged but my exhaust was almost dragging on the road.

[½cwt]

26 minutes ago, ATM said:

Looking at the mounts I have removed they look fine. Is it possible my sagging exhaust is caused by the front centre mount and the 2 rears are fine? Is there a way to check the rear mounts? I've seen some pics on Internet where you can see it has sagged. My mounts don't look sagged but my exhaust was almost dragging on the road.

If a mount is going to go it is usually the front mount.

[ATM]

9 hours ago, ½cwt said:

If a mount is going to go it is usually the front mount.

Damn

 

I have been wasting my time with the rears

[½cwt]

24 minutes ago, ATM said:

Damn

 

I have been wasting my time with the rears

The front mount takes all the torque reversals of the motor and gearbox.  The rubber bushing eventually starts to tear around the central bush in the mount as the rubber ages, gear change quality deteriorates and the shift quality through the gear lever can feel sloppy or baulky.  Might even make you think the clutch is on its way out as the driver train moves around when you change gear with the extra movement on the front mount.

Sounds familiar?

[ATM]

10 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

The front mount takes all the torque reversals of the motor and gearbox.  The rubber bushing eventually starts to tear around the central bush in the mount as the rubber ages, gear change quality deteriorates and the shift quality through the gear lever can feel sloppy or baulky.  Might even make you think the clutch is on its way out as the driver train moves around when you change gear with the extra movement on the front mount.

Sounds familiar?

Gear change is awful and I can feel everything lurching around but the internet told me to check the rear mounts first.

[edc]

Symptom of engine mount. Had the same a long time ago and changed out for a new 987 engine mount. 

[½cwt]

2 hours ago, ATM said:

Gear change is awful and I can feel everything lurching around but the internet told me to check the rear mounts first.

Trust in the power of BoXa.net....

34 minutes ago, edc said:

Symptom of engine mount. Had the same a long time ago and changed out for a new 987 engine mount. 

The 986 part number up issues to 987 375 023 05 for around £200 including the bracket, or you can get a bush for around £30 and press the old one out and fit a new one, there is a tool for this within the forum collective that is loaned out.

 

[Fat Rat]

23 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Ah, yes. I have every thing off the old door cards except the black covers over the door release, one arrived broken and a clip snapped on one of mine taking it off, fortunately opposite sides.

I'll have a look how the bin flaps come off.

 

BTW You'll always get blamed for it, mate! 😉

Nice one Sir. 👍

Them handle covers are a bit delicate. Busted one of mine.

[phazed]

I did lots of tuning to my TVR’s over the years always putting the cars on the rollers to see improvements.

What my group of like minded track focused pals and I came to the conclusion was that anything under about 40 BHP isn’t worth the effort and certainly cost for an NA engine.

I understand that an improvement of 10ish bhp and a little torque may be noticed but my point is for road work, is it worth it as most cars never get above a little right foot acceleration in the first few gears.

Saying that I am a serial fiddler and upgrader.

 

keep up the good work!

[TV8]

2 hours ago, phazed said:

I did lots of tuning to my TVR’s over the years always putting the cars on the rollers to see improvements.

What my group of like minded track focused pals and I came to the conclusion was that anything under about 40 BHP isn’t worth the effort and certainly cost for an NA engine.

I understand that an improvement of 10ish bhp and a little torque may be noticed but my point is for road work, is it worth it as most cars never get above a little right foot acceleration in the first few gears.

Saying that I am a serial fiddler and upgrader.

 

keep up the good work!

Before you know it, people will be talking categories; modified, mildly modified, seriously modified..