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What have YOU done to your 986 today ?


Mike G

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18 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

IIRC the problem was with the original switches, something about “latching”. More complex than just joining red and black wires. All I know is, like the door speakers, there’s a reason many don’t do it. But as 56lbs found, persevere and it’s all possible. 

Most solutions I have seen make the addition of a switch near to the seat position controls.  From the How To section:

 

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So I want to remove the front central engine mount to inspect.  I already had a quick look.  Definitely one plastic cover needs to come off.  I did not remove this yet.  Will that be enough?  And then does the mount just come off? Any tips or pointers greatly appreciated and thanks.

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18 hours ago, Jimbop90 said:

Most of the water pump bolts are easily accessed through that panel.

 

Access panel has to come off as from underneath the bottom pulley will be in the way as for engine mount  support engine and unbolt the whole mounting 6 bolts I think from memory 

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What do you think of these grills? They are partly for aesthetics (I think they look good, even my wife likes them), and partly practical (preventing leaves blowing in to block the radiators).

The first photo is the original grill ...B7.thumb.jpg.8eb3709408bf85073a49e1c9a985d8c1.jpg

 

The next photo is with the grills painted black ...

2.jpg.1b13a46a7da26cdf8d7cc08853720bf6.jpg

 

and the third stage is with mesh grills added ...  (see next post)

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

 

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4 hours ago, DeeCee said:

Stage 3 ... with mesh grills ..

3.jpg

 

2.jpg

5.jpg

 

6.jpg

7.jpg

 

Regards from Perth

Derek

@DeeCee, tidy solution and far cheaper than the front fitting Zunsport grilles.  There's two options, in front, easier to clear any caught leaves and debris, or behind the grilles which are more discrete but more difficult to get gathered debris out of.  You do lose the contrast of the titanium highlighted grilles of the S cars.

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Today was fairly relaxed. Removed the centre consul and exposed the handbrake switch which seems to work. While I was there, changed the gear shifter for the modified 987 shifter that I had on the shelf.
Changed all the fuel tank straps for a better set which I treated and painted first. Had to drop the front subframe to access the long top strap so removed, treated and painted a few brackets as well as the power steering solid lines.

Drained the brake fluid and discovered one sheared off brake nipple in the rear caliper. Excellent! Just what I need.

Loosened all the bolts to remove the front suspension legs. Generally faffed around.

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On 11/15/2023 at 9:08 AM, bally4563 said:

Access panel has to come off as from underneath the bottom pulley will be in the way as for engine mount  support engine and unbolt the whole mounting 6 bolts I think from memory 

I watched a vid from that American guy in his garage with an early red 2.5

He just pushed the water pipes out the way and fiddled it out with a bit of engine adjustment

Looks simple enough 

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Found two stripped threads in two separate hubs where the callipers bolt on ffs! Will try Helicoils before hub replacement.

On the plus side, oh no, there isn’t one…

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50 minutes ago, phazed said:

Found two stripped threads in two separate hubs where the callipers bolt on ffs! Will try Helicoils before hub replacement.

On the plus side, oh no, there isn’t one…

I will find something in my garage that may help you out in the morning 

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1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

Is that like a Timesert @bally4563?

Yes Chris but I have found much more easier/reliable than a heli coil had issues in the past with a HC , as fixed then screwed fetching the HC back out again, questionable wether I’ve installed incorrectly, but I don’t think so

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9 hours ago, bally4563 said:

Yes Chris but I have found much more easier/reliable than a heli coil had issues in the past with a HC , as fixed then screwed fetching the HC back out again, questionable whether I’ve installed incorrectly, but I don’t think so

They are a much better fix than a helicoil, as you say, effectively inserting a steel threaded bush into the alloy.  The main trick is the depth of rebate which I guess the tooling controls for you.  Is it easy enough to sue on the car as usually I've seen parts requiring these worked on on the bench?

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