What have YOU done to your 986 today ?

[Paul P]

1 hour ago, Red14 said:

G'day fellow forum members, I hope you can assist with my project car. From what I've read so far it looks like I'm in the right place.

Newbie to the forum, but not to Porsche. Had 2 x boxsters previously, 1 manual, 1 tip and then 9114S. Every one a money pit!

Despite the history I recently decided to purchase a Boxster 986, it's a 2002 2.7 manual and it's a bit of a dog. Rose tints were firmly on when I got it but hey, I like a challenge and I'm really up for it. At least it has a hard top which is a nice change.

It has spent its life in Scotland and has been fairly neglected so has the requisite amount of rust to deal with but not on the bodyshell, just on the working suspension bits, all of which are going in the bin. The engine is sound and goes well but there's a bigger problem...

The drivers door lock is broken. The central locking is, at best, dodgy. So what do you think I did recently? Yup, locked it then left it for a week. And now I can't get into the damn thing. The remote does work (new battery) but isn't talking to the car, obviously.

I've managed to get the bonnet open using the emergency cable (to the tune of the short lived but noisy alarm), so I disconnected the battery to see if I could re-set the discussion between remote and car. No joy. Any clues? (remember I can't use the drivers door lock).

Right now I have some airbag thingys coming to see if I can break in that way. I have a long steel stick with a hook to get hold of the interior door lock so should be able to get it open that way, but that might be optimistic.

I'd be grateful for any input before I get to the stage of breaking something - thought I'm not bothered about replacing a broken window if it comes to it - this car needs some serious tlc before I'm happy.

 

There may be no way of waking the key fob - see this link - https://www.jmgporsche.co.uk/item/234-996-986-alarm-primer

But - there is one thing to try - not sure if its in the doc I linked (been a while since I read it ) but there is a tech bulletin from Porsche about "when you change the fob battery" - summary is, if while changing the battery you press the buttons on the fib then the processor in the key "hangs" - the fix, believe it or not is, insert the battery the wrong way round - leave it for 10 secs or so , then put it back in correctly, without pressing the buttons.

Worth a try before you get "medieval" with the windows.

[Daboy3000]

2 hours ago, Red14 said:

Right now I have some airbag thingys coming to see if I can break in that way. I have a long steel stick with a hook to get hold of the interior door lock so should be able to get it open that way, but that might be optimistic.

I'd be grateful for any input before I get to the stage of breaking something - thought I'm not bothered about replacing a broken window if it comes to it - this car needs some serious tlc before I'm happy.

 

One in the ignition and another to tap the central locking button.  Took about an hour, alarm went off a few times, this was after trying to pull a handle from the inside.  Roof need replacing anyway.

[Boxob]

As per @Daboy3000 solution above you have to get the key into the ignition and turned to wake the system. I had this issue and removed the stitching from the top driver's side of the rear plastic window to create a triangle large enough to pass a steel rod with the key taped to the end. It's obviously not going to work if you have a glass rear window! The other option is to break the driver's side window. Line up a secondhand one to replace it.

This is on a 1998 model.

[Red14]

Thanks folks, noted the tech remedy and will see how that goes.

As for digging in to the ragtop, unfortunately I have the hardtop firmly in place!. I have a couple of tricks left which I'll work through in the next day or two if I have time. 

Actually, I'm quite impressed at how difficult it is to get into the car.

Also need to learn to navigate this forum better, used to other formats but I'll get there.

[80sMatchbox]

Well, not today but fairly recently I collected my '01 Boxster S from Paul Torque Boxster. @TROOPER88.

My clutch had started to slip and so I took it along for him to have a look at. There were a few other issues raised when it was on the ramp so I agreed to get most of them sorted at the same time.

The difference to the car now is night and day. An absolute pleasure to drive. 

Paul was great at updating me and showing me photos of what had been done and other small issues that were discovered.

I'd thoroughly recommend his services.😁

 

I just wish the weather was warmer to fully enjoy it! 

[½cwt]

It was finally dry enough (and not too cold) to replace the front right coffin arm that I picked up FOC from Spyder Performance back in October.  It was picked up as a very slight knock in the suspension assembly on the shake test at the MOT in September, but because the tester knows the car well (and owner) and he couldn't exactly identify which joint, he still passed the car.  (I felt it worst when holding the nut on the top of the ball joint so he was pretty generous...) 

Dean at Spyder was very good and immediately offered a replacement even though I was out side the 2 year warranty (3 years and about 15k miles so an early life failure).  He reported that they are only aware of three failures since they've been making these over the last 10 years.  When I first reported this someone did say that an indy he knows has changed loads of Spyder coffin arms, but if you don't tell the manufacturer they don't know and they can't offer replacements for early life failures or improve the part....  But then does an indy just want to sell another part the cynic might say? 🤔

Edited November 23, 2023 by ½cwt

[kdh]

Very lightweight compared to most of you boys, but today I topped up my aircon myself with a DIY cannister from Amazon, £20.

I paid £65 for Halfords to do it the other day but I think one of the pipes had a leak and thanks to 1/2cwt (hello above), I fixed the leak with some Scotchweld. Bloody brilliant stuff. Time will tell but I hope it holds. Not that I need aircon at the moment, I just don't like things not working.

Edited November 23, 2023 by kdh

[½cwt]

Believe me @kdh I only do the suspension work because it needs doing!  And If I have to pay someone else to do it the car is too expensive to run.  The small jobs are often more pleasurable (easy to do and instant gratification) but I ticked a lot of those off 4 to 5 years ago when I got the car.

[phazed]

Nothing done today.

Yesterday, stripped off front coffin arms as I will replace these with items fitted with Pollybushes. Semi stripped the rear suspension. Can’t remove where the coffin arms bolt to the car as the bolts seem to be seized in the sleeves of the bushes. Hopefully tomorrow will have time to break out the 9 inch angle grinder and get these out. Coffin arms will be replaced with polybushed items.

I seem to be leaning towards Koni replacement suspension with uprated Eibach springs.

Any thoughts on the Konis?
.

[jonogt6]

13 hours ago, phazed said:

Nothing done today.

Yesterday, stripped off front coffin arms as I will replace these with items fitted with Pollybushes. Semi stripped the rear suspension. Can’t remove where the coffin arms bolt to the car as the bolts seem to be seized in the sleeves of the bushes. Hopefully tomorrow will have time to break out the 9 inch angle grinder and get these out. Coffin arms will be replaced with polybushed items.

I seem to be leaning towards Koni replacement suspension with uprated Eibach springs.

Any thoughts on the Konis?
.

The rear coffin arms will need to be removed by sawing through the eccentric bolt that holds them in place. You will need to do this on each side of the arm inside the upright where it bolts through l. I can't think of a way you could do it using an angle grinder, you need a reciprocal saw.

[½cwt]

1 minute ago, jonogt6 said:

The rear coffin arms will need to be removed by sawing through the eccentric bolt that holds them in place. You will need to do this on each side of the arm inside the upright where it bolts through l. I can't think of a way you could do it using an angle grinder, you need a reciprocal saw.

I used a recip, but you should get in with a new thin cutting disc, just don't damage the sub-frame.  The bolts are hardened steel so you need a good blade for a recip, they just blunted a standard blade in my case and a hack saw will take hours.  Bosch Sabre, they may be about £15 but I cut all 4 bolts in about 45 to 60 seconds each and there's still life in the blade.  Replacement bolt from OPC are the cheapest source but are about £10 each.

997 331 217 02 and 997 331 217 03, coffin arm one is 100mm long, the toe link 84mm.  You will likely need two of each as well as new toe links too, but if you want to go to max on camber you will need an adjustable toe link as with factory max camber (or more) there is not enough adjustment to bring the toe geometry in line with the standard toe link.

[phazed]

Good information. I have a 9 inch angle grinder with cutting discs, so that is the way I will go, carefully! I will order new bolts from my pal in the parts centre. Thinking at this stage to introduce maximum camber on the front, but keeping the rest as a fairly standard set up. Not building a race car but just a track focused fun vehicle. Did this with previously owned TVR‘s and more track focused Octávia, which made them very capable on track, but still very usable on the road. 

[½cwt]

1 hour ago, phazed said:

Good information. I have a 9 inch angle grinder with cutting discs, so that is the way I will go, carefully! I will order new bolts from my pal in the parts centre. Thinking at this stage to introduce maximum camber on the front, but keeping the rest as a fairly standard set up. Not building a race car but just a track focused fun vehicle. Did this with previously owned TVR‘s and more track focused Octávia, which made them very capable on track, but still very usable on the road. 

You will be better off with a smaller diameter disc on a 4½" grinder as you will have less margin or error to the alloy sub frame, and that's if you can get close enough, with the larger diameter disc.  IMO recip is best as you can then easily cut a sliver off the end of the bush too (which is alloy so a disc might not like it so much) which gives more of a guide to cut into the bolts with less risk of cutting parts you don't want to

You will still need new rear toe links, as if the coffin arms bolts are seized in the bushes, these will be too so you won't get any adjustment.  Currently you can work to units of 3 figures in the budget for sets of parts, going more focused for track you will quickly get into 4 figures per set of parts, even if you can get a set of coil over dampers and springs for less or similar, the arms etc will cost a lot more.  Basically lots of Porsche tax even if not official Porsche parts from the upper 996 or Porsche Motorsport ranges.  And then you can fit spacers or larger offset wheels, larger brakes and track tyres and, and, and....  Just as I'm sure you know for the TVRs and Skoda.

[phazed]

Yep, agree with all that.

It looks like my 4.5" grinder won't have the full reach to cut through the bolt. Will start with that as it is more accurate and finish off with the 9".

 

Sometimes costs work. 

Bought my 5.5 TVR in a sorry state. Upgraded and made it really beautiful over 8 years. Did a shed full of track and drag days with it. Probably spent about £10K on it. Sold it on for £25K.... How unusual is that!

[½cwt]

6 minutes ago, phazed said:

Yep, agree with all that.

It looks like my 4.5" grinder won't have the full reach to cut through the bolt. Will start with that as it is more accurate and finish off with the 9".

 

Sometimes costs work. 

Bought my 5.5 TVR in a sorry state. Upgraded and made it really beautiful over 8 years. Did a shed full of track and drag days with it. Probably spent about £10K on it. Sold it on for £25K.... How unusual is that!

I think the other way round...  not enough space for 9" to get deep enough...

Hmm... may work in TVR world, but not 986 world, unless you plan to keep it for another decade or so, although there is a hint 986 prices could be rising for fair to good examples but only in steps of £500 or so a year like for like.  I bought mine in Sept 2018 at £4850, I've spent over £3k on must do repairs/refresh (a/c condensers, brake lines, suspension all round, CV boots, hood rear window, broke driver's seat, window regulator to name a few...) and about £2k on optional things like head unit, retro fit cruise, retro fit door and rear speakers plus new head unit, caliper refurb and 18" wheels.  Plus usual annual running costs, service and wear items like brakes and tyres.  Would I get even £6k now?  Not so sure.

 

[Menoporsche]

Other than the weird C Ovid bubble and very limited editions, no car will make a net profit, it’s basically how much you can minimize the loss and/or how much you can enjoy it during ownership. 

[½cwt]

8 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

Other than the weird C Ovid bubble and very limited editions, no car will make a net profit, it’s basically how much you can minimize the loss and/or how much you can enjoy it during ownership. 

Ask @Mattman42...  a slightly special case, but I agree width the above.  Plus my 986 was bought as a hobby to work on and improve so any financial sense has to be offset against that overall benefit to me, much like @phazed buying his for mainly track use I imagine.

[edc]

If you want a cheap way to get extra front negative camber then Dremel out the top mount slot circa 5mm. You need jus lt enough that the top mount won't hit the turret inside. This can get you up to an extra 1 deg negative camber. 

[½cwt]

1 hour ago, edc said:

If you want a cheap way to get extra front negative camber then Dremel out the top mount slot circa 5mm. You need jus lt enough that the top mount won't hit the turret inside. This can get you up to an extra 1 deg negative camber. 

On the front...

[phazed]

Makes sense. I will be looking at this.

[phazed]

The TVR was a special case. Well, known in the Pistonheads fraternity.

Quickest na RV8 TVR on the 1/4 mile leader board, (11.83 seconds).

400 bhp and 450 ft lb torque.

One day I’ll post pictures!

[edc]

2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

On the front...

I did write front. It wouldn't work on the rear anyway as the adjustment isn't there and even if it was the design of the top mount wouldn't work. 

[½cwt]

1 hour ago, edc said:

I did write front. It wouldn't work on the rear anyway as the adjustment isn't there and even if it was the design of the top mount wouldn't work. 

Oops!  Sorry.  

[tonyplymouth]

MOTed my 1997 986 2.5 TIP 83,000 miles today.  Pass with no advisories.  Very pleased and now set for another year of fun driving.

[½cwt]

Went through 25,000 miles in my ownership since September 2018.   Car's now on 115,000 miles since new in May 2000.