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What have YOU done to your 986 today ?


Mike G

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4 hours ago, phazed said:

I have recently come to the conclusion that this car is a bit like triggers broom!

A few of us have cars like that - you’re in good company 🤪

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20 hours ago, phazed said:

At least the horns work!

Horns dont seem to work on some of mine.  You are not supposed to toot at young ladies now anyway.  I think its only really acceptable to toot at plus sized work men at the side of the road.

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Went to the garage today and was reminded I still have these wrapped up at the back which I bought from a mate over 2 years ago so I could use them for the track thinking car would be ready within 12 months. 

Fast forward to today and its almost ready now... wondering if I will need to put some form of rubber restorer on the tyres! 

Freshly powder coated just before I got them off him. And has a set of used federal track rubber on. 

Thinking I might put them on for a bit to see how they look in comparison to the rims I have on at the moment. 

ScnqeoF.jpg

VQ7kb8r.jpg

 

Edited by fizz
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I assume you’re talking about the federal RSR 595 tires. I used to run these as a more budget version of the.Toyo R888’s. Not a bad tire but they must’ve finished manufacturing them at least six years ago if I remember correctly. Check the dates on them but even if they are that old, I’m sure they will be suitable to get the car on track until at some point you upgrade. 
personally, I run the Toyo R888’s all the time. A great Tyre.

Out of interest, I have managed about six Track Days with these tires, and can probably squeeze another couple out of them if it isn’t wet.

Bloody Siri, spelling, tires wrong!

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Struggled and removed front suspension struts complete with hubs as it was impossible to release the suspension legs from the hubs due to them being the original 21/22-year-old suspension. Had a game removing suspension legs from the hubs but luckily having a press for the pinch bolts made life easier.

Did a bit of trolling on the web regarding suspension. Could well be going for a set of Konis, but still have to make a phone call to Gaz.

I don’t know how you guys get on working from Axel stands and having minimal tools. This was never my trade, but always a hobby!  I’m sure my wife thinks I’m a little mad.

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1 hour ago, phazed said:

Struggled and removed front suspension struts complete with hubs as it was impossible to release the suspension legs from the hubs due to them being the original 21/22-year-old suspension. Had a game removing suspension legs from the hubs but luckily having a press for the pinch bolts made life easier.

Did a bit of trolling on the web regarding suspension. Could well be going for a set of Konis, but still have to make a phone call to Gaz.

I don’t know how you guys get on working from Axel stands and having minimal tools. This was never my trade, but always a hobby!  I’m sure my wife thinks I’m a little mad.

Pinch Bolts - Heat, heat, heat is your friend.

Axle stands is not the easiest but, from some of us, the only way of working on these cars...

Edited by ½cwt
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2 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Pinch Bolts - Heat, heat, heat is your friend.

Axle stands is not the easiest but, from some of us, the only way of working on these cars...

Took the legs off complete and used an hydraulic press to push out the pinch bolts, easy. 
These tools are really cheap believe me. It’s having the space for everything that is most peeps problem.

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13 hours ago, phazed said:

I run the Toyo R888’s all the time. A great Tyre.

Out of interest, I have managed about six Track Days with these tires

Do you worry about the oiling system at all?

I am thinking of trying something grippier for track days.

Finished the FR wheel bearing today. Hard work. Might take a break before doing the other side.

 

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6 hours ago, 986T8 said:

Do you worry about the oiling system at all?

I am thinking of trying something grippier for track days.

Finished the FR wheel bearing today. Hard work. Might take a break before doing the other side.

 

These engines are sort of dry sump anyway due to the cylinder layout and there is a baffle already fitted (996 107 243 51) shown in green:

bP3pEnG.gif 

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There is a lot of talk about possible problems with oiling when using sticky tyres on Track Days. Up to now my car has been completely standard, (my 987.1) apart from sticky track tyres and competition brake pads.

I drive my car fairly flat out but I’m aware that there could be oil pick up problems due to the nature of the pick up and sump design. To alleviate this so far, I keep the engine revs lower on long corners to give the oil that is generated at higher revs and ends in the cylinder heads a chance to be pumped back to the sump. Not ideal, but never a problem so far. 

Of course my 986S which I am working on at the moment will be modified to an extent and one of those modifications will be to fit an extended baffled sump.

If you are considering using yours on track with sticky tyres, just be aware and drive accordingly. From memory, it is long left handers that can leave the pick up exposed to sucking in air.

I have noticed in the last two or three years, there are a lot more Boxsters and Caymens on track, none that I have spoken to have had baffled sumps fitted!

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As described above - a long left-handed bend will mean the oil pools in a cylinder head. There is only one cylinder head scavenge pump - on the opposite side of the engine. This is why it doesn’t happen on right handers - as the oil is being pumped back into the sump.

996 has the same but opposite handed risk albeit I’ve seen much less on that.

Baffles help and there are a range of options.  Bear in mind that if they’re gated and been developed for 99x they may not be suitable for 98x as the engine installation is reversed.

Deep sumps provide a greater volume  oil around the (extended) pickup which mitigates the problem described above. This is the route I have taken:

https://lnengineering.com/products/brs-parts-and-upgrades/engine/2qt-deep-sump-oil-pan-kit-inc-pickup-tube-extension-windage-tray-x51-baffle.html

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49 minutes ago, map said:

As described above - a long left-handed bend will mean the oil pools in a cylinder head. There is only one cylinder head scavenge pump - on the opposite side of the engine. This is why it doesn’t happen on right handers - as the oil is being pumped back into the sump.

996 has the same but opposite handed risk albeit I’ve seen much less on that.

Baffles help and there are a range of options.  Bear in mind that if they’re gated and been developed for 99x they may not be suitable for 98x as the engine installation is reversed.

Deep sumps provide a greater volume  oil around the (extended) pickup which mitigates the problem described above. This is the route I have taken:

https://lnengineering.com/products/brs-parts-and-upgrades/engine/2qt-deep-sump-oil-pan-kit-inc-pickup-tube-extension-windage-tray-x51-baffle.html


$949!

 

maybe I could make a baffled assembly using strips of Mecano and extend the sump using an old ice cream container…

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31 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

Does a deep sump imply reduced ground clearance? Or is the "deep" internal but not external, as it were?

Seriously !!???!!

YES, reduced clearance as moving the rotating assemblies is much more difficult than adding a CNC'd spacer to the sump.

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G'day fellow forum members, I hope you can assist with my project car. From what I've read so far it looks like I'm in the right place.

Newbie to the forum, but not to Porsche. Had 2 x boxsters previously, 1 manual, 1 tip and then 9114S. Every one a money pit!

Despite the history I recently decided to purchase a Boxster 986, it's a 2002 2.7 manual and it's a bit of a dog. Rose tints were firmly on when I got it but hey, I like a challenge and I'm really up for it. At least it has a hard top which is a nice change.

It has spent its life in Scotland and has been fairly neglected so has the requisite amount of rust to deal with but not on the bodyshell, just on the working suspension bits, all of which are going in the bin. The engine is sound and goes well but there's a bigger problem...

The drivers door lock is broken. The central locking is, at best, dodgy. So what do you think I did recently? Yup, locked it then left it for a week. And now I can't get into the damn thing. The remote does work (new battery) but isn't talking to the car, obviously.

I've managed to get the bonnet open using the emergency cable (to the tune of the short lived but noisy alarm), so I disconnected the battery to see if I could re-set the discussion between remote and car. No joy. Any clues? (remember I can't use the drivers door lock).

Right now I have some airbag thingys coming to see if I can break in that way. I have a long steel stick with a hook to get hold of the interior door lock so should be able to get it open that way, but that might be optimistic.

I'd be grateful for any input before I get to the stage of breaking something - thought I'm not bothered about replacing a broken window if it comes to it - this car needs some serious tlc before I'm happy.

 

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33 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

Welcome! I suggest you paste that into a new thread for yourself in Running Reports, as there are already several answers to the questions you've raised, and better not to bury them in this thread.

Good idea. Just to add at this early stage, most cars when locked, their internal handles become inoperative which won’t help you!

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My 2003 986 goes into sleep mode if left for a week. This means that the fob will not power any functions. I then have to put the key into the drivers lock, turn it to the front and then to the back. Remove the key and the fob functions are re-energised and work as before. Hopefully your door lock still allows this and you can open the  doors as before! Good luck

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