M12MTR Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 Howdy all. Bit of a daft one. Wanting to fully clean the alloy wheel barrels and ceramic coat my wheels. Jacked the car up and the wheel is properly stuck on the hub. Apart from the obvious (lump hammer - don't fancy this tbh) is there another way to release the wheel? ie. WD40 in lug holes to free up from hub face). Read that can loosen wheel nuts and roll car forward/ backwards to 'crack' the seal? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 Rubber mallet from the inside, but for goodness sake get something to protect it or another person to support it while you whack it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenman986s Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 Preferably on axle stands while you whack it.. just don't ask how I figured that one out 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATM Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 I have this on my 981. Generally the rears are worse for me. Just in case you didn't know the cause. If you pop off the tiny centre cap there are 3 prongs which locate the wheel centrally. It is these which get stuck or sticky. I toyed with the idea of adding some lube here but never did, not yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattman42 Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 Kick it on the outside edge, may take a couple of go's, but will free it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iborguk Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 Loosen the wheel nuts a bit with the wheel on the ground. Jack up that corner and then lower the jack. Should be enough to break the seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gee Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 Mallet/kick as above and a good smear of copper grease or similar should ensure it doesn't stick again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bally4563 Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 Why oh why! Did front brakes this morning on a friends Audi A6 bothe wheels seized solid two bolts in slightly backed off upp and down the drive braking, did the job wheels removed no evidence of anti seize paste don’t people know ally and steel are Ned mates, just ridiculous poor servicing in its past life … won’t happen again fortunately for whom ever the next time wheels have got to come off…. Don’t these mechanics get properly trained these days? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATM Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 35 minutes ago, bally4563 said: Why oh why! Did front brakes this morning on a friends Audi A6 bothe wheels seized solid two bolts in slightly backed off upp and down the drive braking, did the job wheels removed no evidence of anti seize paste don’t people know ally and steel are Ned mates, just ridiculous poor servicing in its past life … won’t happen again fortunately for whom ever the next time wheels have got to come off…. Don’t these mechanics get properly trained these days? I've seen some comments from people who believe greasing stuff like wheel nuts is bad practice. They believe it makes them less able to hold the wheels on. I'm not saying I agree. I'm just saying people think greasing wheels and bolts is dangerous. And I can kind of understand why they might think that. The manufacturers don't issue their cars like that so these people think it must be for a reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonshine Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 (edited) 9 hours ago, ATM said: I've seen some comments from people who believe greasing stuff like wheel nuts is bad practice. They believe it makes them less able to hold the wheels on. I'm not saying I agree. I'm just saying people think greasing wheels and bolts is dangerous. And I can kind of understand why they might think that. The manufacturers don't issue their cars like that so these people think it must be for a reason. Greasing wheel nuts IS bad practice as it can lead to overtorquing of the bolt. The torque specs of wheels studs are usually dry (as opposed to lubricated) torques. If you lubricate a thread, it will be tighter for a given torque than a dry thread and can damage the threads. Im probably not stating it clearly, but you might get another ½ turn on a lubricated bolt before you achieve the correct torque, compared to tightening a dry bolt. Greasing the mating surface of a wheel to the hub is good practice Edited February 26 by moonshine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bally4563 Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 The last comment was what I was advocating 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patt Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 Stand with your back to the car and hit the top of the wheel with your heel - works every time for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iborguk Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 (edited) 1 hour ago, moonshine said: Greasing wheel nuts IS bad practice as it can lead to overtorquing of the bolt. Porsche wheel nuts (when you buy 'em) are coated in Optimol Paste TA (referred to as Optimoly TA in Porsche docs) Here's a partial quote from a 2012, 987 doc re wheel nuts. "Apply a light coating of Optimoly TA (aluminium paste) to the thread, shank and under the head" 997.2 version of the doc linked and a pic of what I keep in the garage. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwip1_fA2ciEAxXaXUEAHSguCmcQFnoECBIQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Frennlist.com%2Fforums%2Fattachments%2F997-forum%2F1316380d1598447728-suspension-components-torque-specs-wm-4001tw-997-2-torques.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2Bj5gOorDiblzezI1JFLGW&opi=89978449 Edited February 26 by iborguk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iborguk Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 2 minutes ago, Patt said: Stand with your back to the car and hit the top of the wheel with your heel - works every time for me. Like that, simpler than what I suggested. Occam's razor rules apply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patt Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 if you try to kick it any other way - never has the same effect. Has to be the heel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iborguk Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 1 minute ago, Patt said: if you try to kick it any other way - never has the same effect. Has to be the heel. Flat shoes and not stilettos ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patt Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 Shhh !! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATM Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 With my really stuck wheels all that worked is the Rubber Mallet from behind. Don't keep hammering the same spot. You need to switch it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonshine Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 I usually use a big boot, or if I have a spare wheel handy(e.g. A winter wheel and tyre) use that to boink the stuck wheel alternating at 3 and 9 o'clock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andygo Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 Last resort - loosen the wheel nuts slightly and drive gently. Try to keep the speed below 100mph. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M12MTR Posted February 26 Author Report Share Posted February 26 25 minutes ago, andygo said: Last resort - loosen the wheel nuts slightly and drive gently. Try to keep the speed below 100mph. Ok will try this method. Will 90mph be OK? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike597 Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 It just needs a gentle tap with your hairdryer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M12MTR Posted February 26 Author Report Share Posted February 26 32 minutes ago, mike597 said: It just needs a gentle tap with your hairdryer With it switched on or off you think? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iborguk Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 Also if the Porsche wheel crest isn't lined up with the tyre valve and locking wheel nut then that wheel is never, ever coming off. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lonewolfgjp Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 I have this problem daily and tend to whack them with the heel of my boot. It normally works 8-10 times, then it is the rubber mallet of that fails then it is the mechanics copper hammer on the inside with a piece of wood to protect the rim. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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