red rocket

1 minute ago, BBB said:

I’ve just received my B4s for the front and they’re the correct model number according to Bilstein’s catalogue. I don’t suppose you measured the rod length did you @red rocket? I’m trying to anticipate problems before I start taking things apart.

Everything except the piston length measured the same as the ones removed from the car. The piston length was approx 4cm shorter and couldn't  be extended manually.

11 hours ago, lawrencequinn said:

How old minimum for the Classic Register. Thanks. 

9 hours ago, Bayernlarge said:

I’m not sure. I didn’t think 987s qualified, but thought I’d give it a go. I called my local OPC, they asked for the VIN and that was that.

Terms state 986 Boxster and 911 up to 2005 so maybe they thought yours was a 911?! 

4 minutes ago, myfirstboxster said:

Something like this 

Yep, ordered one.

26 minutes ago, AMacdonald said:

It's definitely Triple-square (also known as Spline) and it looks like the "security" type with a hole in the middle too

4 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Spline drive I believe.

Thanks both. Maybe it's an optical illusion, especially as it's not possible to get close up via the wheel well, but it looked to me like the 'star' was 'proud' rather than being recessed, which was confusing me. I've got splines but not with the hole so looks like i'll have to invest.

In preparation for changing the gearbox oil, and not wanting to remove stuff under the car yet, I took the rear wheel off to get a look at the filler plug and make sure I have the correct tools. Can anyone tell me for sure what this requires? It's definitely not a 17mm hex as suggested in various forums/posts! It looks like a sort of inverted torx and I have seen a post or a video elsewhere which stated 10mm torx/triple square (think it was from the US). I've tried reaching in with a 10mm torx socket on an extension bar but can't quite get a feel for whether it's seating properly. Probably need to zoom to see it properly.

1 hour ago, Pacoryan said:

Realised I seem to have lost the locking wheel nut key

Have you checked the glove box? That's the best place to keep it if you've followed advice here.

13 hours ago, zcacogp said:

I've called Bilstein and asked about rebuilding the standard PASM shocks and they say that this is not possible and new ones are the only option. These seem to be between £400 and £550 per corner from Autodoc so we'd be looking at adding around £2k to the job cost on parts alone,

In case it helps Design911 are actually (and amazingly) the cheapest source of B4s. Bought standard shocks from them recently. Just looked and a set of front PASM are approx £675 and a full set £1250.

37 minutes ago, Nick_McUK said:

There don’t seem to be many for sale on eBay either. 

I used ebay as a guide when i sold mine. As with everything prices on there fluctuate with supply and demand. They were relatively low when i moved mine on because there were several available but i've seen much higher prices at other times.  If you're not desperate try offering it for what you feel it's worth and see what happens. Take into account what after market exhausts cost for comparison.

9 hours ago, Boxstercol said:

How easy is it to remove the vents, mine seem stuck firm.

Almost looks like they’ll break before releasing!

I know the feeling, but it's not actually very difficult - warm them up with a hairdryer or heat gun beforehand. There are videos on Youtube - search 987 vent.

On 6/1/2021 at 3:43 PM, Roger C said:

Just doing a service on our 2.7 before a little road trip in a few weeks and looking at air filters it seems a OE spec paper element Mahle filter is around 50 quid, thats after market territory so do I stick with OE or go after market....opinions please?

Rog.

Mahle is £25.99 on CP4L; cheaper than Eurocarparts.

8 minutes ago, siztenboots said:

I have downloaded the catalog and have the parts number I need to refurb the wheel level sensor on my litronics.

 

But in general , where can you source parts and get the stock info and prices?

For oem type parts, as opposed to generic stuff like brake discs, pads etc., it's usually best to contact your nearest OPC's parts dept. They are likely to be cheapest, especially if you are a PCGB member and get the 10% discount (worth asking even if not a member) and will usually post things out with no delivery charge. You can compare prices from suppliers such as Design911, Frazerpart or Type911 but bear in mind they have to add their overheads, profit etc.

33 minutes ago, Sword said:

Hi All,

I have removed all the front suspension as part of a renewal process and found I have the expected coolant leak at the front of my 987box

I have read that lowering the subframe helps make replacement of the relevant pipes easier. 

I note that the steering rack is mounted to the subframe so could someone advise if I need to disconnect the steering rack when lowering or can it be left in place whilst I pull out the pipe work? 

Any input gratefully received. Thanks

 

Some good info here  https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=960462  And if you pm me your e mail address i have a great step by step PDF with photos which I got from another member.

13 minutes ago, Witterz said:

Does anyone else own a car with this light grey hood (not sure of its official colour name or code) and advise please ? many thanks 

I have a Stone Grey hood (and interior) on my Atlas Grey car and i think the two colours work very well together. Your hood looks alot lighter, i think, though i suppose it could be due to the contrast with the Blue. Personal view but don't think Grey/Blue combo works.

10 minutes ago, thestig84 said:

Hello

I have been on here for a bit soaking up all the excellent info while fixing up my 987 lockdown project. Thanks for the help and hello!

Car is getting there and on the road now. Since getting it on the road I have noticed the cruise doesnt work. So far:

New used stalk - no help

Using icarsoft porv1.0 - Clutch and brake switch seem to work ok.  The DME data has shown (with both stalks) functions stays stuck on "not actuated" for accel and decel but I can get readiness to show on/off.  Only other note is a c140 code for the cluster if thats applicable!? 

The green dash cruise light comes on with acc ignition position but never again.

Any ideas or suggestions would be really great to hear. I sort of feel like its lost its programming or something, could that be possible?

Thanks for reading

Adam

Sounds like one for @Richard Hamilton.

Fixed a grating noise i've had for a while from driver's side rear wheel. Though it might be the disc rubbing on the backing plate or a stone stuck between them but, having removed the disc, it turned out to be one of the handbrake shoes rubbing. Backed the shoes off a bit and all good now. 

Also fitted a new Yuasa YBX3110 battery as i had problems with the previous Exide and my CTEK was showing an error for it being sulphated.

2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Drove in the New Forest. Roads full of tourists, cyclists, horses and even donkeys.... Still it I'm not at work and it is a holiday!

Hang around till Sunday and it'll be wall to wall Porsches!

2 hours ago, Wigs said:

Many thanks👍

As Meno says, get plastic; you just found out the reason why. NB before you remove the old caps mark the position with a piece of tape so you can screw the new ones on to exactly same spot. That way you won't have alignment issues. And there should be a tool in the jit in the frunk - metal rod with flat end- which is used to help push/lever the caps onto the metal ball joint. 

40 minutes ago, beaks said:

oil only cost me just shy of £30 and the job was pretty easy all things considered.

I bought a cheap electric oil transfer pump from Amazon which was pretty handy for the job.

Which oil did you go for and do you have a link for the pump pls?

Definitely looks like mould. You can check by trying to wipe away with a finger...if it wipes off it's mould. If so you need something to kill it. Milton is probably a good choice or alternatively a straightforward fungicidal wash from B&Q ......have used on a light coloured kitchen blind with no bleaching, discolouration or other deteimental effect.

Disovered yesterday that the replacement battery i received virtually a year ago after a warranty claim appears to have gone duff. Exactly the same issue as last time; CTEK throws a red light and testing with a multimeter shows a voltage below 12. Looks like another call to Tayna.

Nevertheless i was able to start the car and take it for a short test drive after completing my front suspension refresh. Tracking is obviously slightly off but nevertheless the front end really feels alot tighter and now i have a point of comparison i can see that it was quite 'crashy' before. 

Now need a rest before i consider whether to refesh the rear.

10 hours ago, zcacogp said:

Last three digits of the cap P/ N seem to be 044. Not sure whether that makes it an 01 or an 04.

Design911 and Type911 show latest as 99610644704

3 hours ago, zcacogp said:

Andygo, 

I've quoted your post as it's a good'un - thanks. I had a look in the 'funnel thingy' last night and it does look quite suspiciously like there has been coolant leaking in there, and a close inspection of the back of the blue cap suggests that there may be coolant outside of the ring seal as well. Annoyingly the seal isn't a regular O-ring, rather a rectangular cross-section thing (I have no idea why) so it's not easy to replace. I therefore carefully cut a ring out of card to put in the cap behind it to bring it forward a little and smeared some silicone grease on it as well, both of which should help it seal. 

The car isn't due to be driven for a few days yet but I'll update this thread with any progress. 

Thanks again for your help. 

Check the part no on the filler cap. If you have one ending 01 it's worth getting the updated 04. Mine dumped quite a  large amount of coolant and update cap solved the issue. It's a well known problem.

Fought with the car yet again but in the end managed to fit front coffin arms, tuning forks and dampers etc plus joined everything up to the hub carriers. Got to adjust the position of the top mounts tomorrow (if i can) as the marks i made on the nuts/body are not lining up. Then torque everything up. That will just leave me to refit calipers, brake shields, new discs and pads. Then clean, treat with Dressle and refit the arch liners, undertray, wheels and test drive. 

6 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Polyurethane - the outer skin of the front and rear bumpers are made from it on most cars.  You do need to know that one to get it!

I'd never heard of a PU till i bought a Porsche!

'Nutter Button'.....love it! Very expressive! 🤣