red rocket

1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

For sure feeding lightly damaged or cracked areas is useful and I have seen the positive results of that on the seats in my own car.  However if your leather is in good condition there is little point in spending lots of money on special leather feeding products that can't penetrate the coatings on the leather...

Correct.

4 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Placebo?  A couple of upholsterers I speak to say most mass market modern car leather is sealed with anti fade and UV filters and colouring so the feeds like this make no difference, they just need regular cleaning.  Bentley, RR etc at the top end of the market it would make a difference.

Whilst it's true that modern upholstery leather is 'coated' for durability, protection (e.g. dye transfer from jeans) and colour fastness to light and liquids (and often to hide the cr*p substrate beneath) leather does dry and of course our cars' interiors are subject to more sun than otheres. The surface finish cracks over time (most 986 and 987 seat bolsters will show this) so there is some merit in 'feeding' those areas as the fats used will penetrate and lubricate the leather fibres where the surface is damaged. This will help to maintain softness and durability. 

On 7/12/2021 at 9:31 PM, Goody1664 said:

Yeah, im just not sure if spraying them silver will be overkill? 
 

Do a search for 'centre console' and you should bring up a range of threads, some of which also have pics of other parts which have been colour coded. I think @detail1 did his console in silver and maybe some other bits - you could look for his thread.

4 minutes ago, Davey P said:

Looking at their other stock, they're not shy with their prices, are they

Porsche tax!

Wow! Talk about a premium for low mileage! Crazy.

Did my planned transmission oil change. Put the front up on ramps and the rear on stands. 

Both plugs came out easily. Used Millers TRX Synth and a hand pump off ebay which fitted onto the 'bottles'. Took the opportunity to clean up the aluminium tray. Before:

After:

Also cleaned up the diagonal braces whilst I was under the car.

Everything went fine UNTIL the very last bolt, at the front end of one of the diagonal braces, next to the jacking point, which sheared off whilst i was torquing it up! B*st*rd! 

Now, as per separate thread, trying to figure out what to do. Either use an extractor IF i can jack the car high enough to allow me to see the remaining bolt and get a drill on it. If not i'll have to ask my local indy for help but i know they are snowed under.

49 minutes ago, marcusjd said:

Hello. I'm gathering components for a front end refresh using mainly Spyder Performance parts. (Quality of delivered parts looks good, prices great...)

Can anyone please advise on where to purchase all new bolts from..? I have a list i have taken from Design 9111's exploded diagrams.. 

I'm now over 40 quid for 3 sets of Hex Hd bolts and a couple of nuts..:

I can imagine they are HT Stl, Bright Zinc (BZP) plated. They are 1.5Pitch (fine) and are not in my usual 'go to' Suppliers such as RS Components...

Any ideas or recommendations would be greatly accepted.

Cheers

Does the above include VAT and delivery? Phone your nearest OPC and check their prices, which should be cheaper than D911. I bought mine from PC Bournemouth when i did my suspension recently and (as usual) they posted for free.

2 minutes ago, charlieboy2608 said:

I'm about to place an order when I find the info from this post but when you work through the ordering process the only price added is "Safe order @ £3.95"

But customs charges could presumably be added on arrival in the UK and before delivery.

Am i right in thinking Autodoc parts are shipped from abroad and therefore likely to incur import charges?

11 hours ago, moospeed said:

De-valued it by another 200 miles whilst the roads are clear during the football.

Got dark and rainy so I was coming home, was coming home...

Can't upload picture for some reason (again with this hateful imgur nonsense), maybe the link will work.

http://imgur.com/a/QWsXUDf.jpg

Nice pic. Could be one for the calendar! 

9 hours ago, StephenM said:

Just noticed I think you have a 5 speed, mine is the 6 speed box is there much difference?

From what i've read it's possible the plugs are different size/fittings. And pretty sure the 6 speed takes more oil (2.8 litres compared to 2.25 I think).

1 hour ago, StephenM said:

@red rocket thanks for this information, can you tell me please are there any crush washers that need replacing when you change the gearbox oil please.  I read somewhere there are not but wanted to check please?

Haven't done mine yet but spoke to OPC as I was expecting to need to buy new filler and drain plugs. There are no washers and they also told me they would not normally renew the plugs so unless I screw something up I shall reuse what's there. Hopefully doing mine in a couple of days.

1 hour ago, Boxstercol said:

Pics please?

 

1 hour ago, Goody1664 said:

Thanks Red, very useful information. Noted regarding removing the rubberised surface- clearly it’s all in the prep. For the standard base coat did you use the same colour code as the car (in my case Arctic silver)? 

Yes, did mine in Atlas Grey.

11 hours ago, Goody1664 said:

Good evening everyone, I’m a recent newbie with a 2004 986 in arctic silver with metropole blue Interior. I’m exploring options to spray the centre console silver, and would like to know if anyone has recommendations for what paint to use? Would a standard can of Arctic silver paint suffice, or would i need specific vinyl spray?

If the 986 is anything like the 987 then the most important thing, as suggested above, is to completely remove the rubberised coating. I used acetone based nail varnish remover (cheap from Boits/Superdrug) and Scotch type pads worked best. Do a search for centre console and you'll find my posts and others. I used a high build primer to cater for any remaining minor abrasions, standard base coat then I went for Satin Lacquer as i didn't want a high shine. Some good videos on Youtube including this one 

He also has another one about painting interior plastics on his Customspraymods channel.

Seeing as you're in Devon you could come and join the Exmoor & Dartmorr run next weekend if you want to see how mine turned out.

"I love you more than I love the Porsche". Yeah, right! 

3 hours ago, andygo said:

Top effort!

 

One question, when lowering the subframe, with the rack bolted to the x-member, what happens to the steering column please?

 

Oh, another question, what reciprocating saw do you have?

 

Thanks

Check out this thread - one of the posts has a PDF with instructions and pics https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=960462&mpage=2

I used a basic Screwfix saw with the Bosch blades mentioned by 1/2 cwt.  https://www.screwfix.com/p/mac-allister-msrs850-850w-electric-reciprocating-saw-220-240v/625FX?tc=AA1&ds_kid=92700055256569560&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2NWm_bjO8QIVw-3tCh173wrOEAQYASABEgI9dfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

10 minutes ago, zcacogp said:

what is it about the coffin arms that seizes?)

Wait and see! Just make sure you have a reciprocating saw and some decent blades handy!

39 minutes ago, BBB said:

In anticipation of problems, can you use any bolt type for the coffin arms/subframe or do people use OEM?

I bought new bolts for coffin arms and tuning forks from OPC. Not expensive.

12 minutes ago, BBB said:

The left side is clamped to my bench, and there's a hinge there so the long, square section steel can pivot down to the right. I sat on the right hand side end, my wife in the middle on the dust sheets and my daughter stood directly over the shock. Enough thread came through and on with the nut. Phew!

Very Heath Robinson but well done! Have you compared the length now with the ones off the car?

4 minutes ago, BBB said:

Do you think it's just that the damper rod needs to be pulled out of the body and this happens when the strut is fully assembled?

Yes. But it seems impossible to pull the rod out. It took alot of force (2 people)and heavy duty compressors to get the springs and top mounts on.  Everything's fine now. Car was MoT'd last week and I did alot of driving last weekend 

6 minutes ago, BBB said:

You can see that the shortness of the damper rod is a problem. Other people seem to be almost able to fit the top nut by a tiny compression of the spring. I've tried and tried but I can't compress the spring enough with my spring compressors. I'm stuck now...

Sadly you've hit exactly the problem I had. Really don't understand what's changed. You'll probably need a garage with some heavy duty kit to sort it for you. If they can get the spring on it should pull the damper to correct length when compressors are removed.

16 minutes ago, Charley said:

What can I expect to pay on average for crossover pipes,fitted on 2005 2.7 boxster

Do a search for 'crossover' and you'll find various threads. Here's one with suggested prices around £850-900 but one member got his done for around £400

Probably depends on precisely what is done. Best to get a quote from a decent indy or look to do it yourself - plenty of info here and online including Youtube. Parts are cheapest direct from OPC, especially if you have PCGB 10% discount.

11 hours ago, Gramps said:

PlastiDipped the mudguards

Interesting idea. I've got some Matt Black and Satin lacquer in the garage; might give them a try. I use Dressle on the liners which brings them up nicely.

2 minutes ago, BBB said:

Yeh, I saw that from the pictures above, but was hoping you had an absolute measurement of your B4 so I can compare the length to mine before I start the strip down.

No, sorry.