fizz

45 minutes ago, AndyM001 said:

Not today, but yesterday I cleaned the roof and then treated it with 2 coats of Fabsil Gold, seems to have done the trick.

 

Just wait till it starts to run onto your windscreen and then dry up leaving hard to remove water marks!  

Also due to the rain and it running onto my new blades the right side has started to bounce on its way back down due to friction. 😛 

2 hours ago, Minispeed77 said:

Hope you don’t mind me reviving.

A quick one on the above - did you get this sorted?

Dont mind at all mate..  

I didnt bother with messing with it in the end as it's not dripping and going by the way it looked the mechanic wasnt too concerned with it but i thought id ask on here just in case anyone else had dealt with it. (also had other higher things on the 'to do' list at the time)

Sorry to hear yours is getting worse. Please let us know how you get on with it as im sure others like myself would find it useful and good luck! 
 

Gave it a good ole thrashing with some likeminded members on here...

Can you download other manufacturers into the device? 

6 hours ago, 944GS said:

I’ve been waiting nearly 2 weeks on a response about the Scottish zones as my cars V5 shows NOx is 0.004 so last night I thought I’d try making an enquiry on the English CAZ site since all but Birmingham and Bristol were already showing as no charge.

I didn’t bother with the Certificate of Conformity, just sent a note of the NOx value and a copy of my V5, they’ve already replied to confirm they agree and I’m now showing as no charge on all the English zones and more importantly for me this has also fixed the Scottish site, although I rarely feel the need to drive in cities it’s nice to know the car is no longer worthless to me or a future owner who may want to do so!

Thanks to all for the really helpful advice.

Amazing result and yeah that's what I thought would be the case that they use the same Database for the v5 details. 

The fact the English CAZ got back to you ASAP and it's sorted the Scottish system out too is a win. 

12 minutes ago, RalphyBMW said:

Couple of points to note - if your AC still works, there will be refrigerant in the system, this should be removed before undoing any connections.

Totally dead... the ac pump engages as the speed of the fan changes when the button is pressed but zero cooling air. 

When I did get it recharged before it lasted for about 3 to 4 months or so. I'm presuming that would indicate a leak and going by the state of my condensors I'd get them changed first. 

14 minutes ago, RalphyBMW said:

The gas travels through the blades, the fins just to increase surface area.

Pretty much what I thought. 👍

15 minutes ago, RalphyBMW said:

The factory condensers have plastic trims top & bottom, aftermarket don’t have the holes for these.

Yup I saw them when cleaning out the rads.ĺ

16 minutes ago, RalphyBMW said:

Some say you should replace the dessicator too - I’m going to this time.

What's the dessicator? 

Since we are on the topic of AC condensers... having had my bumper off couple of weeks back this was the state of mine. 

So I'm still learning this home DIY mechanic stuff so time for a silly question.

The fins I understand help to increase surface area to help the heat transfer out? 

The fins are buggered on mine but my question is where does the gas/fluid travel through the rad? Does it go through the horizontal flat strips in between the fins or just round the outer frame of it? 

As my AC is dead and I presume is fully leaked out after the last recharge I did over a year ago, is the replacement a simple swap over I can do myself? 

5 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Double check with Autodoc for the Koni Special Active shocks on a high discount day on their app.

When I did mine 3 year ago parts were about £1400 (everything except rear springs) and it took me a lot of hours once seized bolts in drop links and rear arms were dealt with. £100 per hour, 10 hours might be pushing it even for a pro in a well equipped workshop and then tracking it too.

My parts came to £1650 or there abouts and then my local garage which my friend actually owns charged me £550 for the labour but im sure he did some mates rates. 

@BenM If you just want ease of getting all your parts from one place like sypyder then yes that £1k package makes sense but if you buy the parts separately from Autodoc/design911/spyder etc then it works out cheaper as per my spreadsheet which ive just cleaned up. 

suspension list - Google Sheets

1 hour ago, Nitro V8 said:

Hi

    I bought this one and stuck to the windscreen 6 months ago using the suction cup. It is still on, even in this heat!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Beikell-Adjustable-Holder-Cradle-Release-Black/dp/B0792Z94FF?pd_rd_w=HaIpO&content-id=amzn1.sym.e4f17dd8-9383-42c6-acc3-c75af35f1776&pf_rd_p=e4f17dd8-9383-42c6-acc3-c75af35f1776&pf_rd_r=P222BB7ZEZG3EGDNXFWE&pd_rd_wg=ZJh2o&pd_rd_r=24355b93-39fb-43e8-84fa-2f0c47df795a&pd_rd_i=B0792Z94FF&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_32_t

I've got one of those in the civic and its very good. Where in the boxster you placed it? Right side of the windscreen? 

As much as i fancy getting one that sits in the air vents, i have actually found the windscreen mounted ones good for recording video whilst driving on the mobile. 

10 minutes ago, greenman986s said:

Your pocket?

hard to use it for sat nav there... 😛 

36 minutes ago, Everywhen said:

Gearbox oil change - can’t notice any difference

i plan to do mine at some point as a lot of owners have seen a difference but i reckon i'll be the same as you. lol

9 minutes ago, Gramps said:

Glad you got in there 1st, they don't hang around long at that price, and like you say you can flog it for the same later. Win Win 👍

Gotta love this forum to help spend other peoples monies!  

erm... ive kinda bought it thanks to your heads up as ive been looking for one for a while.  

So spending more monies on the car again but at least i can get my monies back on this if i sell it again.  

2 minutes ago, Winster said:

Put new tuning forks from Spyder Performance on the rear to hopefully get rid of my low speed clonking.  It didn't resolve it so back to the drawing board.  Coffin arms are good and were done just before I got the car 18 months ago.  Now has new rear tuning forks and I have replaced rear droplinks and anti roll bar bushes.  It only really leaves shocks and/or top mounts, perhaps the rear toe arm.  Car drives fantastically well but these noises develop when it has got warm after driving a while.  The noise isn't there from cold.

I'm stumped.

If its not from cold and its from the rear could it be exhaust related? 

8 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Replace both, you will see a difference.

I think he did.... 

4 hours ago, Amaboknaai said:

Replaced both this morning, with Osram DS2's

22 minutes ago, BenM said:

They list Koni 'Active' Shocks, and Koni 'Special Active' Shocks

Are there 2 different versions, or is that a mistake ?

These are the ones I bought from autodoc via the app as it has a bigger discount than the website. 

They are in stock as well but its 'only' at 35% discount at the moment so I'd wait till 39% or 41% off if you're not in a rush. 

https://m.autodoc.co.uk/koni/12776114

https://m.autodoc.co.uk/koni/12776113

13 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

A 10cm drop bloody should be noticeable...

My spring broke on the front drivers side so it was already low before it got swapped over hence thinking it wasnt much difference. 😛 

Just found a before pic... and the 10cm drop is actually noticeable! 

4 minutes ago, BenM said:

Anybody have any 1st hand experience of the H&R M030's in term of ride and amount they lower ?

Not that noticeable but then my springs were 20 years old and knackered before replacing anyway. 

22 minutes ago, EXY said:

I was a tad worried that some scrote would take advantage of this,  as it is common knowledge, and get into the car so I taped it to the cross-member with a part of the loop across the middle.

When you looked in all you can see is a black plastic surface but if you want to activate the manual pull you insert the nose of pointy nosed pliers to puncture the tape and pull.

Never needed the manual release or the towing eye in 11 years of ownership but I do like to be prepared, dyb dyb dyb 

 

In this day and age I don't think us lowly 986 have to worry about that with all the modern expensive cars. 

The days of putting a locking wheel bolt on a 17" are long gone as well. 

2 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Just press and hold the 1 key and see what happens

That worked... 👍

3 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

low cost, day out depending on how advanced your man maths are.

2.5h drive 1 way... lol... with my heavy right foot doesn't equate to low cost. 👀😆

Not today but last thing I did was clar bar 2/3 of the car before I had to go rescue the wife in the civic which decided to drop the metal engine under tray into a snow plough position whilst on the motorway. 

Also tried it on the headlamps too which felt rough as hell to the touch but wasn't expecting much from it but they came up decent aswell. 

@½cwt copy your name and then paste after entering the @ symbol seems to work. 

Android mobile here... you could have just had a normal name to begin with too. 🤪

3 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Its @½cwt....

You know how many times I've tried to tag your bloody name searching for @ 1/2 etc... and nothing comes up! 🤪🤣

Cwt help me immensely and here's a list I compiled when I got mine done a couple months back. 👍

Make sure to oder top mount inner bearing too unlike me! 🤐

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1em2My_G3EvH2XMMrvrp3fjzF6qHUwCODZ0YXL6IZ-TA/edit?usp=drivesdk