edc Posted September 26, 2017 Report Share Posted September 26, 2017 Lots of penetrating fluid over a couple of nights. More time and patience if you previously used a fast fit place. They are geared up for short simple jobs and turning them over quickly in volume. Selling purely on labour time alone without any product doesn't fit their business model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROOPER88 Posted September 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2017 5 minutes ago, edc said: Lots of penetrating fluid over a couple of nights. More time and patience if you previously used a fast fit place. They are geared up for short simple jobs and turning them over quickly in volume. Selling purely on labour time alone without any product doesn't fit their business model. Thank you So what is the situation with this bolt? Will it just be very, very tight and they could not undo it? Or is there more to it that this? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menoporsche Posted September 26, 2017 Report Share Posted September 26, 2017 if the car is new to you, ensure all drain holes are fully clear - someone here has a diagram... Very common to be blocked, e.g. by autumn leaves, and then your cockpit gets two inches of water and needs a 600 quid fix for the flooded electrics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROOPER88 Posted September 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2017 Just now, Menoporsche said: if the car is new to you, ensure all drain holes are fully clear - someone here has a diagram... Very common to be blocked, e.g. by autumn leaves, and then your cockpit gets two inches of water and needs a 600 quid fix for the flooded electrics. Thanks This came up in the inspection that the drain holes are blocked. If someone has a diagram as to where they are located that would be great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gutley Posted September 26, 2017 Report Share Posted September 26, 2017 10 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said: This came up in the inspection that the drain holes are blocked. If someone has a diagram as to where they are located that would be great https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/drainsdiagram Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyUK Posted September 26, 2017 Report Share Posted September 26, 2017 mark the arm and the chassis to give you a rough idea of the original position then grind the head off the bolt. You could try lots of heat too. Other than that, give it to a good Indy and don't watch! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menoporsche Posted September 26, 2017 Report Share Posted September 26, 2017 55 minutes ago, JohnnyUK said: mark the arm and the chassis to give you a rough idea of the original position then grind the head off ^^ this is for your tight bolt, not the drain holes ^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edc Posted September 26, 2017 Report Share Posted September 26, 2017 If you are replacing arm and doing alignment then it doesn't much matter the position of the bolt as the eccentric bolt is what adjust the camber anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el 3.2S Posted September 27, 2017 Report Share Posted September 27, 2017 https://rennlist.com/forums/boxster-and-boxster-s-986-forum/522378-front-suspension-creak.html If you are still getting creaking from front suspension you might like to try what is described in the link above? When I first bought my car the front suspension creaked on uneven surfaces and only when the car was warmed up. I followed the method described above and injected grease into the ball joint rubber using a syringe and needle. Worked a treat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jvr Posted September 27, 2017 Report Share Posted September 27, 2017 21 hours ago, Gutley said: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/drainsdiagram That drain exit no2 I can't locate what do I need to look for or take off to get to it Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxob Posted September 27, 2017 Report Share Posted September 27, 2017 2 hours ago, Jvr said: That drain exit no2 I can't locate what do I need to look for or take off to get to it Cheers Work from the top rather than the bottom. The top of the drain hole is in the corner of the foam membrane under the clam shell. One drain hole each side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulQ Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 12 hours ago, Jvr said: That drain exit no2 I can't locate what do I need to look for or take off to get to it Cheers If you lift up the clam shell there is a small hole in the corner iirc.. Rubber grommet about 1/2 inch in diameter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jvr Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 Thanks to both of you I'll have a look at the weekend P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banjo1 Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 On 9/26/2017 at 9:14 PM, TROOPER88 said: Thank you So what is the situation with this bolt? Will it just be very, very tight and they could not undo it? Or is there more to it that this? Cheers hi, make sure you undo the nut and not the bolt as it will damage the bolt and washer.the nut needs an 18mm socket and the bolt head is 19mm socket. a new bolt/washer/nut is £18.56 from porsche. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROOPER88 Posted September 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 Hi I collected the car from the exhaust centre last night. It sounds much better now! It is not noisy at all but sounds standard with no blowing. They put it up on the ramp to show me the bolt they had problems with. They said the nut easily comes off the bolt but then the bolt just turns inside the rubber bush. They said it will turn but then springs back to its original place. It is annoying as it is the n/s/r and the camber is apparently way out. I think there may be a metal collar that goes around the bolt inside the bush and it is seized. I think ideally both rear arms need replacing tbh. I will have a look but think it maybe a job for the specialist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edc Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 I haven't done this but you may be able to turn it and drift it out at the same time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROOPER88 Posted September 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 6 minutes ago, edc said: I haven't done this but you may be able to turn it and drift it out at the same time? I have not had a look yet. Tbh I am sure they had a very, very good go at the exhaust centre as I know they do not like being beaten by something like this. They mentioned burning the bush out and even cutting the head of the bolt but I believe access is an issue. I will update once I have had a look Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banjo1 Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 1 hour ago, TROOPER88 said: Hi I collected the car from the exhaust centre last night. It sounds much better now! It is not noisy at all but sounds standard with no blowing. They put it up on the ramp to show me the bolt they had problems with. They said the nut easily comes off the bolt but then the bolt just turns inside the rubber bush. They said it will turn but then springs back to its original place. It is annoying as it is the n/s/r and the camber is apparently way out. I think there may be a metal collar that goes around the bolt inside the bush and it is seized. I think ideally both rear arms need replacing tbh. I will have a look but think it maybe a job for the specialist. sounds like the bolt has fused to the inner part of the bush in the lower arm. i have only recently done 2 rear lower arms and eccentric bolts for the purpose of a geo setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROOPER88 Posted September 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 8 minutes ago, banjo1 said: sounds like the bolt has fused to the inner part of the bush in the lower arm. i have only recently done 2 rear lower arms and eccentric bolts for the purpose of a geo setup. I think this is exactly what has happened. How did you go about removing them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banjo1 Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 2 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said: I think this is exactly what has happened. How did you go about removing them? thankfully my bolts came out ok however i did have a nightmare with the arb droplinks which i think may be the problem you are having in that they fused with the rear hub carrier.no amount of hitting would shift it.i had to remove most of the droplink and get a socket/impact gun and spin the bolt as well as penetrating oil and then cutting the bolt in half then punching out with a tool.its incredible how much effort it takes to remove these fused parts. in your case spinning the bolt may just break the inner sleeve away from the rubber part of the bush which will leave you drilling out the bolt which will be difficult.however it comes apart i think it will be hard work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyUK Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 1 hour ago, TROOPER88 said: I think this is exactly what has happened. How did you go about removing them? I used a thin grinding disc to cut between the chassis and the bush.(through bush and bolt) This was on the front though. You will bash away all day and still not get the bolt to move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the baron Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 On 15/09/2017 at 5:08 PM, Tex24v said: Sounds like a fairly reasonable list of stuff for a car of this age, nothing on the list is too unusual for a 986. Some of them will be a nice easy/cheap fix. Bet the specialist will more than double the size of your list though. (been there !) In answer to your question, yes the windows should auto close when you latch the roof shut, if they don't then the culprit is one of the micro-switches in the roof latch itself. Im not sure they do on early cars, when my roof closes the windows drop around an inch, when its closed and I latch it they dont raise back up, maybe others can advise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topradio Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 On my 986 (2.5 1998) the windows do not automatically go back up when the roof is latched and that's how it's been from new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagss2 Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 1 hour ago, the baron said: Im not sure they do on early cars, when my roof closes the windows drop around an inch, when its closed and I latch it they dont raise back up, maybe others can advise. 1 hour ago, topradio said: On my 986 (2.5 1998) the windows do not automatically go back up when the roof is latched and that's how it's been from new. Thank you gents for this. It's a relief to me, as for the last two years I have wondered if the windows should be going back up on re-latching in my 'early' 986S (MY2000). At least that's another 'would probably never have been fixed anyway' job off the list! Cheers, Baggers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patt Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 I took a 981 out last week and was pleasantly surprised to notice that the windows go all the way back up after opening the roof. Drain holes - the 2.5 and older cars only has two drain holes in the frunk - one passenger side and one under battery. New 986's have three drain holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.