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Photogirl

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12 minutes ago, hopz121 said:

I am still intrigued to know who the specialist is who's quoted the work. I am fairly local to you and would like to know where to avoid.

I plan on travelling to Cotswold for the majority of work on mine, his prices are exceptionally good to make the trip very worth while! I have had quote recently to do some basic stuff locally and the price quoted by cotswold was a good 40% cheaper! 

It's Walkers at Adversane - well recommended and well regarded so I thought I'd give them a try this time. I've used Mortimers before, they're very knowledgeable and similar prices. 

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Some indys don't differentiate but others seem to have a preference for the higher end of the Porsche market with owners who will maintain an appreciating £30k+ 911 regardless of cost and not get the difference with a £5 or 6k Boxster.

Edited by ½cwt
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58 minutes ago, The Caped Crusader said:

I don't understand why you're even bothering taking the car back to them. MOT or not, get it trailered to @TROOPER88 for a few hundred and get it all checked and sorted for a reasonable sum.

 

Is it just me that's getting frustrated with this thread? 🤔

It's not a question of taking it back - the car is already there undergoing a service plus I understand I can't legally drive it away due to the failed MOT. So I was going to get those essentials done then the other things elsewhere. I was interested in getting some thoughts on the prices. It appears they're quite similar at the local indis I've consulted, so it was helpful to get TROOPER88's contact details.

Apologies for causing frustration - that wasn't my intent - this is a bit of a learning process. I'll leave it here and update when there's a resolution. Many thanks indeed to all who have contributed. 

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19 minutes ago, The Caped Crusader said:

Who said you couldn't drive it away after a failed MOT? You can unless it's failed on something classed as 'dangerous'. If not, you've got 10 days to go and get it fixed before retest. 

This

 

If nothing classed as dangerous then the old MOT is still valid until its expiry date.  Give us your reg and we can check on MOT website.

 

10 days is only relevant if you want to save yourself another 40 or 50 quid MOT fee.  If you dont care about this then you can get the MOT later or elsewhere.

Edited by ATM
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1 hour ago, Photogirl said:

It's Walkers at Adversane - well recommended and well regarded so I thought I'd give them a try this time. I've used Mortimers before, they're very knowledgeable and similar prices. 

I've settled with Precision Porsche, also not cheap but I think they're fair. Two years ago when I needed a body of work done, I took advice in creating a parts list, shopped around & got all the bits. Precision were quite happy to use the parts I supplied & just charged me labour. It saved me a lot of money.

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3 hours ago, Photogirl said:

It's not a question of taking it back - the car is already there undergoing a service plus I understand I can't legally drive it away due to the failed MOT. So I was going to get those essentials done then the other things elsewhere. I was interested in getting some thoughts on the prices. It appears they're quite similar at the local indis I've consulted, so it was helpful to get TROOPER88's contact details.

Apologies for causing frustration - that wasn't my intent - this is a bit of a learning process. I'll leave it here and update when there's a resolution. Many thanks indeed to all who have contributed. 

@PhotogirlI think I speak for all the contributors on this thread when I say, we just don't want to see you overcharged when it is so easily avoidable. Hope you get it all sorted. 

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On 7/19/2023 at 9:45 AM, greenman986s said:

Exactly - they are taking you for a ride. That total quote is £995, of which less than £100 is parts...hence the extortionate labour charge

The anti roll bar itself is fairly expensive as a new part so not that surprising.

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4 hours ago, jonogt6 said:

Unless it fails ehhh😉

But even according the the US class action against Porsche 8 times less likely to fail than the single row later bearing used from part way into the 2001 model year.

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4 hours ago, jonogt6 said:

The anti roll bar itself is fairly expensive as a new part so not that surprising.

I got my (genuine) replacement which was essentially corrosion free from a breaker for about 10% of new and even came with the bushes and the two bush retraining brackets (I used new bushes), however I appreciate some people want to use new.

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18 hours ago, Scubaregs said:

I think @TROOPER88 may be diplomatically staying out of this thread rather than appear to be "touting" for business so to speak.

@Photogirl, surely it must be worth your while sending him a PM referencing this thread and asking if he would care to give you a quote/advice or both?

I think @TROOPER88 was tired of the grief he got from certain people for no reason...he's got a good facebook page instead and I can't imagine he'd be short of business...

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11 minutes ago, dpg123 said:

I think @TROOPER88 was tired of the grief he got from certain people for no reason...he's got a good facebook page instead and I can't imagine he'd be short of business...

Yes this is what he's told me too.  He should see and respond to PMs (well he has to mine) but does not participate any longer.

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1 hour ago, Menoporsche said:

Well he's been "summoned" in this thread probably over 10 times already. I'm sure he's aware of it and doesn't need the reminders. It's up to the OP.

I've pinged him a PM to suggest he reads this topic...

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19 hours ago, The Caped Crusader said:

Who said you couldn't drive it away after a failed MOT? You can unless it's failed on something classed as 'dangerous'. If not, you've got 10 days to go and get it fixed before retest. 

Thank you everyone - just to say TROOPER88 and I are in contact.  👍

Edited by Photogirl
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2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Yes this is what he's told me too.  He should see and respond to PMs (well he has to mine) but does not participate any longer.

We're in touch now so thank you for letting TROOPER88 know about this discussion. For some reason I can't send PMs (the facility disappeared off my profile a few years ago for some reason).

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11 hours ago, ½cwt said:

But even according the the US class action against Porsche 8 times less likely to fail than the single row later bearing used from part way into the 2001 model year.

I think their figures were around 8% failure rate for models after late 2000. Failure rate on the earlier bearings is said to be around 1%.

Just wondering - does the advice to leave it alone include removing it for inspection? 

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Just now, Photogirl said:

I think their figures were around 8% failure rate for models after late 2000. Failure rate on the earlier bearings is said to be around 1%.

Just wondering - does the advice to leave it alone include removing it for inspection? 

If you go to the extent of removing it, it would need replacing.  Most people who do the IMS bearing opt for one of the kits with a ceramic bearing or oiled fed bearing which cost £1k+ once fitted.  It is possible to replace the original bearing like-for-like which cost about £50, plus labour if an indy is prepared to do it:

Deep groove ball bearing - double rows bd20-17-a-ddua17nx01-nsk - 20x4 (123bearing.co.uk)

You cannot buy the bearing only from Porsche.

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9 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

If you go to the extent of removing it, it would need replacing.  Most people who do the IMS bearing opt for one of the kits with a ceramic bearing or oiled fed bearing which cost £1k+ once fitted.  It is possible to replace the original bearing like-for-like which cost about £50, plus labour if an indy is prepared to do it:

Deep groove ball bearing - double rows bd20-17-a-ddua17nx01-nsk - 20x4 (123bearing.co.uk)

You cannot buy the bearing only from Porsche.

Thanks - I'm personally not fussed about it, but I'm aware that if I had to part with the car the bearing is probably one of the first things I'd be asked about. I've heard of people removing them to inspect so was curious about any implications.

If I did replace it I was thinking of the LN version. I'm wondering if the LN bearing is stronger than the Porsche one - interestingly they recommend replacing it every 6 years. 

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2 minutes ago, Photogirl said:

Thanks - I'm personally not fussed about it, but I'm aware that if I had to part with the car the bearing is probably one of the first things I'd be asked about. I've heard of people removing them to inspect so was curious about any implications.

If I did replace it I was thinking of the LN version. I'm wondering if the LN bearing is stronger than the Porsche one - interestingly they recommend replacing it every 6 years. 

This exactly; you have perfectly good Porsche OE bearing that has done 20+ years and yet an LN bearing kit will cost a fortune and then need doing again in 6 years... They clearly have less confidence in their bearing than Porsche did when they spec'd theirs.  It is interesting to read the analysis of the IMS issue in this video from America (it is a bit if a drag but has useful info in it), but don't get dragged in by the oil fed bearing solution:

 

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At risk of turning this into yet another IMS thread, one other note on early cars with high mileage and original IMS bearing - @the baron is over 210k miles on his '97 car and had his checked in situ recently when his clutch was done by a well respected indy, Lee at Cotswold Porsche.  No concern on condition.

Edited by ½cwt
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33 minutes ago, Photogirl said:

We're in touch now so thank you for letting TROOPER88 know about this discussion. For some reason I can't send PMs (the facility disappeared off my profile a few years ago for some reason).

This normally happens if you talk shyatee on this forum and get put in the dog house.  Just start grovelling more and it might come back.

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