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Couple of issues on my 986


Shippers01

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Not cheap but 3M do a water detection tape which can be useful in seeking out leak points, I've seen small rolls of it pop up on the Bay of E.

The tape turns red on contact with water.

https://www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/p/c/electronics-components/electronics-films-tapes/water-contact-indicator-tapes/

 

Edited by iborguk
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6 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Rough running - coil packs mentioned above, partially blocked fuel filter?  What year is the car as from '02 models onwards the filter is part of the sender/pick up in the tank, prior to that it is an in-line filter under the car which would be more susceptible to blocking.  Other possible causes - sticky Variocam solenoid, MAF sensor, blocked tank vent to name a few.

Just seen boxersum thread down page few posts. Must have scrolled past it!!! Are these the right coil packs for my car 2001 boxster S.

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1 minute ago, Shippers01 said:

Just seen boxersum thread down page few posts. Must have scrolled past it!!! Are these the right coil packs for my car 2001 boxster S.

You don't state the year in your My Ride on the profile, but as you say Boxster S, BERU ZS178 are the ones.

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13 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

You don't state the year in your My Ride on the profile, but as you say Boxster S, BERU ZS178 are the ones.

Its a 2001 x reg. Thanks. Will try and update my ride. Not very good with internet things!!

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Covers on cars can be worse in the long run, much better to fix the issues than cover the car.  That traps moisture and in my case has caused the lacquer to peel, you may also find that if there is any movement in the wind then your paint will get damaged.  I have been fighting leaks since I bought the car to restore a few years ago, so far I have fixed 3 issues not including a couple of blocked drains.  The last two (fingers crossed) are the heater matrix gasket and drivers door membrane (both on order).  I am becoming an expert on 986 leaks!!

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13 minutes ago, Daboy3000 said:

Covers on cars can be worse in the long run, much better to fix the issues than cover the car.  That traps moisture and in my case has caused the lacquer to peel, you may also find that if there is any movement in the wind then your paint will get damaged.  I have been fighting leaks since I bought the car to restore a few years ago, so far I have fixed 3 issues not including a couple of blocked drains.  The last two (fingers crossed) are the heater matrix gasket and drivers door membrane (both on order).  I am becoming an expert on 986 leaks!!

This is why I went half-cover on my 987.2 and the current car, a CabrioShield Premium, which is breathable and quick to take off/put on.

Not a cheap half-cover but a lot cheaper than a new roof cover and in my view worth every penny. 

My cars live outside all the time and I wanted something which prevents fox claw marks (it happened) and keeps other stuff off the roof when not in use.

Like you I don't think a cover is a long term fix to a leak, best dealing with the root cause.

 

 

Edited by iborguk
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This is what I am currently using. Lots better than a full cover.  But if it's been damp for a while,  just on top of the rear wing, underneath the cover I am getting the lacquer lifting a but.  Probably down to a bad repair at some point, but it is the cover that has exacerbated it.

I'm guessing you rarely secure it by closing the door onto those little tags either.

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Just now, Daboy3000 said:

 Probably down to a bad repair at some point, but it is the cover that has exacerbated it.

I'm guessing you rarely secure it by closing the door onto those little tags either.

Yeah that sounds like something in the paint.

Yes I secure the doors, no issues , it's a cloth tag covering some kind of pliable plastic piece on the 981 cover (which is what I've used on my 718 and fits fine unsurprsingly). No marks or issues securing it on the doors.

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41 minutes ago, Daboy3000 said:

Mine seems to be an inch of material that's quite thick, it's very tricky to hold it in place and shut the door.  My only gripe as the cover is very good in general.

I have a CabrioShield for my 986 too, every tab is located every time it is fitted, takes seconds.  The tab have a thicker bit of piping that traps in the door shut, shouldn't be  thick wadge of material.  Correctly fitting these prevents the cover movement that can damage paint, but even then the contact magnetic strip areas have microfibre lining to help avoid paint damage and it helps if you keep the car clean too. 

Lacquer should not peel just because a cover has been used, I suspect a quality issue rather than the cover....

Significantly reduce rear leak issues as it stops ss much detritus being washed into the rear drains, but yes, best to fix the leaks....

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I don't know how you find it so easy.  You have to open the door enough to be able to give it a good push shut, while trying to hold it in place.  The more you open the door the further away the tag is.  I can just hear the microswitches screaming at me to stop!

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1 hour ago, Daboy3000 said:

I don't know how you find it so easy.  You have to open the door enough to be able to give it a good push shut, while trying to hold it in place.  The more you open the door the further away the tag is.  I can just hear the microswitches screaming at me to stop!

Press the door home the last inch or so and it will latch with the tab in place.  I find working front to back is easiest making sure the front of the cover lines up with the bottom of the front screen, then A pillars (you can slot these vertically into the top of the door without opening the door much), then doors then boot and finally the Velcro under the mirrors.

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12 hours ago, iborguk said:

Maybe @Patt or @Lonewolfgjp have some product recommendations re the seats/headliner ? Thanks

I use a carpet cleaner manually brushed in , then an extractor to remove for most fabrics.

On leather/leatherette I tend to use car soap or similar very mild soap wipe on wipe off. NO conditioner etc as that's just oils that magnify the sun thus cause more damage. Think of the seats as painted leather, just like your painted body panels.

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14 hours ago, Shippers01 said:

Bit of both. Not really been anywhere in it since October so few 5 or 10 min drive around block then sometimes letting it idle for 20 to 30 mins.

 Most would agree  this not an ideal pattern of use, particularly letting it idle for any length of time, especially from cold. A ten minute drive once in a while probably does more harm than good too, as the engine and gearbox oil won't get up to operating temperatures. Longer trips with the car (40 miles plus) gets thing properly warm helping keep the damp down too.  Don't take my word on it though, have a search around this forum and elsewhere.  Enjoy the car, use as much as possible. Good luck. 

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Since I fixed my drivers door membrane leak I have no damp carpets etc.

I do get condensation but think this is just the nature of a 20year old soft top.

condensation bags really help as unfortunately my 986 is kept out doors.

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On the dehumidifier bags, you do have to take them out to dry them every now and again either on a rad overnight or in the microwave (if appropriate) to drive off the moisture they have gathered.

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22 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

On the dehumidifier bags, you do have to take them out to dry them every now and again either on a rad overnight or in the microwave (if appropriate) to drive off the moisture they have gathered.

Yes, the microwave is the most effective. When my car seemed to be damp, I dried the two demudifier bags every day. They worked quite well. Once I had a garage, the bags became redundant.

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The bags work really well. This was taken last night after I put just-dried bags on the dash. It was a particularly humid night and I'd just driven the car, so the warm air in the car had started to condense on the cold windscreen. 

4qTolXp.jpg

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5 hours ago, Nitro V8 said:

 

I do get condensation but think this is just the nature of a 20year old soft top.

 

I get condescension in my 981 and have since I got it. So it was about 4 old when I first got it. Its not just old cars with soft tops.

 

As stuff cools down then any moisture in the air will condense onto the colder surface. Glass is obviously a problematic surface and also metal. I won't go on about the heat capacity of different materials. This is why we get frost on our windows in the morning and grass feels wet etc. 

 

So if the air in your car is holding any moisture it will do this. All the air in this country will hold some moisture it can not be avoided. So the moisture will then condense on surfaces as explained. Then in the day time when there is some sunshine it might evaporate off but not all. Some will remain. New moisture can find its way into the car in the air that circulates. Your car is not in a vacuum. It has holes to the outside world. These holes allow fresh air in which will be holding moisture and so the process repeats again and again.

 

If the water condescension does not all evaporate off during the day and then the process repeats at night, so new condescension is added to the old, then the water can build up or increase. So it grows, builds up or escalates. 

 

One winter I had ice frozen to the inside of the windscreen of my 981 and again it was not old at the time. But it had been left outside and not driven or used for several days as it had been snowing a lot.

 

Now yes a convertible car may be worse than a fixed roof. But it really just depends on how much ventilation there is with the outside world. Because it's the process of new moisture finding it's way in to then condense and add to the condescension already there from the day before and so on and so on.

 

Especially if the car is not used and its just getting damper and damper inside. 

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