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What have YOU done to your 986 today ?


Mike G

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Hi

Today took the sump off the Tiptronic and then resealed using the correct gasket. Sadly the incorrect (too thick) gasket caused the sump to deform and I had to hammer the flange flat again and use blue RTV on the gasket (which I wanted to avoid). I can see a replacement sump in my future. Make sure you only use a thin green type gasket only. If you are sold anything else with a filter then throw it and get the correct one.

I also emptied out the rest of the (strangely clear) diff oil. 

One step back, one step forwards.......

Berni

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On 5/23/2020 at 11:55 AM, edc said:

If you're having problems with the rear geo get some adjustable toe links. The other benefit is you tend to get these rose jointed.

I have this problem on the rear of my car, can you recommend adjustable toe links? I have a mixture of meyle and trw on mine currently.

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Might be missing something in terms of adjustable arms and a 986 but here goes......

Standard car - Yes

OE/OEM components - Yes

Aligns to factory tolerances - No 

The answer to this conundrum may not be adjustable parts but could be revealed in the answer to another question. 

That question might be: “Why won’t this bolt up and align to standard?”

Please just ask and critically answer that question before adding adjustable bits and pieces.

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51 minutes ago, map said:

Might be missing something in terms of adjustable arms and a 986 but here goes......

Standard car - Yes

OE/OEM components - Yes

Aligns to factory tolerances - No 

The answer to this conundrum may not be adjustable parts but could be revealed in the answer to another question. 

That question might be: “Why won’t this bolt up and align to standard?”

Please just ask and critically answer that question before adding adjustable bits and pieces.

👍 the correct approach to problem solving.  Don't just throw parts at it.

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On both mine the problem occurs when the car is lowered. You might lower it but equally it might lower itself with old saggy suspension. Normally hat happens is when you set the rear toe to parallel +/-5, you end up with an excessive amount of negative camber probably -2 to -2.5. 

The adjustable toe links enable you to keep the correct toe setting but bring the camber back to something more sensible. Now this doesn't matter if you want a lot of rear negative camber, perhaps because you are adding a lot of front negative camber. But if you do t address it you end up with say -2 to -2.5 on the rear and maybe -0.5 to -1 on the front. 

But yes as above do the usual checks to make sure the suspension and chassis is in otherwise good order. 

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3 hours ago, GmanB said:

I have this problem on the rear of my car, can you recommend adjustable toe links? I have a mixture of meyle and trw on mine currently.

I don't have a recommendation as I haven't used anything on the market. I have a pair of home made by @marseille adjustable links. They are modified standard toe links with an adjustable end placed on. I upgraded the rod end to a higher spec Fluoro item. 

Anecdotal feedback is that just like the exhaust box many of the ones that look the same are the AliExpress sourced ones rebranded. They are supposedly quite chunky and heavy and come in gaudy colours. 

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Hi

Fitted a new RHS diff output seal. Filled the empty final drive with new oil. Set the eccentric bolts on the rear coffin arms to give maximum -ve camber (ahead of the gearbox etc going back in). Sprayed all the external rusty piping on the tip box with Dinitrol (had already wire brushed).

Hopefully will get the gearbox bolted up tomorrow.

Berni

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3 hours ago, Darren Sapsford said:

Fitted new track rod ends, new gear lever gaitor, mocked up where the race seat is going, realized the remote locking doesn't work anymore despite not having any battery issues and a good machine polish

Do you have 2 keys and both have stopped or just he one no longer working?  If you only have 1 key, either the microswitch has failed in the key head, quite common, or the coding has gone out of sync I imagine.  This seems to be cropping up more often on older or more used 986s, the system seems to only be able to cope with so many transactions, exacerbated by key fiddling when the car is out of range.  Try keyfobrepair.co.uk for a switch repair, £37.50 including postage.  They have fixed quite a few posters' keys and did a repair on mine before I found the out of sync problem.  There is a routine to follow to maybe get back in sync involving turning the key left and right in the driver's door lock whilst holding the lock button, but I can't find it currently and as not successful in my case.  This was my spare at the time, In then successfully screwed everything up put putting my other fully working key through the wash.... £230 at local OPC later to get a fully working key with a new key head and programming, oh plus a cup of coffee FOC.

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33 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Do you have 2 keys and both have stopped or just he one no longer working?  If you only have 1 key, either the microswitch has failed in the key head, quite common, or the coding has gone out of sync I imagine.  This seems to be cropping up more often on older or more used 986s, the system seems to only be able to cope with so many transactions, exacerbated by key fiddling when the car is out of range.  Try keyfobrepair.co.uk for a switch repair, £37.50 including postage.  They have fixed quite a few posters' keys and did a repair on mine before I found the out of sync problem.  There is a routine to follow to maybe get back in sync involving turning the key left and right in the driver's door lock whilst holding the lock button, but I can't find it currently and as not successful in my case.  This was my spare at the time, In then successfully screwed everything up put putting my other fully working key through the wash.... £230 at local OPC later to get a fully working key with a new key head and programming, oh plus a cup of coffee FOC.

Cheers, just strange it has worked fine since I got the car and now suddenly stopped and only the passenger window drops to lower the roof? 

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1 hour ago, Darren Sapsford said:

Cheers, just strange it has worked fine since I got the car and now suddenly stopped and only the passenger window drops to lower the roof? 

The window issue could be the electrics to the driver door. Does the driver's side window work normally otherwise?

I have an issue with mine that when closing the roof the windows don't go up on completion of the operation. 

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Today I chopped out my knackered old ballasts

that had meant I had no fan cooling from the front and joined up the green wires so I would have full fan speed anytime just by engaging the AC snowflake button.

Finally I checked my landing “patina” 


Just trying it out now and seems the jobs a good’un! 

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48 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

I have an issue with mine that when closing the roof the windows don't go up on completion of the operation. 

Are you sure that's a fault? Earlier models do not close the windows as part of the roof raising operation. Mine a 1998 model doesn't.

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1 minute ago, Boxob said:

Are you sure that's a fault? Earlier models do not close the windows as part of the roof raising operation. Mine a 1998 model doesn't.

Nor did my year 2000 986S, if you press the windows to go up while you are doing the roof it stops short but then completes when you pull the latch over but they didnt close the windows if they were down on mine

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40 minutes ago, Bike Loon said:

Nor did my year 2000 986S, if you press the windows to go up while you are doing the roof it stops short but then completes when you pull the latch over but they didnt close the windows if they were down on mine

I believe in later cars had a feature where upon opening completion, you could press the micro switch and the windows would close again if they were closed when the operation began. Thought that was cool. Guess you’re describing the other side of that feature. 

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20 minutes ago, Mr96er said:

I believe in later cars had a feature where upon opening completion, you could press the micro switch and the windows would close again if they were closed when the operation began. Thought that was cool. Guess you’re describing the other side of that feature. 

If the windows were closed, when you pressed the button for the roof to go up they would do the 2 inch drop and when you pulled the handle at the end it would re close them yes. Think the earlier post was saying if the windows were open when the roof close started

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20 minutes ago, stevemag said:

Apart from cleaning and yet more polishing......I fitted thsee nice polished bezels to my clocks ( 2.7 boxster )

cost 

£34.00 off eblag 20200529_141152.jpg

I like those do you have a alink, Thanks

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12 minutes ago, roofer84 said:

I like those do you have a alink, Thanks

I bought mine from an EU country a while ago

But

Just found these.....cheaper but .......china :lol:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3PCS-Silver-Dashboard-Meter-Ring-Covers-Trim-Fit-For-Porsche-718-Boxter-Cayman/254203426073?fits=Car+Make%3APorsche&hash=item3b2fb47519:g:1HYAAOSwj~Jct-fc

The ones I bought are metal , friction fit, no sticky tape to fiddle with

So worth the extra 

Edited by stevemag
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3 hours ago, ½cwt said:

The window issue could be the electrics to the driver door. Does the driver's side window work normally otherwise?

I have an issue with mine that when closing the roof the windows don't go up on completion of the operation. 

Drivers window works fine. My windows don't go up when the roof is closed. Always had to manually raise them.

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16 hours ago, Bike Loon said:

If the windows were closed, when you pressed the button for the roof to go up they would do the 2 inch drop and when you pulled the handle at the end it would re close them yes. Think the earlier post was saying if the windows were open when the roof close started

The issue was if the windows were up already and then closing the hood.  IT may never have done it but the roof is down so often at the moment it just seems a slight irritant rather than major problem.

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21 hours ago, ½cwt said:

The window issue could be the electrics to the driver door. Does the driver's side window work normally otherwise?

I have an issue with mine that when closing the roof the windows don't go up on completion of the operation. 

Earlier models only drop the window, they don't go back up after closing the roof. Not sure when that changed

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