Scubaregs Posted February 7 Report Share Posted February 7 4 minutes ago, Jonners said: You can beat nailing a perfect heal and toe shift! Yes, with PDK. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted February 7 Report Share Posted February 7 4 hours ago, Scubaregs said: Yes, with PDK. No, the computer does those, not YOU! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaregs Posted February 7 Report Share Posted February 7 1 minute ago, ½cwt said: No, the computer does those, not YOU! I think you missed the irony......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted February 7 Report Share Posted February 7 2 minutes ago, Scubaregs said: I think you missed the irony......... Maybe, but #savethemanual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaregs Posted February 7 Report Share Posted February 7 1 minute ago, ½cwt said: Maybe, but #savethemanual Reread what I quoted from Jonners, he meant to type "can’t", but type can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted February 7 Report Share Posted February 7 A fully sync'd heel toe change is soooo satisfying particularly with a sweet rifle bolt manual shift, but then again so are the rapid fire changes of a PDK in Sport mode, albeit they take rather less skill.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaregs Posted February 7 Report Share Posted February 7 9 minutes ago, ½cwt said: A fully sync'd heel toe change is soooo satisfying particularly with a sweet rifle bolt manual shift, but then again so are the rapid fire changes of a PDK in Sport mode, albeit they take rather less skill.... Just shows how unskilful those F1 drivers are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted February 7 Report Share Posted February 7 1 hour ago, Scubaregs said: Just shows how unskilful those F1 drivers are. But its fast, so they don't care. None of the current crop have ever raced a gearbox with an H pattern shift, let alone that required heel toeing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaregs Posted February 8 Report Share Posted February 8 11 hours ago, ½cwt said: But its fast, so they don't care. None of the current crop have ever raced a gearbox with an H pattern shift, let alone that required heel toeing... They've not had to start their own car with a cranking handle either. 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menoporsche Posted February 8 Report Share Posted February 8 Yeah. Or spray WD40 over the dizzy cap on a damp winter morning. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cozzykim Posted February 8 Report Share Posted February 8 4 hours ago, Menoporsche said: Yeah. Or spray WD40 over the dizzy cap on a damp winter morning. Or take all the plugs out and put them in the gas oven before it'll even fire (Brand new MkIII Escort 1.3 CVH) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bte123 Posted February 10 Report Share Posted February 10 hi chaps - about to do the same thing. 981 manual is what I'm after. have seen 2 or 3 private sales online which have really perked my interest, anything particularly specific that a new 981 owner should consider before buying? (other than the usual stuff like SH and alike). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy p Posted February 10 Report Share Posted February 10 Condition Condition and condition imo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl s Posted February 12 Report Share Posted February 12 The 981 platform is great, I test drove quite a few cars both manual & PDK, Boxster & Cayman before settling on a 981 manual base Cayman. I knew after 200 yards of driving it that it was the car I was going to buy 😍, the ability to manually control that flat-6 noise was a winner for me over PDK, but you might be different so give both a chance. I'm a firm believer that 90% of the public sell a car at a particular time for a reason, if that's a predetermined time like 3-4 years at the end of a lease contract then chances are the car will be running well because they haven't sold it because of any looming mechanical issue. When cars over this age get sold there's usually a reason and that may be because they've fallen out of love for the car because it's being a pain in the ar$e and will soon cost them a tidy sum. I bought a manual 981 base Cayman last March from an independent dealer and I'm glad I did. It was 2-3 grand over the price private cars had been going for, but as it was a 10 year old car I wanted some sort of backup. Within 3 months it'd had a new steering rack, new driveshaft, HVAC controls, and 2 weeks off the road for a phantom brake fluid leak (which was over £1000 of labour to find, disassemble & fit a £14 part) It wasn't a bad car, it had just been owned by someone who had the regular maintenance done every 2 years, nothing preventative, repaired something if it went wrong, probably wasn't an enthusiast, and was using it as a daily to rack up 78k miles. The cost of the repairs would have totalled many thousands, certainly more than the premium I paid to buy it from a dealer. If you can find a private car from an enthusiast then chances are its been looked after. If you go and see it privately and it has the bare minimum service record and they don't know anything more than that then you are taking a chance. For example my air filters were so clogged up they were starting cause hesitation at light throttle, yet the car has all it's requisite service stamps in the book, and probably weren't due for change for another 2 years. One other piece of advice is be aware that 20" wheels combined with no PASM (active suspension) can make for quite a harsh ride on the front of the car where the tyre profiles are lower than the rear (yes I know they are both 35 profile but that's a % of the width so the rear sidewalls are actually 1/2" deeper than fronts) . Anecdotal research on a few forums seems to indicate that these cars can be more susceptible to things going wrong in the front of the car than those with 18 or 19" wheels, or cars with 20" and PASM. Mine for example had two broken coil springs in the front prior to me owning it, plus the brake to clutch reservoir line fractured (the £14 part that cost £1000 to diagnose!) plus the steering rack had a electronic component failure probably due to compound shock/vibrations. I have since moved to 19" Cayman S wheels and the ride is so much more forgiving on the standard springs. If you get a car from a dealer they legally have to give you 3 months warranty, my advice is drive it as much as you can in that time and you'll soon root out any gremlins lurking. Good luck whichever you chose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulguitar Posted February 12 Author Report Share Posted February 12 3 hours ago, carl s said: The 981 platform is great, I test drove quite a few cars both manual & PDK, Boxster & Cayman before settling on a 981 manual base Cayman. I knew after 200 yards of driving it that it was the car I was going to buy 😍, the ability to manually control that flat-6 noise was a winner for me over PDK, but you might be different so give both a chance. I'm a firm believer that 90% of the public sell a car at a particular time for a reason, if that's a predetermined time like 3-4 years at the end of a lease contract then chances are the car will be running well because they haven't sold it because of any looming mechanical issue. When cars over this age get sold there's usually a reason and that may be because they've fallen out of love for the car because it's being a pain in the ar$e and will soon cost them a tidy sum. I bought a manual 981 base Cayman last March from an independent dealer and I'm glad I did. It was 2-3 grand over the price private cars had been going for, but as it was a 10 year old car I wanted some sort of backup. Within 3 months it'd had a new steering rack, new driveshaft, HVAC controls, and 2 weeks off the road for a phantom brake fluid leak (which was over £1000 of labour to find, disassemble & fit a £14 part) It wasn't a bad car, it had just been owned by someone who had the regular maintenance done every 2 years, nothing preventative, repaired something if it went wrong, probably wasn't an enthusiast, and was using it as a daily to rack up 78k miles. The cost of the repairs would have totalled many thousands, certainly more than the premium I paid to buy it from a dealer. If you can find a private car from an enthusiast then chances are its been looked after. If you go and see it privately and it has the bare minimum service record and they don't know anything more than that then you are taking a chance. For example my air filters were so clogged up they were starting cause hesitation at light throttle, yet the car has all it's requisite service stamps in the book, and probably weren't due for change for another 2 years. One other piece of advice is be aware that 20" wheels combined with no PASM (active suspension) can make for quite a harsh ride on the front of the car where the tyre profiles are lower than the rear (yes I know they are both 35 profile but that's a % of the width so the rear sidewalls are actually 1/2" deeper than fronts) . Anecdotal research on a few forums seems to indicate that these cars can be more susceptible to things going wrong in the front of the car than those with 18 or 19" wheels, or cars with 20" and PASM. Mine for example had two broken coil springs in the front prior to me owning it, plus the brake to clutch reservoir line fractured (the £14 part that cost £1000 to diagnose!) plus the steering rack had a electronic component failure probably due to compound shock/vibrations. I have since moved to 19" Cayman S wheels and the ride is so much more forgiving on the standard springs. If you get a car from a dealer they legally have to give you 3 months warranty, my advice is drive it as much as you can in that time and you'll soon root out any gremlins lurking. Good luck whichever you chose. Thanks, some really useful information and advice there. I'm a fan of small wheels, I think they are pretty much always better. My 987 is on 17s. I'm hoping to find a car from an enthusiast here but I agree about the safety net of paying of bit more at a dealer. That 3-month period to hopefully weed out any issues is very useful. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMA Posted February 12 Report Share Posted February 12 4 hours ago, carl s said: Within 3 months it'd had a new steering rack, new driveshaft, HVAC controls, and 2 weeks off the road for a phantom brake fluid leak (which was over £1000 of labour to find, disassemble & fit a £14 part) It wasn't a bad car, it had just been owned by someone who had the regular maintenance done every 2 years, nothing preventative, repaired something if it went wrong, probably wasn't an enthusiast Out of interest what was wrong with these bits that an enthusiast might have picked up on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl s Posted February 12 Report Share Posted February 12 4 hours ago, CMA said: Out of interest what was wrong with these bits that an enthusiast might have picked up on? The brake fluid light kept coming on every 2 weeks as there was a chaffed line where the brake fluid reservoir shares fluid with the clutch reservoir. There are a few incidents of it in the USA in higher mileage cars, if you know what to look for it's only a few £ part plus a good few hrs labour. I understand there are a few DIY writeups if you're handly with a screwdriver and have a few spare hours. The steering rack is apparently quite common, mine started losing power assist sporadically over 200 miles then lost it completely. I was in Belgium at the time but managed to limp home. Not sure there's any way to know if it's going to go wrong but the 20" wheels without PASM definitely contributed. The driveshaft started spitting grease onto the inside of the rear wheel, on examination it wasn't the boot but the actual metal body of the joint had rusted through and was weeping gease through the rust holes! Quiet rare but apparently seen on some 987's and very easy to check but sticking your head under the car. The HVAC controls were filled up with gunk and sticking from a previous owner's coffee spills. There is a DIY way of fixing yourself through taking apart and cleaning but for a garage it's easier to replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menoporsche Posted February 13 Report Share Posted February 13 10 hours ago, carl s said: the actual metal body of the joint had rusted through and was weeping gease through the rust holes! 🫣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichW426 Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 On 2/12/2024 at 11:20 PM, carl s said: The driveshaft started spitting grease onto the inside of the rear wheel, on examination it wasn't the boot but the actual metal body of the joint had rusted through and was weeping gease through the rust holes! Quiet rare but apparently seen on some 987's and very easy to check but sticking your head under the car. Mines done this, and I've picked up on other cars doing the same. MOT history may show this if its got advisories. I've currently bodged mine by wrapping tape around the metal cap, however the fix has failed after a 10 day trip around Europe, so going for bodge/repair No.2 by sealing the holes with silicone before wrapping with tape. If that also fails then its big money time and a new drive shaft! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichW426 Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 You can see the small crack here which is the cause of the issue. On the earliest 981's also look for corroded brake lines, depending on mileage and use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andygo Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 15 hours ago, RichW426 said: You can see the small crack here which is the cause of the issue. On the earliest 981's also look for corroded brake lines, depending on mileage and use. I used to have a high mileage 987 boxster S. I had mine fixed by a company in Birmigham that refurbed the shaft. Did a great job. Unfortunately that was a few years ago and I cant remenmber the company, but I'm sure it's either still trading or there will be alternatives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichW426 Posted February 27 Report Share Posted February 27 On 2/26/2024 at 12:30 PM, andygo said: I used to have a high mileage 987 boxster S. I had mine fixed by a company in Birmigham that refurbed the shaft. Did a great job. Unfortunately that was a few years ago and I cant remenmber the company, but I'm sure it's either still trading or there will be alternatives. My specialist ( https://www.rpmspecialistcars.co.uk ) uses a place that can replace the caps, but at this current time he's ran out of caps and does not know when he'll get more in. Good info though, thanks, sounds like it could well be worth phoning around the country to see if any other specialists can offer the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patt Posted February 28 Report Share Posted February 28 The PDK has shorter gears. I feel it works better with the PSE, especially with full throttle gear changes. When I was looking the gearbox mattered less than the colour, they are both great to drive. Since "the virus" the majority of drivers seem to have forgotten how to concentrate in traffic, I'm now thankful of not having to control a clutch, or pay to replace one either. If you have not driven both, I strongly recommend you do before purchase. Also there are a few groups on Faceballs and often owners post for sale in there too. I' sure I saw a white 981S for £25/27k with some great options including PTV this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andygo Posted February 28 Report Share Posted February 28 The place I used was definately in Brum, just googled, but nothing particularly rang a bell. I do remember it was a perfect job though. Might have been J&R trading, woth giving them a call first I think, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichW426 Posted March 6 Report Share Posted March 6 On 2/28/2024 at 1:49 PM, andygo said: The place I used was definately in Brum, just googled, but nothing particularly rang a bell. I do remember it was a perfect job though. Might have been J&R trading, woth giving them a call first I think, Will do, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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