MIkeyv60 Posted October 18, 2019 Report Share Posted October 18, 2019 1 hour ago, Jonttt said: Yes generally I think you are right but on this occasion they where actually cheaper than anywhere else I could find. I had to mix and match from various websites to get the best overall price. Agree it's all about shopping around and take discount codes with a pinch of salt. Agreed. Cant go wrong with Brembros Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvw Posted October 18, 2019 Report Share Posted October 18, 2019 12 minutes ago, MIkeyv60 said: Agreed. Cant go wrong with Brembros I'd never been completely happy with my 986 brakes to the point that I had the brake servo replaced. This improved things and I generally put it down to the lack of assistance and the fact that our Q5 has over aggressive brakes. Then on one pad and disc change, Bremos popped up at roughly the same price so I went with those instead of the Pagid ones I'd used before. The Brembo's were significantly better. Much greater stopping power, I wouldn't use anything else now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patt Posted October 18, 2019 Report Share Posted October 18, 2019 I found that replacing the seals in the front calipers made a big improvement...and with the bigger discs just loved them. However I am used to over braked cars. (already have a solution planned out for the 981) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonttt Posted October 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2019 Yep Porsche are infamous for having under assisted brakes compared to other marques so if your new to the brand they don’t “feel” as good but they are with the added advantage of actually having much better “feel” once you get used to them. The infamous “big reds” on my 993 are 24 years old now and still stop as well as anything on the market (granted the car is lighter than a modern car). People normally get the seals done with a paint refurb of the calipers but like any seal they can simply degrade in performance with age even on a relatively low mileage car where the caliper paint is in good condition. Anyway the Brembo discs just look the business lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonttt Posted October 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 Carbon Update ! I managed to track down some carbon interior grab handles from german ebay....... it helped that they where mis described as being for a 997.1 when they are clearly .2 ie completely different 😁 A bit of a faff over payment as the seller did not do paypal and did not really want to post overseas but a great deal was eventually done .....they arrived in pristine condition .......not the best of pics fitted as I fitted whilst the car is in winter storage but...... I was unsure weather to get these as the car has the full leather option and so it meant replacing a leather part rather than plastic but these are so rare I took the chance. They match the centre console perfectly so I'm pleased I got them in the end :thumb: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowbos Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 Carbontastic! I'd like to see your car in the flesh sometime... You should change your avatar to give it a carbon superhero theme Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonttt Posted November 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 Nothing exciting but an original Porsche Frunk Liner popped up on eBay for a very reasoanble price so I snapped it up. I've been surprised how rarely these seem to come up for sale second hand, probably due to them also fitting the 997's and I'm led to believe they will also (unofficially) fit 991's ie owners have been keeping hold of them as they change from 997 to 991 :?: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menoporsche Posted November 5, 2019 Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 On 10/25/2019 at 11:27 AM, rowbos said: Carbontastic! I'd like to see your car in the flesh sometime... His car has a worse carbon/flesh ratio than JohnK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patt Posted November 5, 2019 Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 I also saw a 987 rear mat pop up in the last week on the bay. I'm keeping an eye out for a 981/991 frunk liner for a friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonttt Posted April 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 So after just over 6 months in storage my boxster is back on the road........as it was stored under my office I have only driven it 6 miles home but will be using it for the occasional commute into work (I currently need to go into the office 2-3 times per week) ..........I had a few potential jobs from the end of last year that I put off.... Firstly the drivers side roof had started to occasionally overlap the plastic trim = the common failure of the elastic strap which pulls it under.....I had already ordered a piece of replacement stretch tape and so simply stabled a piece into place to provide the required pull.....worked a treat..... a little fiddly to work out the optimal roof position to be able to get two hands into the roof with a stapler but not too bad.... The second is I think the door lock microswitch on its way out......occasionally I had noticed that the window returned to the fully up position when the door handles where released which means the control unit does not realise the door is still open........a replacement requires a door strip down and although fiddly to get at the control unit in the door skin it is a DIY.....unfortunately unlike the microswitches in the door handles these are not separate in the door lock unit and so you have to buy the entire unit.......I’m not sure of the exact cost from Porsche (as the parts departments are shut at the moment due to the virus pandemic) but I do know there is a significant Porsche tax on them..........I’m led to believe they are actually a standard VW part but its listed for all VW Audi cars except Porsche.......given I can get the VW part for c£15 I thought I would take the risk lol.......if I end up needing to fit it and it does not fit I can always then revert to Porsche...... The official Porsche part for a 997.2 / 987.2 drivers side door is 3D2 837 016 (taken from a part supplied to a friend by Porsche for his 997.2) A bit of research shows the much cheaper than OEM VAG parts as: VAG Door Lock Module Part Numbers These parts seem to be common between all VAG vehicles (VW, Skoda, Audi, etc) Front Doors: 3D2 837 016 - Front Driver's Side/OSF 3D2 837 015 - Front Passenger's Side/NSF Rear Doors: 7L0 839 016 - Rear Driver's Side/OSR 7L0 839 015 - Rear Passenger's Side/NSR However I’m not 100% convinced yet that it is the microswitch as they usually either fail or do not and my problem is very intermittent ie it usually works fine......so it may just be a sticking mechanical part or an alignment problem ie the unit can be adjusted slightly if the door catch is not aligned correctly........so I’ll have a play around some more before I commit to removing the door panel and fitting the cheap VW part ..... As background for ease of reference here is the diagnostic to understand which microswitch is causing problems .... DOOR MICROSWITHES There are seven microswitches in each door which control the alarm system. Two are separate switches: a) One on the outside door handle. This switch is used to sense that the handle is lifted. b) One on the inside door handle, which has the same function. When the car is unlocked and either handle is lifted, this signals the alarm control module (ACM) to lower the appropriate window by 10mm, and turn on the interior lights. As soon as the door opens, another switch inside the door lock (explained later) tells the ACM that the door is open, which holds the window down until the door is closed, when the window is raised, and the dimming timer on the interior lights is started. Once the car is locked, the outside handle switches are ignored by the ACM. The remaining five switches are inside the door lock assembly: c) One switch senses if the door is open or closed. d) One senses that the key has been turned to the ‘lock’ position. e) Another senses that the key has been turned to the ‘unlock’ position. f) One senses that the door lock motor has reached the ‘lock’ position. g) Another senses that the door lock motor has reached the ‘unlock’ position. TYPICAL FAULTS All these microswitches can be problematic, and it is common for one or more to fail at some time. These are some of the common failures and symptoms: 1) The door window won’t drop when lifting a handle. This is usually the handle microswitch which has failed. 2) The window drops, but goes back up when the door opens. This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the ‘door open/closed microswitch’ (c) has stuck. Because the system thinks the door is still closed, it sends the window back up. 3) Door window won’t go up the last 10mm. This is likely to be the ‘door open/closed microswitch’ (c) stuck in the opposite sense to (2). The system thinks the door is still open, so won’t allow the window to go back up. Note that in this case the door will still lock, but you may get a single-beep from the alarm horn. 4) Door will not lock with key. The ‘key lock’ microswitch (d) is broken. This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used – most times the car is locked by remote. 5) Door will not unlock with key. The ‘key lock’ microswitch (e) is broken. This is also very rare, for the same reason. 6) Door locks, and then immediately unlocks, usually accompanied by a double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the ‘door locked’ microswitch (f). The locking motor physically operates the door lock, but the microswitch to sense this has failed/stuck. The ACM promptly unlocks the car. In this case, the only way to lock the door is to use the emergency locking procedure. Turn the key in the door to the lock position and back three times in quick succession. 7) The door unlocks, but there is a beep from the alarm horn. This is the ‘door unlocked’ microswitch (g). Although the door is unlocked, the ACM has not recognised that. The alarm will not sound, as turning the key in the lock has deactivated it. FIXES The inside and outside handle microswitches are available separately, and are not too expensive. Although alternative equivalent switches may be available, the genuine Porsche switch comes with a connector and wiring, so it makes sense to use an original.The door lock microswitches are not available separately. You have to buy the complete door lock assembly. A good (but long) reference video on both removing the door panel and replacing the lock control unit can be seen here ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonttt Posted April 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 So did some more investigating today on the door window drop problem......its getting more often ie I could replicate it today with a few goes of the door handle (after initially working fine).....but it does not fall into any of the categories of fault list in the fault finder above..... - unlock car ....everything as normal - go on run.......everything as normal......so shut door to try again.....everything as normal (ie pull interior handle = window drop, open door let go of handle - window stays down, close door again and window pops back up).......but on the 3rd test .......pulling the interior handle would not drop the window......pull handle all way to open door window catches and stays up.....I have to manually drop window, close door and manually ***** window back up....try again....same think for about 4/5 goes with various states of ignition (all above done whilst sat in car).....then all of sudden works fine again..... .....so at this point I have ascertained 1) interior drivers handle being pulled is not being recognised = inner door microswitch Go about my essential errands ....and have another trip...at the end I try again.........this time window drops but as soon as I let go of the handle after opening the door the window shoots back up.....if I pull the handle again it will not drop so have to manually drop to shut door and manually raise up.....I try again this time window won’t drop with handle pulled.......I play around again with the ignition in various states, set alarm / unset whilst in car etc....and eventually it starts working fine again.... ......so at this point it indicates door lock microswitch and inner door microswitch not working ? (Seems too much of a co-incidence).....off on another essential errand ..... .....pull up and try again.......window will not drop with inner door handle pulled.....so I reach across and try the passenger door handle ie pull to point of opening which should drop the window....it does not drop ...... .....to be honest I played around then with all sorts of scenarios including outer door handle and that would not drop the window intermitantly as well......it got to the point I had to manually put window down....get out shut door and hold locking button down to wind up windows.......I think this should also lock the car (but can;t remember 100%) but car is not locked......if pull the out handle to open the car the window does not drop and catches.....I therefore have to do the above and then “unlock” the car and immediately lock it = locked car with all windows up..... .....go back to car later = all working fine...... So on the above diagnostic both inner / outer door handle and locking microswitches are not working ......seems unlickely and then add in it also seems to affect the passenger door at the same time...... .....the only common factor is that the working, so far as I’m aware, are all controlled via the alarm controller ie it controls the dropping of the windows etc....... So does this mean I have a faulty alarm controllers I thought it may also be the window regulator but given it intermitandly seems to affect both sides I’ve also ruled that out ie alarm controller is the only common factor...... anybody else had these random symptoms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonttt Posted April 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2020 I have to travel into the office a few times a week during the current lockdown and so have sidelined the normal daily and am using the boxster :drive: ....... I took the opportunity to take some pics of the car on the Liverpool Pier Head where my office is located......its obviously never this quiet especially in tourist season (its one of the most photgraphed locations in the UK)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bally4563 Posted April 17, 2020 Report Share Posted April 17, 2020 Re window drop, had the same replaced micro switches in the locks, did not sort it, got a window regulator off a 2005 ( mine is 2007/8) Fitted this now my passenger window would not work or mirrors!!!!? Steve Strange of Douglas Valley Breakers, asked me to confirm my year told me Porsche did have issues with the ECU, sent me one off a 2008 plugged in, all perfect, point I'm trying to make it sounds like the drivers side motor/ECU is the culprit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bally4563 Posted April 17, 2020 Report Share Posted April 17, 2020 Just now, bally4563 said: Re window drop, had the same replaced micro switches in the locks, did not sort it, got a window regulator off a 2005 ( mine is 2007/8) Fitted this now my passenger window would not work or mirrors!!!!? Steve Strange of Douglas Valley Breakers, asked me to confirm my year told me Porsche did have issues with the ECU, sent me one off a 2008 plugged in, all perfect, point I'm trying to make it sounds like the drivers side motor/ECU is the culprit. Any chance you can get it plugged into a dognostic?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonttt Posted April 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2020 re the window issue.....I have been diagnosing it remotely with the help of a porsche indy mechanic on another forum.......we have narrowed it down to likely being a faulty drivers door lock unit but he wants to rule out being the rear control unit.....aparently on a 2011 987 the system control is shared between the alarm ECU and rear ECU.....he has experience both: - faulty door control unit connection causing the intermitant fault - the rear control unit "forgetting" and needing replacing (this has to be programmed to car) We think its the door control unit as thats the most common fault and I've source a VW part (which needs slight modification) for £15 new as a reserve if I cannot fix the unit fitted (ie the most common error is a solder joint)........but want to rule out the rear control unit first.......therefore I've ordered an iCarsoft POR v2 diagnostic unit which is being delivered in the next few days....that is supposed to be able to read the control units and flag up any errors they are reporting.........I'm 50:50 if that will help track down the problem as its so intermitant .......at the moment the only logic I can put on it is ....its fine in a morning and more likley to go wrong in the afternoon .......may be temp related which again may point to a faulty solder joint .......no doubt I'll have "fun" tracking it down.........this is what owning older cars is all about......you need to the faults to get to know them lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonttt Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 iCarsoft POR v2 Diagnostic user experience....... So I've had a problem with my UK spec 2011 987-2 Boxster S Black Edition ie the common window drop on door open failure.......its been sparodic and inconsitent in presentation and is more than likely down to a poor / failing solder in the drivers door locking mechanism........but it could be other control units involved in the process........this is something which cannot be diagnosed using a generic OBD2 connector ie generic OBD2 readers can only read generic input which is standard across all car makes (not just Porsche) ....when more specific control unit readings / diagnosis are required a car specific diagnostic machine is needed...... ......So although the likely cause of the problem was known I decided to take the opportunity to buy a specialist diagnostic device for the car...... Some quick google research led to a few options but one consistant, modern, easy to use solution kept on popping up on the best / recommended buys.....the iCarSoft POR v2........this is designed to use on a wide range of Porsche models ie not just a 2011 Boxster.......so far as I can tell there are versions for various car makes eg mercedes, BMW etc....with the POR being the designated Porsche version......there is even a version that will do many makes of cars, which is not that more expensive and so may be a good option if you have a larger fleet of "out of warranty" cars (the iCarsoft CR v2 which I think does x10 different makes of car including Porsche)....... I purchased mine from ukpartsdirect using their eBay store for £136 delivered.....it took 3 days from order to arrive (even in virus pandemic restrictions) ....... I've decided to write this user experience as I simply could not find a lot of detail on this diagnostic device for the Porsche other than basic specs ie I was not even sure what control modules it can "see" / diagnose / error find / error clear / etc.......before ordering and the actual user manual when you do get it is very generic and not specific to the Porsche tests is actually capable of doing...... Hopefully others will find this of use......it is worth noting I'm not endorsing this unit in any way.....I have not used any other (other than a cheap bluetooth OBD2 generic reader)........and so I have nothing to compare it to / against for the more modern Porsches.....my only other experience of Porsche diagnostic devices is the original OPC Bosche "Hammer" I have for my 993, given that is c25 years old technology.....cost me >£1,000, is original Porsche diagnostic equipment and is like rocking horse poo to find ......its not really a fair comparison to an off the shelf relatively cheap device.... So what do you get......well you get a nice box..... and in that you get a nice case...... and in that you get a nice quality / feel device and associated cables..... the cables are: - a serial to OBD2 connector cable (for in the car diagnosis) - a USB to mini USB cable (for connection to a computer) power is supplied to the unit either via the in car OBD2 port or computer USB cable ie it has no seperate power cable or battery requirements. Next to the mini USB connector there is a micro card slot. This comes preinstalled with a 256MB card. I have not tested out what this card holds but the unit does have a facility to record test results which are written to this card......it may hold the actual dignosis software but I have not bothered to check that as I presume its either hidden or on programmable memory within the unit ie to avoid piracy ? So the first thing the very generic manual tells you to do is to connect the device up to a computer via the included USB cable to update the software / firmware........to facilite this you do need to download and install some driver software from the iCarSoft website first so make sure you have admin rights to install software to whichever computer you are going to use..... The software installed without any issues and when the devices USB is then plugged in it is recognised as a new drive by the computer. The installed software can then be ran to check for software / firmware updates.... mine actually showed that it had the lastest software already installed and so there was no actual need to update.... Now that the device is powered on whilst connected to a computer you are able to "play around" with it. This will however only allow you to do so much as to actually carry out any diagnosis or even see detailed sub menus of what modules can be tested for requires the device to actually be connected to the car.... so the main menu screen.... This shows options for (nb more detail on each later): - Diagnosis (the main purpose of the machine) - Service (this allows you to reset service lights etc....) - Voltage (allows you to read battery voltages) - OBD2 (this allows you to use the device on other makes of cars but only for generic / common OBD2 tests) - Review (you can store test results for historical comparisons) - DTC lookup (you can type in an error code to see the narrative if required) - Setup (some basic setting such as imperial / metric units of measurement) - Help - About The menu item you will use the most is the Diagnostic menu. When you press this it presents you with ......1 option ie Porsche.....I presume the x10 make model would present various options at this point ? you are then asked to choose between 2 versions. I have no idea what difference there is between each as there was nothing obvious on some quick later trials save that a few messages are worded slightly differently. I simply chose what I presumed was the later v11.25... This then takes you to a model selection screen(s).... If you choose a model you are then asked if you want the machine to "smart scan" which modules it can connect to our you can choose a "manual" scan to see all possible modules for that model of car..... To progress any further you obviously have to have the unit connected to the cars OBD2 port and not a computer ! So before I go into exmaples of my diagnosis of my 987's fault I thought it worthwhile summarising the different modules its possible to connect to for each model of Porsche it lists.....it is worth noting that later software versions may changes this list but this is as per my up to date software version as shown above..... Using v11.25 of the Porsche Software installed choices: Models selectable: 911 - 996, 997, 991 GT2 - 996 GT3 - 996 Boxster (presumably Cayman as well) - 986, 987, 981, 982 (ie 718) Cayman Carrera GT Cayenne (9PA to 2010, 92A from 2011) Macan Panamera - 970 It is also worth noting that although you can see modules for each model of Porsche you cannot access the sub menus unless the car is connected. Therefore I can only detail the individual sub menus that are available for my car, a 987 boxster...... I will therefore start with the 987 Boxster as that is the most detailed information I have on the unit....... DIAGNOSIS menu option......... Boxster 987 (nb same for Cayman option without module 13) * Manual Scans possible with the current software = 20 possible control modules # Auto Scan of my car = 14 control units ie 6 modules can't be connected to my car eg Tiptronic control as its a manual car....... Auto scan of the modules whch can be connected to... 1 - DME (Digital engine Electronics)*# - A/C Request - Clutch Switch - Cruise Control decelerate / resume - Cruise Control readiness - Cruise Control store / accelerate - Full load recognition - Idle recognition - Immobiliser - Start enable switch - Stop light switch - Ambient pressue from DME - Vehicle speed from PSM - DME supply voltage - Nominal idle speed - Radiator fan request value - A/C pressure - Fuel Level - Warm-up Cycle counter - Engine load (SAEJ 1979) - Engine speed - Engine load - Altitude correction faction from DME - Idle loss adaption - Fuel injection time - Time as of end of starting - DME operating time since powerfail - Distance since powerfail - Distance with Check Engine On - Driving cycle counter 2 - TCM (Tiptronic Transmission Control)* - unknown sub menus as cannot connect to ie control module not present on a manual car 3 - PSM (Porsche Stability Management)*# - Brake fluid level switch - Brake test switch - Combination sensor self-test - PSM OFF button - Parking brake switch - Return pump (RFP) - Stop light switch - Valve relay - Brake light switch voltage - Front left speed - Front right speed - Lateral acceleration sensor - Pressure sensor - Rate of turn sensor - Speed, rear left - Speed, rear right - Vehcile leectrical system battery - Engine coding (CAN) - Engine speed (CAN) - PSM passive signal (CAN) - Sport mode switch (CAN) - Status of steering angle sensor (CAN) - Steering angle sensor ID (CAN) - Steering angle sensor (CAN) - Transmission coding (CAN) - Vehicle model (CAN) - Vehicle speed (CAN) - Vehicle type (CAN) 4 - POSIP (Porsche Supplement Impact Protection)*# - AWS circuit 2 deactivated - Belt buckle on driver side - Belt buckle on passenger side - Key switch circuit 1 - Key switch circuit 2 - POSIP triggering device - Passenger airbag OFF indicator light - Triggering event 1 - Triggering event 2 - Triggering event 3 - Weight Class 0 - Weight Class 1 - Weight Class 2 - Weight Class 3 - Weight Class 4 - Resisitor, roll over bar triggering solonoid - Resisitor, roll over bar triggering solonoid - Operating time 5 - IC (Instrument Cluster)*# - ParkAssistant frequency - Supply voltage terminal 30 - External dimming of orientation light - Dimming display - Photo transistor brightness - Speed - Clutch early switch actuated - Washer fluid level - Non-compensated oil level - Oil lvl 1st comp.stage Zoil lvlKomp1 - Oil lvl 1st comp.stage Zoil lvlKomp2 - Oil lvl 1st comp.stage Zoil lvlKomp3 - Oil temperature when measured - Time in instrument cluster when oil level measured - Voltage difference at oil probe contact - Sensor value - Short distance - Total distance - Fuel level 6 - AC (Air Condition)*# - Air distribution bottom button - Air distribution centre button - Air distribution top button - Auto button - Button for left seat heating - Button for right seat heating - CAN compressor shutdown - Compressor request - Compressor run-in phase ended - Compressor status - Defrost button - ECO button - Engine running signal - Fan plus button - Heated rear window button - Re circuit Air button - RPM increase - RPM decrease - Seat ventilation button, left - Seat ventilation button, right - Temperature decrease button - Temperature increase button - CAN ambient temperature - Intake temperature - Inside temperature - Outlet temperature - CAN engine temperature - Temperature mixing flap, nominal - Temperature mixing flap, actual - Central flap, nominal - Central flap, actual - Footwell/defroster flap, nominal - Footwell/defroster flap, actual - Outside air/re circuit air flap, nominal - Outside air/re circuit air flap, actual - Activation voltage fresh air fan - Supply Voltage terminal 30 - Sensor supply voltage (5V) - CAN vehicle speed - CAN engine speed - Sun intensity - Refrigerant pressure - Inside sensor fan speed - Compressor current - Compressor activation - Compressor speed - Compressor load moment - Evaporator temperature 7 - GW (Gateway)*# - Minimal after-running time until bus idle - Power supply - Warning thresholds - CPU-load - Comfort CAN - Terminal 15'PAS CAN' - Terminal 15'hardware PAS' - Terninal S'PAS CAN' - Wake-up line' display CAN' 8 - VES (Vehicle Electrical System)*# - Button for front lid opener - Button for rear lid opener - Button for rear spoiler - Button for unlocking rear window - Filler flap release - Fog light - Fog tail light - Parking contact for front wipers - Rain sensor - Reversing light - Sport button - Terminal 30G - Terminal 30G - Seat heating - Washing system pump - Wiper - Terminal 30 9 - PAS (Porsche Access System)*# - Brake Switch A circuit - Clutch (CAN drive) - Feedback terminal 15 - Feedback terminal 50 - Selector lever position P - Power Supply - Current key number 10 - PAM (Park Assistant Module)*# - ParkAssistant accoutstic warning status - ParAssistant status - Sensor voltage status (PDC-internal) - Speed-dependant switch-off threshold - Status of terminal 15 - Supply voltage status - Transmission type - Transport/production mode - Removal of outer right sensor - Removal of inner right sensor - Removal of inner left sensor - Removal of outer left sensor - Overall distance value, rear - Power Supply - Power supply, sensors - Selected gear - Vehicle speed (CAN) - Sensor, left inside, fault - Sensor, left outside, fault - Sensor, right inside, fault - Sensor, right outside, fault - Removal of right sensor pair - Removal of centre sensor pair - Removal of left sensor pair 11 - SCS (Steering Column Switch)*# - Horn - Direction indicator lights - High beam / headlight flasher - Wiper stage - Rear wiper / washer system - Wiping interval potentiometer - Speed control system button - Speed control system on/off - Power supply 12 - TPM (Tire Pressue Monitoring)* - unknown sub menus as cannot connect to ie control module not present on my car 13 - DSM (Drivers Memory Seat)* nb not on Cayman menu - unknown sub menus as cannot connect to ie control module not present on my car 14 - DDM (Drivers Door Module)*# - Central locking supply voltage - Close door lock barrel - Door contact switch/rotary latch active - Door handle button, inner - Door handle button, outer - Open door lock barrel - Status of lock: locked - Status of lock: saved - Button-auto-close passenger power window - Button-auto-close power window - Button-auto-open passenger power window - Button-auto-open power window - Button-manually close passenger power window - Button-manually close power window - Button-manually open passenger power window - Button-manually open power window - Front power window change-over switch - Power window supply voltage - Rear power window change-over switch - Status of key button (1) - Status of key button (2) - Status of key button (3) - Status of memory switch (M) - Exterior mirror heating - Mirror glass vertical position (-) - Mirror horizontal position (+) - Mirror horizontal position (-) - Mirror vertical position (+) - Driver mirror change-over switch - Passenger mirror change-over switch - Power window motor thermal protection - Window end position - Central locking supply voltage - Power window supply voltage - Mirror glass horizontal position - Mirror glass vertical position - Status of driver power window button - Status of passenger power window button - Status of front and rear power window button - Status of memory switch (M) - Status of mirror change-over switch - Status of mirror adjustment switch - Status of door lock barrel - Status of door lock - Status of key/person button (1-3) - Mirror power supply voltage 15 - PDM (Passenger's Door Module)*# - Central locking supply voltage - Door contact switch/rotary latch active - Door handle button, inner - Door handle button, outer - Status of lock: locked - Status of lock: saved - Button-auto-close power window - Button-auto-open power window - Button-manually close power window - Button-manually open power window - Power window supply voltage - Status of key button (1) - Status of key button (2) - Status of key button (3) - Status of memory switch (M) - Exterior mirror heating - Mirror glass vertical position (-) - Mirror horizontal position (+) - Mirror horizontal position (-) - Mirror vertical position (+) - Driver mirror change-over switch - Passenger mirror change-over switch - Power window motor thermal protection - Window end position - Central locking supply voltage - Power window supply voltage - Mirror glass horizontal position - Mirror glass vertical position - Status of driver power window button - Status of passenger power window button - Status of front and rear power window button - Status of memory switch (M) - Status of mirror change-over switch - Status of mirror adjustment switch - Status of door lock barrel - Status of door lock - Status of key/person button (1-3) - Mirror power supply voltage 16 - WATCH (Additional Instrument - Watch)* - unknown sub menus as cannot connect to ie control module not present on my car 17 - PASM (Porsche Active Suspension Management)* - my car does have PASM but I swapped out the OEM controller for a DSC aftermarket unit and so therefore it cannot be seen by the diagnostic device 18 - AWS (Advanced Weight System)* - unknown sub menus as cannot connect to ie control module not present on my car 19 - FECM (Front-End Electronics Control Module)*# - Button for front lid opener - Button two-tone horn/horn(via CAN) - Daytime driving light active via PCM - Direction indication left - Direction indication right - Engine running (via CAN) - Hazard warning light switch - Headlight flasher button (via CAN) - Left door lock contact (via CAN) - Microswitch emergency release of front lid - Microswitch front lid lock - Right door lock contact (via CAN) - Status of radiator fan control - Status of right parking light / side light - Status of right side direction indicator light - Status servo drive locking hook activation - Switch for left parking light - Switch for right parking light - Switch dipped beam (driving light) - Switch driving light assistant - Swtich fog light - Switch full beam - Switch rear fog light - Terminal 15 - Terminal 15 redundant - Terminal 86S (key contact) - Wheel speed signal / vehcile speed signal - Power right dipped beam (driving light) - Fog light current - High beam current - Supply voltage (terminal 30) - Signal voltage angle wens.of front compression - Signal voltage angle wens.of rear compression - Power left dipped beam (driving light) - HBA, steering angle sensor, amount 20 - RECM (Rear-End Control Module)*# - Bottom Spoiler - Central locking system button - Convertable top closed - Convertible top open - Glove compartment - Latching hook - Rear luggage compartment / engine compartment - Top spoiler So for my car the unit cannot see TCM, TPM, DSM, WATCH, PASM, AWS. My car does have PASM BUT I have the aftermarket DSC PASM controller fitted and so that is why it can't see that module. The way the device works is that when you have chosen which control modules you want to see (ie Smart Scan or Manual) you can scroll through each .....eg here I have scrolled to the DDM (Drivers Door Module).... The device checks it can communicate with the control module and if it can presents you with 4 options: - Module information (this provides things like part number) - Read Fault Code - Clear Fault Code - View Data Eg Module Information for the DDM..... if you then choose Read Fault Codes.... This fault was what I was looking for and help confirm that module is causing my window problems.... NB the problem with fault codes is that there is no "time stamp" on them so you do not know when they occured. It is possible for fault codes to be shown which have since been rectified or have been caused by other problems.....therefore the process should always be: - check for fault codes - clear any fault codes - recheck for fault codes That way you can be sure that the fault code is current and related to the current problem you are trying to diagnose..... and so when I recheck for a fault code... I can now wait for a problem and recheck for an error code It is worth noting that I also found some other fault codes which seem to be related: Vehicle Electrical System.... FECM (front end control module)..... RECM (Rear end control module).... All helping to confirm there is a problem with with the DDM (Drivers Door Module) All where cleared to be checked the next time I have a problem. The last of the 4 initial module options "View Data" then allows you to go into the sub menus (listed above) to carry out specific tests eg... if you want to check a switch is working eg the "Auto Air Con"... Go into the AC module... Choose the Auto button test... It will show it as not activated.... If you now press the button..... it will show it as activated as you press it.... nb this is NOT a test as to whether the air con is working but simply to test the auto button is.....if the climate will not go onto auto you therefore know its not a faulty button.....there are other tests for the actual air con system as per the menu system. eg So thats it for a 987 ie diagnosis with detailed sub menu checks that can be carried out......it is worth noting that you have to fault check each module seperately ie you cannot just press a button and it fault checks every control module it can connect to and report a list of faults. So what about the other models of Porsche the unit can read. Well I can't see the sub menus without connecting to an actual car of that model but I can see the main control modules that it may be possible to connect to if the car has them..... so for each model...... 911 (992) As you would expect there are totally different control modules for the latest cars compared to a 2011 Boxster above and the system showed a total of 29 being: also note the 981 & 982 are the same but exclude modules 19&20 ie no rear door modules 1 - DME 2 - TCM 3 - PSM 4 - Airbag 5 - IC 6 - Air condition 7 - Gateway 8 - Parking Brake Module 9 - Parking Assistant Module 10 - Electonic Power Steering 11 - Steering wheel module 12 - Headlight control unit - central 13 - Headlight Beam Adjustment - left 14 - Headlight Beam Adjustment - right 15 - Drivers Memory Seat 16 - Passengers Memory Seat 17 - Drivers Door Module 18 - Passengers Door Module 19 - Rear Left Door 20 - Rear Right Door 21 - Convertable Top Module 22 - Additional Instrument Watch 23 - Selector Lever Module 24 - Level Control Module 25 - Front end Electronics Control Module 26 - Rear end Electronics Control Module 27 - TV Tuner 28 - External Amplifier 29 - Radio 911 (996) has 8 control modules: nb the 986 is the same but excludes module 8 for the convertable top (not sure why, must be controlled differently, 997 to 987 seems the same with the boxster not actually having a seperate roof controller) 1 - DME 2 - Tiptronic Transmission Control 3 - ABS 4 - Airbag 5 - Instrument Cluster 6 - Air Condition 7 - Park Assistant 8 - Convertable Top GT2 & GT3 (996) 1 - ABS 2 - Airbag 3 - Instrument Cluster 4 - Air Condition 997 has 23 control modules: as per the x20 987 above plus 3 additional 1 - Porsche Traction Management 2 - Convertable Top 3 - Sun Roof Carrera GT has 1 - ABS 2 - Airbag 3 - Instrument Cluster 4 - Air Condition 5 - Tire Pressure Monitor Cayenne (9PA) to 2010 has 1 - DME 2 - Tiptronic Transmission Control 3 - Transfer Case Control 4 - PSM 5 - Airbag 6 - Instrument Cluster 7 - Air Condition 8 - Gateway 9 - Vehicle Electrical System 10 - Keyless Entry and Drive 11 - Park Assistant 12 - Steering Column Switch 13 - Headlight Control - left 14 - Headlight Control - right 15 - Headlight Beam Adjustment - left 16 - Headlight Beam Adjsutment - right 17 - Drivers Memeory Seat 18 - Passengers Memory Seat 19 - Rear Door 20 - Tail Door 21 - Sun Roof 22 - Advanced Weight System 23 - PDCC / offroad roll bar 24 - Trailer Hitch 25 - Auxiliary Heater 26 - Level Control 27 - Magnetic Field Sensor 28 - Transverse Lock 29 - Wiper Cayenne (92A) from 2011 and Macan (excluding #) and Panamera (970) (excluding *) 1 - DME 2 - Tiptronic Transmission Control 3 - PSM 4 - Airbag 5 - Instrument Cluster 6 - Air Condition 7 - Air Condition Compressor # 8 - Gateway 9 - Parking Brake 10 - Park Assistant 11 - Electric Power Steering 12 - Steering Wheel 13 - Tire Pressure Monitor 14 - All Wheel Drive * (Panamera has Headlight Control Unit instead) 15 - Headlight Beam Adjustment - left # (Macan Central option, no left / right) 16 - Headlight Beam adjustment - right # 17 - Adaptive Cruise Control 18 - Drivers Memeory Seat 19 - Passengers Memory Seat 20 - Drivers Door Module 21 - Passengers Door Module 22 - Rear Left Door 23 - Rear Right Door 24 - Rear Lid 25 - Additional Compass Instrument * 26 - Additonal Instrument WATCH 27 - PDCC / offroad roll bar # 28 - High Voltage Battery # 29 - High Voltage Power Electronic # 30 - Lane Change Assist 31 - Rear Differential Lock 32 - Trailer Hitch 33 - Auxiliary Heater 34 - Level Control 35 - Front-end Electronics Control 36 - Rear-end Electronics Control 37 - PCM / CD Radio 38 - Front Camera 39 - Reversing Camera 40 - TV Tuner 41 - External Amplifier + MACAN has: - Reducing Agent System - Sound Composer + Panamera has: - Selector Lever Module Hopefully the above will help owners with other Porsche models have some idea of what control modules can be checked. So what about the other device main menu options other than the main diagnosis.... SERVICE Goes to a sub menu VOLTAGE... OBD2.... Allows you to read generic manufacture fault codes across other makes ie other than Porsche, as per any generic OBD2 reader...some exmaples (I did not photograph everything)..... REVIEW.... This is a nice feature as you have the option to save an error code to a test and review it later even after fault codes have been cleared.....it means you can compare test results over time... DTC Lookup.... You can type in a code to get a narrative... SETUP So there you have it......I hope you have found this useful to understand what a 3rd party specialist diagnostic machine should be able to do and how it can help you understand / trace problems with your cars...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrbikerdood Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 7 minutes ago, Jonttt said: So there you have it......I hope you have found this useful to understand what a 3rd party specialist diagnostic machine should be able to do and how it can help you understand / trace problems with your cars...... I bought the same few months back,great bit of kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonttt Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 So after clearing all of the fault codes from the car ......I waited for the driver window to fail to work properly so I could recheck the codes.......of course it then worked perfectly for the rest of the day....and the day after :roll: ......but then last night it started to play up again with the driver window not dropping on opening and closing the door..... So I ran through all the 14 control modules and found that they where all clear apart from the DDM (Drivers Door Module)... So I think that confirms it.... the drivers door lock control unit is at fault :roll: .....my £15 ebay special VW Golf v5 part has arrived .....so hopefully at the weekend I will be tackling its replacement......I'm not looking forward to it as its a fiddly job and requires the drivers door card and fragile inner metal membrane to be removed.....luckily I have spare door car clips which I got from the OPC last year as removal of the door card to fix this type of problem is pretty common on these cars. As the clips are part of the waterproof barrier in the inner membrane you don't want to be putting the door card back on without replacing any broken clips or clips which cannot be reset....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonttt Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 7 minutes ago, mrbikerdood said: I bought the same few months back,great bit of kit Yep I'm really pleased with it......its weird as you'd think there would be a lot more to test with more modern cars than my 993.....there is not much differences other than vacume switches have been replaced with electronic micro switches ......its much more fun with the 993 though as it has a c20ft lead so you can walk around the car as your using it, press a button and watch all sorts of servos move about.......its like a proper kids toy 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khaa1329 Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 Great write up and looks a great bit of kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdyG Posted April 29, 2020 Report Share Posted April 29, 2020 @Jonttt, Hi an excellent write up on what looks like a great piece of kit for the money. On the off chance do you know if it has the functionality to activate retrofits such as the multi changer and steering wheel controls or would that still require either a Durametric or PWIS? Many thanks Ady Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menoporsche Posted April 29, 2020 Report Share Posted April 29, 2020 On 4/21/2020 at 3:58 PM, Jonttt said: iCarsoft POR v2 Diagnostic user experience....... Jon that FREAKING MASSIVE post should be copied and you paste it into a new thread in How To forum, title something like How To use the iCarsoft Diagnostics. It's really helpful and is such a shame to just be buried in among here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonttt Posted April 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2020 Will do 😉 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonttt Posted May 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 Bluetooth Battery Meter Review..... So in these Virus Lockdown days the Boxster has been used a few days per week for a short commute into work but then has been stood for days without use.....although the commute runs are great with light traffic the car is just not getting the sort of run out it would normally....so I've started to wonder on the state of the battery.......I could maneauver cars around the driveway and put it on trickle charge but it would be nice to just "know" if the battery is OK or when it really needs charging......I checked out what options CTEK had to go with the charger (which already has the plug into battery connector with a status light but I find that unreliable)....sure enough they have a bluetooth device that can be left permanently on the battery with a phone app connecting to it......but its >£50 and ideally I would like x2 (ie one for the 993 and 987). The absolute ideal would be to be able to connect to either and know which car I was seeing.......so I thought it worthwhile googling alternative options ........a popular google find was a unit which seemed identical on pics but was badged up as different names with prices around £30-£40......then I stumbled on an ebay seller who seemed to be selling the same unit for £19 delivered and had sold >300 of them..... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Car-Battery-Monitor-Bluetooth-BM2-Voltage-Meter-Battery-Tester-Analyzer/264502444967?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 So the sensible head said "worth a shout for £19" ...order one and see what its like......so I ordered x2 😁 Delivered in less than 3 days.......fitted and up and running with the app in less than 30 min on two cars with both identified by name.......it is simply a very impressive gadget and app for £19 delivered....whats not to like.... Install is very simple via C connectors simply placed inbetween the negative and positive terminals on the battery.....the app is installed from a link on the device and auto connects via bluetooth....then simply use the app settings to replace the device code with whatever you want to call the car....... Comes in a simple plastic package.... just the device and pretty good instructions mainly about the app as the actual install is so simple... A good quality metal C connector means it can be bent without fear of snapping to make a neat install as needed.... Online features and guides seem none existant hence me writing this guide for this device.....here is the manual in full for reference as to how it works and features in use... and a very simple install....just loosen the terminal bolts enough to slide the C clip in and tighten back up.....the gap between the battery and frunk seal was perfect to simply hold the main unit in place without needing to secure it further......ps I also have the CTEK connector installed on this battery..... It connected quickly, I renamed the device connected to in the app settings and the first reading did indeed show a lower than ideal voltage given only infrequent short trips in the past few weeks ie not having chance to charge back up through use... Cranking Voltage was however fine on starting the car which was what I experienced in practice ie no indication on starting that the battery was down to c50% charge. So I connected the CTEK up to recharge the battery... and as expected all was fine just a few hours on charge later... So what was it like to use.......well simple and pretty fun...it just worked without any messing around......my car was parked on the drive close to the house and from my lounge my phone connected to it so I could take readings remotely without leaving the house......I'll be able to do that at any time to keep tabs on the battery whenever I like......the unit is obviously ON 100% of the time so not sure what power drain will be like but it uses the latest bluetooth standards so I expect it has a sleep mode to reduce power drain simply waiting for something to connect to it..... There is more which I've not had chance to check out yet.... The settings can be configured to auto take a reading every set time limit ...the unit itself keeps records for 31 days so as long as you connect your phone to it at least once every 31 days you keep a full history of the battery, when the car was stated and stopped (trips).... these are all downloaded historically to the phone on connection ..... ..you can set alerts so if the battery charge drops below x% you get a warning on your phone the next time it connects....eg as you get in the car Some pretty neat features in such a cheap device.... Time will tell just how useful it is in practice but lockdown is a time if ever I will need it even if just for piece of mind......I'm not sure if I will leave the app to run in the background on my phone as present ...advantage is auto notifications but not sure what battery drain on my phone will be like... So in summary what appears to be a useful and slick bit of kit if you have a car which is not ran every day nor left on trickle charge when not in use for extended periods :thumb: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowbos Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 ^ This looks very neat ^ Nice write up chap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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