What have YOU done to your 986 today ?

[edc]

18 hours ago, andy340r said:

I was looking for that procedure earlier ... as I was searching MAF reset I couldn't find it.  Much quicker to find things if you know the correct expression.  Thanks!

Just turn the ignition on, leave on and don't touch anything for 1-2 mins. You'll here the throttle plate twiddle over the electrical hum, then you're basically done. 

[RedBarediver]

Replaced my ignition switch today. What fun. All of the videos and guidance on here and elsewhere are super helpful but it seems my 986 is special...The screws keeping the switch in place on mine face the wrong way. Every single photograph and video I have seen shows the screw heads visible from below. In other words you unscrew in the same direction as you're looking. You can see the screw head on the first one. On mine the screw heads point towards the top of the car - not the bottom. First one wasn't so bad but the second took loads of guesswork and swearing to get the little screwdriver bit in the right place. Then of course you can't fit anything else but my huge hands and a tiny screwdriver bit in there (at a very awkward angle) and it's almost impossible to exert any force to turn the thing. Also, just to add to my joy I managed to drop the bit into the fusebox. Visions of an electrical short circuit that would burn out all the electrics and cost a me a fortune. Took the fusebox apart and fished out the offending bit. Finally managed to get everything squared away and now the ignition switch is nice and firm with no play anymore.

Not doing that again. I would rather sell the car!

[RedBarediver]

On 12/24/2020 at 2:31 PM, Halfordwill said:

Make sure you have the right switch they changed slightly around the facelift time, other than that it’s not a horrendous job easier with the roof off and legs flailing around in the air😂

I should have put the roof down - it might have made it easier. For what it's worth if I ever have to do it again I think I'll go in from the side. It was two hours of swearing this time...

Edited December 26, 2020 by RedBarediver

[beicmynydd]

After most of the day building lego I managed an hour in the shed to fit new flexible brake hoses to the new brake lines. Hope to re fit the small brackets and small steel pipe to the caliper next. 

[the baron]

Not driven it in weeks and week’s 

[Welly_59]

I bought a DA polisher with the intention of completing a paint correction before the end of this week. So far I have compounded the bonnet....got all the swirls out and working on the deeper scratches, but don't want to go too deep. 0lan is to compound/polish/wax just half the car at first so I can see the difference

[JL888]

Snowed today, not much settled on the ground but forecasts says more to come later. So I went out to fit the set of winter wheels on her for good measure.❄️

[Pacoryan]

Tried to change the front drop links, one side was easy, on the driver side the top bolt that passes through the hub carrier is proper stuck. Even with my most convincing persuasion tool it won’t budge.

left it soaking in WD and today I shall deploy heat. If that doesn’t work, Christ knows.

[½cwt]

1 hour ago, Pacoryan said:

Tried to change the front drop links, one side was easy, on the driver side the top bolt that passes through the hub carrier is proper stuck. Even with my most convincing persuasion tool it won’t budge.

left it soaking in WD and today I shall deploy heat. If that doesn’t work, Christ knows.

It needs heat and lots of working back and forth with a breaker bar and or good impact wrench. Where are you in the country, a few of us have magnetic induction heaters which we've found to be a massive help, still not easy but makes it possible, estimate 15-20 mins work to get it out even using heat.  I got the whole upright off my car and even hitting with well aimed blows a 14lb sledge hammer made no difference at which point I invested in the induction heater.  One other member used a press and said it took 5 tonnes to move it!

Basically the steel rod and the alloy casting corrode together. WD, Plus Gas etc often have little effect.  You need to cut the link end off the rod to expose the 17mm hex end so you can get on it properly.  When it does come out you get lots of fine off white powder which is the aluminium oxide that has built up in the bore of the hole.  Use lots of assembly compound (Coppaslip, AL1100 or similar) when you reassemble in case you need to get them off aging in a few years.

[bally4563]

51 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

It needs heat and lots of working back and forth with a breaker bar and or good impact wrench. Where are you in the country, a few of us have magnetic induction heaters which we've found to be a massive help, still not easy but makes it possible, estimate 15-20 mins work to get it out even using heat.  I got the whole upright off my car and even hitting with well aimed blows a 14lb sledge hammer made no difference at which point I invested in the induction heater.  One other member used a press and said it took 5 tonnes to move it!

Basically the steel rod and the alloy casting corrode together. WD, Plus Gas etc often have little effect.  You need to cut the link end off the rod to expose the 17mm hex end so you can get on it properly.  When it does come out you get lots of fine off white powder which is the aluminium oxide that has built up in the bore of the hole.  Use lots of assembly compound (Coppaslip, AL1100 or similar) when you reassemble in case you need to get them off aging in a few years.

At least it’s a front, rears are worse as you cannot swivel the hub to give you better access, as mentioned heat is the key, and if you are make sure you get abs cables etc out of the way

[Pacoryan]

48 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

It needs heat and lots of working back and forth with a breaker bar and or good impact wrench. Where are you in the country, a few of us have magnetic induction heaters which we've found to be a massive help, still not easy but makes it possible, estimate 15-20 mins work to get it out even using heat.  I got the whole upright off my car and even hitting with well aimed blows a 14lb sledge hammer made no difference at which point I invested in the induction heater.  One other member used a press and said it took 5 tonnes to move it!

Basically the steel rod and the alloy casting corrode together. WD, Plus Gas etc often have little effect.  You need to cut the link end off the rod to expose the 17mm hex end so you can get on it properly.  When it does come out you get lots of fine off white powder which is the aluminium oxide that has built up in the bore of the hole.  Use lots of assembly compound (Coppaslip, AL1100 or similar) when you reassemble in case you need to get them off aging in a few years.

Thanks for this, my weedy little heat gun certainly isn’t going to cut the mustard!  Shame because the L/H one just took a few taps with a drift.  My drift now resembles a banana after attempts on the R/H one!  I can see the corrosion so figured that was the problem, and was just about to try and cut the old link off to try and get a socket on it.  I’m working on axle stands in a singe garage so space for leverage is limited.

I’m near Wimborne in Dorset, technically Bournemouth so went in to tier 4 this am :o( but I shall research induction heaters over my coffee, thanks!

MoT notification just came through for 27th Jan, this was my one “to do” before then but I can’t spend four weeks on it!!

[Pacoryan]

Cheers bally4563 too, yes I made sure I tucked away anything I might melt unintentionally!  Good call re. The rears - not touching those right now!

[½cwt]

7 minutes ago, Pacoryan said:

Thanks for this, my weedy little heat gun certainly isn’t going to cut the mustard!  Shame because the L/H one just took a few taps with a drift.  My drift now resembles a banana after attempts on the R/H one!  I can see the corrosion so figured that was the problem, and was just about to try and cut the old link off to try and get a socket on it.  I’m working on axle stands in a singe garage so space for leverage is limited.

I’m near Wimborne in Dorset, technically Bournemouth so went in to tier 4 this am :o( but I shall research induction heaters over my coffee, thanks!

MoT notification just came through for 27th Jan, this was my one “to do” before then but I can’t spend four weeks on it!!

If you want to buy one:

FlowerW Induction Heater 1000W Mini Ductor Hand-held Induction Bolt Heater Induction Innovation with LED Light for Automotive Flameless Heat Paint-Less Dent Repair: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

[½cwt]

Well, final day of transition:

Before

 

After

 

Yes, I know it is filthy but it is actually being used in December....

[the baron]

15 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Well, final day of transition:

Before

 

After

 

Yes, I know it is filthy but it is actually being used in December....

I just cut mine down and rounded the edges off, looks stock

[Knobgoblin]

Finally got to drive my boxster instead of doing stuff to it. Had her past spoiler activation speeds 3 nights on the trot, most miles ive done in it since September! Temps stay good and everything is working instead of breaking 😄

Have to say my half cover has stopped water ingress so until better weather when I can figure out whats going on am just going to enjoy getting her out on the road most days!

 

[andy340r]

I have no record of the water pump being changed and I wanted to replace the thermostat with a low temp version, so while I was in there I decided that I may as well swap out the engine mount.  There were no particular signs but it just show s that these should be replaced every so often

Original on the left is certainly starting to break apart after 97K miles.  There were some vibrations on idle that you could feel through the car and steering wheel, nothing too extreme just a feint tremor ... now those are gone.  

[Halfordwill]

2 hours ago, andy340r said:

I have no record of the water pump being changed and I wanted to replace the thermostat with a low temp version, so while I was in there I decided that I may as well swap out the engine mount.  There were no particular signs but it just show s that these should be replaced every so often

Original on the left is certainly starting to break apart after 97K miles.  There were some vibrations on idle that you could feel through the car and steering wheel, nothing too extreme just a feint tremor ... now those are gone.  

Mine was exactly the same at 97k miles. It’s easier to work on the water pump with the mount out too. 

[S8ked]

Hoped to add 20 horsepower by adding stripes!

 Apparently they are defective stripes as I took her our for a drive in the rain and found no increase in HP!  But I'm happy with the look of the stripes.

[Cheddar Bob]

5 minutes ago, S8ked said:

Hoped to add 20 horsepower by adding stripes!

 Apparently they are defective stripes as I took her our for a drive in the rain and found no increase in HP!  But I'm happy with the look of the stripes.

ut oh the anti sticker brigade will be out in force soon.... i like them. 

[pacificjuha]

Removed the front brake calipers in effort to paint them (red, of course ) and to apply new stickers. In same time, I'll refurbish the calipers with new dustbooths, pads and also install new brake discs.

I was VERY concerned of how the caliper bolts would come loose (or not) after reading plenty of horror stories of that here. On my car those came out very nicely, no fight at all, just a normal braker bar and even pressure. Also the bolts and threads do look to be in a very nice condition.

What was the recommended trick to put on caliper bolt treads at the time of re-assembly to make sure those bolts do not get seized there in the future either - was it copper paste or something else?

 

[½cwt]

40 minutes ago, pacificjuha said:

Removed the front brake calipers in effort to paint them (red, of course ) and to apply new stickers. In same time, I'll refurbish the calipers with new dustbooths, pads and also install new brake discs.

I was VERY concerned of how the caliper bolts would come loose (or not) after reading plenty of horror stories of that here. On my car those came out very nicely, no fight at all, just a normal braker bar and even pressure. Also the bolts and threads do look to be in a very nice condition.

What was the recommended trick to put on caliper bolt treads at the time of re-assembly to make sure those bolts do not get seized there in the future either - was it copper paste or something else?

 

 

I used Wurth AL1100 because I happened to have some (it is scarily expensive) but coppaslip or similar should be fine and make sure the threads are well cleaned if possible run a tap down them, although Porsche actually recommend replacement of the caliper bolts every time in the workshop manual... but at 85Nm they are not stretch bolts, just that they are subject to a lot of single direction shear force in their function.  I haven't changed mine and I'm not aware of many others that do.

[Danncus]

5 hours ago, ½cwt said:

I used Wurth AL1100 because I happened to have some (it is scarily expensive) but coppaslip or similar should be fine and make sure the threads are well cleaned if possible run a tap down them, although Porsche actually recommend replacement of the caliper bolts every time in the workshop manual... but at 85Nm they are not stretch bolts, just that they are subject to a lot of single direction shear force in their function.  I haven't changed mine and I'm not aware of many others that do.

I love the Facebook comments about them being stretch bolts! 😂

[pacificjuha]

7 hours ago, ½cwt said:

I used Wurth AL1100 because I happened to have some (it is scarily expensive) but coppaslip or similar should be fine and make sure the threads are well cleaned if possible run a tap down them, although Porsche actually recommend replacement of the caliper bolts every time in the workshop manual... but at 85Nm they are not stretch bolts, just that they are subject to a lot of single direction shear force in their function.  I haven't changed mine and I'm not aware of many others that do.

Thanks for the info. I have copper paste already. How about the blue threadlocker? This (or similar) seems to be installed at the original bolts as shown on the picture. Some comments say that the blu threadlocker has anti-corrosive qualities in it... true or not, I have no idea yet.

[Halfordwill]

Thread locker would protect the threads and stop them coming undone. 
that’s what comes on new bolts and that’s what I always use.