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Rebuilding my Wreck


ATM

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On 2/11/2019 at 8:56 AM, ATM said:

This seems to be the best diagram, thanks Caped Crusader for the part number pointer.  So yes it appears that the housing neck holds a roller bearing - part number 23.  This makes sense now and is exactly what I was expecting.  There appears to be a seal at the inside end of this housing neck - part number 22.  They do call the snap ring a circlip - part number 16.

 

https://www.scuderiacarparts.com/part-finder/porsche/boxster/oe/225/2404/45927?h=292592

 

HPUQ3TKBZX4TA9MJAQ7K.gif

I'm quoting my earlier post here for the diagram. I popped into the Porsche dealer to see what they can get me in the way of parts if as I believe the box is leaking where the half shaft went back in. 

 

22 is the seal and its 12 quid. Ordered one of those.

 

14 is the gasket for the little housing which bolts on and is only 2 quid. Ordered one of those too.

 

I've have not been under the car yet because the weather has been awful but I'm itching to get on with it now.

 

I want to top up the box with my cheapish but fully synthetic Comma 75w90 and then check it drives ok. Then investigate the source of my leak. Really really hope its obviously coming out of the half shaft entry point although a new half shaft is something like 700 quid. Not looking forward to removing the half shaft because that probably means removing the drive shaft and I'd imagine all the suspension has to come off again.

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Jacked the car up and had a look around. The passenger side of the gearbox has gearbox oil everywhere. I'm hoping that means its leaking out of the half shaft seal and then making it's way out and into the half shaft and then getting thrown all over the place as it spins.

 

I put almost a full litre of fresh oil in through the filler plug. I noticed some coming out so I stopped. I'm not sure if this was coming out because it was full or I just spilled a bit. Took the car for a little drive and it was shifting ok at first but then I got a few jerky shifts again so I parked it up again.

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Thought I'd have another look at the car seeing as the weather looked brighter. Jacked the car up again to put some more oil in. Only this time when I took the fill plug out some oil leaked out. It was a slow trickle. I lowered it a bit so I could try to get the level right. I'd say about 100 ml came back out. Tried drivin the car again but it's still not shifting right and threw a fault code. So something is wrong with it. Either it's too full now or maybe the oil isn't correct. 

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Just tried to set the fluid level again. This time I had the wheels off the ground and the engine running and in gear so they could turn. I believe this is what pumps the fluid round the cooler and this is what you need to do to set the level correctly. I dont think it has helped. I got another quarter of a litre in but the car is worse now and will not drive. It wont go into first at all and will only allow 2nd. I'm confused now what's wrong. Either the gearbox is just toast or maybe the fluid I put in is wrong and that's causing the problems. I thought 75w90 is just 75w90 but maybe that's not the case. The only thing it could be is the clutch side fluid I guess. But if the leak is from the driveshaft then that should be from the diff which would be gear side fluid.

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Have you got the car level??

I’d drain it properly, fix the seal and then refill it with the whole car on stands. There’s a level it needs to go to whilst warm, this is to get it spot on and needs the correct kit to read the internal temperature of the gear box and is a PITA to get spot on, I paid Porsche to do it for me on my old 987.

Ball Park is good enough to drive it to the garage for a final level check but you are wasting time/money/oil throwing it in whilst it’s still leaking. 

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1 hour ago, Duffy3074 said:

Have you got the car level??

I’d drain it properly, fix the seal and then refill it with the whole car on stands. There’s a level it needs to go to whilst warm, this is to get it spot on and needs the correct kit to read the internal temperature of the gear box and is a PITA to get spot on, I paid Porsche to do it for me on my old 987.

Ball Park is good enough to drive it to the garage for a final level check but you are wasting time/money/oil throwing it in whilst it’s still leaking. 

I dont want to spend a load of time fixing a leak if the gearbox doesn't even work. I'd like to get it shifting with the leak first. It worked fine when I collected it a couple of weeks ago and has got gradually worse since then. Now it doesn't even work at all.

 

I'd like to think that getting the oil level exactly right can't be the be all and end all. Surely the gearbox is made in such a way that it doesn't need to be absolutely perfect.

 

I've done some Googling and it seems that not all 75w90 is the same. The stuff I've been using is quite thick where as some is quite thin - that doesn't make sense I know. I've ordered some Millers 75w90 because I'm using their engine oil so it kinda felt right. Hopefully it will be thinner.

 

So the hope now is that ditching the fluid that's in there and replacing with something thinner will magically fix it. If it doesn't then I'm running out of options.

 

Here's my parts from Porsche. 22 and 14 from the diagram above.

 

20200222-144314.jpg

20200222-144336.jpg

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ATM ,

 

as you’ve mentioned you well ahead on the price of the car and well in profit so why risk a 15k gearbox bill on these PDKs, book it into a specialist or Porsche network and get the fluids changed out for proper spec and a once over on the car.will stand to you when/if you decide to sell.

 

zaga

 

 

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What fault codes is the gearbox throwing out?

Get it level and do it once,  as properly as you can.

If you’ve got the car at any sort of angle then you are overfilling the box with the drip outmethod 

 

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1 hour ago, Duffy3074 said:

What fault codes is the gearbox throwing out?

Get it level and do it once,  as properly as you can.

If you’ve got the car at any sort of angle then you are overfilling the box with the drip outmethod 

 

I've got no way of knowing about fault codes.

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1 hour ago, zagamuffin said:

ATM ,

 

as you’ve mentioned you well ahead on the price of the car and well in profit so why risk a 15k gearbox bill on these PDKs, book it into a specialist or Porsche network and get the fluids changed out for proper spec and a once over on the car.will stand to you when/if you decide to sell.

 

zaga

 

 

Maybe I'm being a bit stubborn but I'd like to try to get it fixed by myself. It's just a car and can't be that complicated. I'd feel a lot better knowing I got it done myself. 

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The clutch side of the pdk needs the piwis diags to change it.  There’s a gearbox temperature window and some valves that need to opened at a certain point in the process.  
 

may well be the same for the other “half” of the box.  At least worth a call to a good Indy to ask them what’s involved. If it needs the computer hooked up then you are chasing your tail.  

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1 hour ago, Paul P said:

The clutch side of the pdk needs the piwis diags to change it.  There’s a gearbox temperature window and some valves that need to opened at a certain point in the process.  
 

may well be the same for the other “half” of the box.  At least worth a call to a good Indy to ask them what’s involved. If it needs the computer hooked up then you are chasing your tail.  

Sounds like we need a pioneer to come along and forge new ground. To help prove to the keen DIY owners out there that it doesn't have to be that complicated. Someone with basic tools, a tiny bit of knowledge and a dangerous amount of confidence. 

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2 minutes ago, ATM said:

Sounds like we need a pioneer to come along and forge new ground. To help prove to the keen DIY owners out there that it doesn't have to be that complicated. Someone with basic tools, a tiny bit of knowledge and a dangerous amount of confidence. 

You’re hired🤣

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23 minutes ago, ATM said:

Sounds like we need a pioneer to come along and forge new ground. To help prove to the keen DIY owners out there that it doesn't have to be that complicated. Someone with basic tools, a tiny bit of knowledge and a dangerous amount of confidence. 

Mate.  I am in awe of your commitment to this and truly truly impressed with what you have done to date. And I really hope it works.

But if there’s an electronic valve in there that separates the filler hole from the place that the oil needs to go then no amount of filling and hoping will open it

just suggesting a second opinion on what you are facing but hey, I would have quit before now so I guess keep rolling and see where it takes you  
 

Wish you the best of luck with it   

 

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I’ve done a small amount of work on 1 or 2 Boxsters and genuinely respect your have a go attitude, however I’d strongly recommend getting it at least level, the codes read and gearbox filled properly before you go any further 

 

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The repair manual is clear that you need to inform the transmission control unit that you are changing the oil and let it do it's thing.  Good advice above, get it to a specialist with the appropriate software and they will have this sorted in no time, the transmission survived the accident and imo the issues you are facing now are due to the leak and the refill you've carried out.  Stop now before it's too late.

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