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Rebuilding my Wreck


ATM

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If you’ve any doubts just spread your legs wide and stand with the weight on the outer edge of the floor at the joint with the inner wings.

:)

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just swapped the battery on the 987 - was OK form the side once I had taken a couple of "man the f up" pills, although for a while I had mental images of an engine hoist being used! 

Wonder that the official workshop process is for this - since it is a breath holding moment when you haul that weight out......

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Putting it back in feels scary. You can't just throw it in. You have to place it. More he man pills needed. I stood on the boot floor. Car dropped about an inch and for a moment I thought sheet I've bent the floor. Then my brain engaged and we were fine.

 

My battery is still charging so I used another battery as a temporary. That allowed me to fire up the engine and see if the car had forgotten any faults. No such luck. I did manage to check the PSE. One of the valves is operating but the other is stuck. Both hoses feel firmly attached.

 

Some of the research I've done leads me to believe that my faults may be related to the vacuum pipes and the control valves that are all over the car. I tried opening the petrol filler cap and got no hiss. I'm sure it always used to hiss. 

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These things hate sitting

Get the gearbox fixed first, a couple of decent runs under the belt and see what does and doesn’t work after that 

Just guessing and over thinking things isn’t necessarily the best 

:)

 

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Its not just the gearbox.  Just tried to drive it again because I felt inspired.  I am getting various yellow warnings and even occasionally a red engine reduced power message.  So even if the gearbox works the engine isn't.  That's why I want to see what codes its throwing.

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Your acting as if the engine and gearbox work separately from each other.

They don’t 

If there’s a problem with the gearbox, the engine will react to that. 
You’re right about needing to be able to read codes. 
Farting against thunder otherwise 

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Atm ,

 

the actuator rod siezes up easily, just disconnect it and use a vice grip play 8 o presoak valve rod and work open and closed.mine was siezes and found on a full service,Porsche just replaced under warrenty(What a waste) 

 

car is twice as loud as it was and I thought it was asbo beforehand lol

 

 

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31 minutes ago, zagamuffin said:

Atm ,

 

the actuator rod siezes up easily, just disconnect it and use a vice grip play 8 o presoak valve rod and work open and closed.mine was siezes and found on a full service,Porsche just replaced under warrenty(What a waste) 

 

car is twice as loud as it was and I thought it was asbo beforehand lol

 

 

How to you disconnect it Zaga?  I had one changed under warranty and it did seem like overkill.

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Hey Daz, 

 

I think there’s a ball socket on the actuator similar to some turbo actuator rods,it’s got a ring sleeve which should be able to slide back to release the arm.Ultimitly it’s spring loaded but shouldn’t need disconnecting if you’ve a strong arm and a good clamp tool.secret is soaking with a good lube beforehand for an hr or two.carbon on the seats will cause occasional jamming up of the butterfly’s I’d imagine.ill be checking mine regular every 6 months now..

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So this feels like progress as I have much less faults although the car still wont find gears. I did some research and I think I have everything back to front. The hydraulics for the PDK are in the other side of the box which takes a different fluid.

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I'm hoping there are fewer faults because the battery is now fully charged up and the cables are properly clamped down.

So today I bought some dual clutch type fluid. It's not the correct Porsche fluid but it says dual clutch on the bottle and the word Porsche too.

I'm going to use this and try topping up the clutch fluid side which I've thus far left alone.

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Just went through this thread from start to finish, immense bravery doing this project but you seem to be battling well with it. If you're going to be quid's in from it, it seems to have been absolute sense to get your car back and make some pennies whilst you're at it. Have you managed to decipher what those codes mean in english? 

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Turns out it just needed some fluid. Swallowed the whole litre. I took it for a drive and it all works. Ok the gear change is a little jerky but it works. Plugged in the fault code reader and nothing. All clear. I managed about 45 minutes and was just getting near to home when I had a stutter changing gear and the yellow message so I nursed it back. Parked fine so still got 1st and reverse.

 

Now I guess I need to figure out what to do about the leak. Clearly its clutch side fluid and I'm wandering if perhaps its coming out from the cooler or the pipes going to it.

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