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What have YOU done to your 987 today


Tony Daniel

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Re gassed the low side of the AC after yesterdays repair   to the punctured pipe concealed by the OSF wheel jacking point .

Its all fully functional now .No other leaks thus far .

Yes I gave the AC condensers at the front a good rake out of debris a few days ago and waxoiled the lower 1/3 rd and out side 3 cm of those rads .

Fitted a new air filter, bit of a phaff to line it up .Resorted to a tiny smear of fairy liquid round the rim of the housing and it just slid on .No recent record s in the SH it had been done .Old one was filthy pretty much like the black cabin air filter I replaced yesterday as well .

Sort of cleaned up the engine compartment, hoovered out a few leave on the air box side , topped up the PS fluid .

Then checked the coolant ( from the trunk ) topped off .

First time I have opened up the engine compartment, did a drain check = all ok as well .It’s pretty easy , watched a couple of utube vids .

They seem well engineered abs built theses boxsters .

The poly belt arrives next week .- next job accessing the fwd area.

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6 hours ago, Deano37 said:

Thought i had a leaking RMS seal but turns out its oil leaking from the IMS flange seal.

Been trying all morning to get the nut off, but it will nut budge with the limited purchase on the shaft. Tried to make the slot in the shaft deeper but no different. :( 

How did you come to this conclusion? Reason I ask is like most S owners I have a bit of oil around that area. Did you have the 'box out?

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On 4/15/2022 at 6:39 PM, Boxer boy said:

Attempted to re gas the AC .It’s wasn’t working very well .I’ve done this with loadsa cars to great effect .However noticed the gas escaping driver side front wheel arch very close to the Jack point .

Further investigation by removing the wheel , wheel arch liner and partially loosening the central underbody cover reviled .= Some previous clown ( SH suggest new brakes  at the front last Autumn) had damaged the larger AC low pressure rtn pipe .

There are two AC pipes that run inside the liner and bend very close ie within a cm of the Jack point .Theses are concealed under the central tray ,It appears no top hat was used on the lift / Jack and the pipe was crushed = small hole .

Interesting - I had a pressure test done on mine last year with a view to regassing and air sounded like it was p*ssing out from that area.  How easy was it to get visual access to check it?  I haven't ventured as far as trying to remove the underbody covers.

Edited by Hainesy
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1 hour ago, Hainesy said:

Interesting - I had a pressure test done on mine last year with a view to regassing and air sounded like it was p*ssing out from that area.  How easy was it to get visual access to check it?  I haven't ventured as far as trying to remove the underbody covers.

You need a axle stand , a 10mm socket and a small torx set .

Jact it up use a larger socket as a top hat for the tiny Jack point .

Remove the wheel (loosen the wheel lugs before lifting + and chock a back wheel ) .Place the stand under the apex of the A arm .Lower the car onto the stand .

The wheel arch liner is in 2/3 rds rear 1/3 rd front .Using the torx and 10 mm socket remove the  rear only securing screws / bolts (3) .Wrestle it out .

lie down at the side and with the 10mm socket remove about 3to 4 of the 10 mm bolts holding the under tray area near the Jack point .Plastic so come off easy .Thank you Porsche.

You will then be able to lower that front corner of the under tray to get sufficient access .

Maybe like me spot previous damage to the tray around the Jack point .

The gas , infact it’s  mixture of gas / oil leaves a oily residue.You will see it inside the tray .Wipe it all away use paint thinners or petrol on rags .

Then ( Halfords EZi AC top up gas ) using the low port just put in a 5 PSI squirt .The puncture will hiss and usually identify it’s self .Bit like a cycle puncture.

Alaradite is your friend .But re sealing it is a cat skinning exercise.

I understand the part , a long pipe is circa £ 300-400  .To replace involving total removal of the tray and more stuff inside the arch as it’s one unit .

Also grief undoing the connections = steel to alloy electrolytic corrosion issues undoing it .Your call on that one .

For the future get one of theses .This applies to all 987 s .

The earlier cars did not have the middle tray that conceals the AC pipes .

This AC line busting phenomenon is a 987.2  issue .

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273104055457

Hope this helps a few on here ? 

 

Edited by Boxer boy
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29 minutes ago, Boxer boy said:

The earlier cars did not have the middle tray that conceals the AC pipes .

This AC line busting phenomenon is a 987.2  issue .

Thanks, those instructions are super comprehensive.  Am definitely tempted to take a look myself rather than have my indy doing it - the AC isn't exactly mandatory on a convertible after all, however would be nice to have working.  Are you saying this issue is limited to 987.2 cars though (I've got a 987.1)?

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17 hours ago, JonSta said:

How did you come to this conclusion? Reason I ask is like most S owners I have a bit of oil around that area. Did you have the 'box out?

Yes. Previously replaced clutch, flywheel and RMS. After a few months noticed a small patch of oil on drive and gradually getting worse, thought RMS was still leaking. 
Removed gearbox and RMS is bone dry but oil collected around bottom of IMS.

Not something I wanted to do, but it was too much oil to leave it alone.

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On 2/23/2022 at 11:31 PM, ½cwt said:

 A bit of shameless promotion here.  On 24 April there is a Boxster 25th Anniversary BoXa.net meet at the British Motor Museum Gaydon, please link to the topic below for more information and to note your interest:

 

For those that have said 'yes' or may have missed it altogether, here are the details for next Sunday's BoXa.net event at Gaydon:

 

 

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7 hours ago, Hainesy said:

Thanks, those instructions are super comprehensive.  Am definitely tempted to take a look myself rather than have my indy doing it - the AC isn't exactly mandatory on a convertible after all, however would be nice to have working.  Are you saying this issue is limited to 987.2 cars though (I've got a 987.1)?

Probably 987.1 s as well if fitted with full under trays?
Seems an inevitability if a std 10-12 cm Jack pads used .ie Quick fit etc .

 

Edited by Boxer boy
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Had to remove the snapped cord/string roof tensioners as they are now getting trapped in the roof when it closes. I’ll have to figure out whether to replace them or not. A tiny torx screw and they’re out for now.

Also discovered how brilliant it is driving top down in a heavy rain shower, until the wind direction changes and you have to slow for traffic. 

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Just completed my first DIY oil change.😎

Out of interest I cut off the ends off the oil filter, stretched it out and checked all the little folds and it was great to see nothing. No plastic, nor metal, just oily folded paper. In an extended bout of paranoia I then filtered all the old oil through a wire mesh in a filter funnel, with the same negative result.

I had problems getting the sump plug out, as it was a rounded torx fitting. That’s a bit annoying as I would have expected the indie who did the change last time to replace a worn plug. Luckily I had a new one to hand so that’s one less problem for the future. The oil filter housing has deep gouges around it, so some ham fisted eejit has been at it in the past. I’ll get a new one for next time.

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1 hour ago, Del_tl1000r said:

Yeah looks fine. No problems. Marked up as Saint-Gobain Sekurit. Only problem is my aerial but knew I was going to have to replace that.

That’s Porsche original glass.  

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