What have YOU done to your 986 today ?

[½cwt]

Swapped out the driver's seat for one from salvage (£237 delivered from Douglas Valley) as the side bolster had broken recently and the leather was shot (advised by experienced trimmer) and had had a poor fill/reConnollising process, so beware - may look good when done by what about a few years later?  The salvage seat has had a thorough clean with Auto Glym Interior Cleaner and then a couple of treatments with Auto Glym Leather Care.  This meant I needed to clean the existing passenger seat too so it didn't look grubby in comparison.  Had to swap over the plastic side trim piece the covers the outside hinge and the back stops/load spreading plates in the runners and when I turned both over found a difference in seat construction between my 2000 W plate vs the X plate donor car. 

Also against what I've 'got away with' before on my passenger seat, you do need an E12 socket (female Torx) for the seat bolts if they happen to be tight (£3.59 from Halfords after 10% AA discount).  Also made £2.09 from change that fell out of the old seat.

Then of course I had to take it for a test drive.  Much more comfortable that the old seat!

 

Old leather:

 

Replacement:

 

Undersides late 2000/2001 seat vs a Feb 2000 seat:

 

 

[the baron]

On 6/12/2021 at 7:18 PM, ½cwt said:

Swapped out the driver's seat for one from salvage (£237 delivered from Douglas Valley) as the side bolster had broken recently and the leather was shot (advised by experienced trimmer) and had had a poor fill/reConnollising process, so beware - may look good when done by what about a few years later?  The salvage seat has had a thorough clean with Auto Glym Interior Cleaner and then a couple of treatments with Auto Glym Leather Care.  This meant I needed to clean the existing passenger seat too so it didn't look grubby in comparison.  Had to swap over the plastic side trim piece the covers the outside hinge and the back stops/load spreading plates in the runners and when I turned both over found a difference in seat construction between my 2000 W plate vs the X plate donor car. 

Also against what I've 'got away with' before on my passenger seat, you do need an E12 socket (female Torx) for the seat bolts if they happen to be tight (£3.59 from Halfords after 10% AA discount).  Also made £2.09 from change that fell out of the old seat.

Then of course I had to take it for a test drive.  Much more comfortable that the old seat!

 

Old leather:

 

Replacement:

 

Undersides late 2000/2001 seat vs a Feb 2000 seat:

 

 

I had worse wear to the drivers bolster in fact it had holes in it but bought a repair kit and dye and it looks an ok job, just a thought for the future, as your new seat is a vast improvement but not perfect so might be worth  considering for future renovations

[½cwt]

29 minutes ago, the baron said:

I had worse wear to the drivers bolster in fact it had holes in it but bought a repair kit and dye and it looks an ok job, just a thought for the future, as your new seat is a vast improvement but not perfect so might be worth  considering for future renovations

What I was noting here is the possible longevity of the repairs given how my original seat had turned out.  Perhaps the difference between pro and amateur so flagging it in case people are considering or even have done it (as you have) that it might not last as well as you hope, or whoever did mine didn't prep it properly.

I took advice form @gary hubbard (an experienced trimmer and upholsterer) on the original leather before looking for the replacement seat but the broken side bolster on the back rest (I'm too heavy and hit it at the wrong angle, seat vs 100+kg, getting in in a tight parking space...) made the decision easier.  He does re-Connollising so I will run it up to him some time to see what he thinks but he did say from pictures that my replacement is a good one for a salvage seat given the price.  Also now I have an untreated seat some whole section leather panels might be an option if budget ever allows.

[gIzzE]

Furniture Clinic kit for £60 will get them looking like brand new. 

This was absolute shagged, 10 years old, 110k miles, leather filthy, dry, shiny and cracked, took around 4 hours, but came up like new, and an hour was masking up the piping! 

 

http://www.zen104526.zen.co.uk/tdv8/tdv8interior.jpg

 

http://www.zen104526.zen.co.uk/tdv8/tdv8interior2.jpg

 

Now you have a good seat, worth considering a respray? 

Edited June 14, 2021 by gIzzE

[½cwt]

3 hours ago, gIzzE said:

Furniture Clinic kit for £60 will get them looking like brand new. 

This was absolute shagged, 10 years old, 110k miles, leather filthy, dry, shiny and cracked, took around 4 hours, but came up like new, and an hour was masking up the piping! 

 

http://www.zen104526.zen.co.uk/tdv8/tdv8interior.jpg

 

http://www.zen104526.zen.co.uk/tdv8/tdv8interior2.jpg

 

Now you have a good seat, worth considering a respray? 

This is my point, the old seat has had a fill and respray which has now shown to look pretty poor a few years down the line.  I've no idea to what quality level it was done but it doesn't seem to have stood the test of time.  I bought the car in Sept 2018 and it was done before that.

Is it possible these repair/painting kits may not be as long lasting even if they look fantastic immediately after applying them?

[Paul chocks]

Changed a leaking air-con condenser and desiccator. Bought both from CoolpartUk on eBay for around £60 and genuine o-rings for £20 from 9Apart.

Regassed and ice-cold again.

Probably should have changed the other condenser while I was at it...

[RalphyBMW]

Picked up a missing spacer that goes behind the gearbox exhaust bracket and refitted a standard 3.2 exhaust & banana pipes.

I now need to fix some blowing from around the clamps, so wish me luck!

Edited June 18, 2021 by RalphyBMW

[Pacoryan]

Realised I seem to have lost the locking wheel nut key. I need the wheel nut key because I’ve worn the tyres out.  Got a quote for fixing the paint which made me wince. Smelt a bit hot-oily after a thrash down the bypass.  Confirmed my only intact key remote isn’t talking to the car any more.

Feels like an expensive W/e so far.

[red rocket]

1 hour ago, Pacoryan said:

Realised I seem to have lost the locking wheel nut key

Have you checked the glove box? That's the best place to keep it if you've followed advice here.

[Pacoryan]

Just now, red rocket said:

Have you checked the glove box? That's the best place to keep it if you've followed advice here.

If only I had one (early 986).  It used to live in the cubby behind the handbrake, and reminded every time I braked or accelerated 😂

[½cwt]

4 hours ago, red rocket said:

Have you checked the glove box? That's the best place to keep it if you've followed advice here.

Early 986 - Driver's door bin along with the rod to guide the wheel on/off.  At least with an early car you'd need the cable to the frunk release to break not just the electrics to fail or battery go flat if you did leave it in the tool kit.

[pacificjuha]

Together with my 15 year son, we changed the backbox on the Boxster. Original had started leaking from couple of corner seams after approx 180.000miles. The replacement in the picture is in very nice condition, it has been driven approximaltely 25.000miles.

It was suprisingly simple and easy to take the rear end apart on the Boxster

[Kay Pee]

Replaced both o2 sensors on a mission to fix a long standing bank 1 misfire issue.

Also replaced the first of the 2 front coffin arms as the bottom ball joint was knackered. OMG they are hard buggers to get out! I actually managed to pop out both the ball joint and the tapered steel insert (part of the hub) when 'tapping' it out.

Glad it's done now, steering wander gone 🙂

[RalphyBMW]

16 hours ago, pacificjuha said:

Together with my 15 year son, we changed the backbox on the Boxster. Original had started leaking from couple of corner seams after approx 180.000miles. The replacement in the picture is in very nice condition, it has been driven approximaltely 25.000miles.

It was suprisingly simple and easy to take the rear end apart on the Boxster

I did this on Friday, albeit replacing aftermarket boxes rather than a broken system.

Any leaks from your joints; I needed to use some Fire Gum but 🤞🏻sorted now.

[pacificjuha]

5 hours ago, RalphyBMW said:

I did this on Friday, albeit replacing aftermarket boxes rather than a broken system.

Any leaks from your joints; I needed to use some Fire Gum but 🤞🏻sorted now.

No leaks. I did use a bit of exhaust pipe paste to seal the downpipes to U-bends better.

[RalphyBMW]

Fitted Brembo front discs with Ferodo DS2500 pads.

Wasn’t impressed with the fitment TBH, needed to remove the locating pins from the old pads, and modify for the sensor. Not what I expected for £140 pads, guess I should have done more homework.

[edc]

4 minutes ago, RalphyBMW said:

Fitted Brembo front discs with Ferodo DS2500 pads.

Wasn’t impressed with the fitment TBH, needed to remove the locating pins from the old pads, and modify for the sensor. Not what I expected for £140 pads, guess I should have done more homework.

For most uprated higher temp pads you won't be able to use the wear sensor. Just connect the wires together. If you were to use the uprated pads to their proper potential with a wear sensor you would melt the sensor and trigger the pad wear light anyway. I have melted the sensor on OE pads.

[RalphyBMW]

30 minutes ago, edc said:

For most uprated higher temp pads you won't be able to use the wear sensor. Just connect the wires together. If you were to use the uprated pads to their proper potential with a wear sensor you would melt the sensor and trigger the pad wear light anyway. I have melted the sensor on OE pads.

That’s impressive!

I got the brakes pretty damn hot on track in my much heavier M3, and they were fine; those were just a single clip on sensor on the inner pad on diagonally opposite corners though.

Do any later porkers have a compatible clip on type sensor?

[pacificjuha]

9 hours ago, edc said:

For most uprated higher temp pads you won't be able to use the wear sensor. Just connect the wires together. If you were to use the uprated pads to their proper potential with a wear sensor you would melt the sensor and trigger the pad wear light anyway. I have melted the sensor on OE pads.

This was good to know. Last winter I did full brake job on my 2001 2.7 and took it first time to track this year spring. At the end of 3rd start the brake wear light came on... I was certain that the fault can not be real and brakes worked fantastic compared to the pre-brake job.

Took the car home after the day and opened the brakes next day - found out both front sensors melted... I was certain that I had installed those sensors somehow wrong, but could not validate it. New sensors in and all is well now Probably need to take sensors out from pads if the issue comes back again...

[the baron]

Put netting up in my garage to stop those pesky swallows from sh1tting all over my car, it’s a WAR.

My car cover was Blue its looking more white now.

[Billzeebub]

nothing technical..vaccumed the interior with the Dyson handheld and then used a small pain-brush (top tip) to clear all vents and difficult to reach places and vaccumed again. Then treated all the leather with Autoglym feed and Autoglym Vinyl/Trim restorer on all plastic areas. Looking factory fresh again. Now cup of tea before doing all the rubber seals and, if it ever stops raining, an exterior wash and wax

[½cwt]

Did a 200 mile round trip to the RWB Bruch at Sally Pussey's.  Thanks to @CAZ for organising.

In preparation gave some of the interior a good clean.  Shocked at the amount of dirt I took off the roll hoop trim. Also Gummi Pfleged the roof seals so a nice quite trip down the Fosse Way from Southam to Cirencester. 

Discovered I had a side light out.  Never had to buy a H6W bulb before.

[Bradders59]

Due to my car missing the drivers side rain deflector / hinge cover when I got it, I fitted one a bought from ebay a couple of weeks ago.

This was sadly too late to stop the drivers side of the carpet from getting a good soaking.

So,on Wednesday I bit the bullet and took the carpet out. As anyone who has done can testify, this involves a fair bit of dismantling of the interior.

Yesterday the carpet was finally dry, so I began putting it all back together. Gave everything a good clean before refitting and almost got it finished today.

Just the seats to go back in, but I want to clean and treat the leather tomorrow, before refitting them.

Then back on the road, hopefully with no more leaks. 

[RalphyBMW]

Bedded in the DS2500’s, initial bite seems much improved Vs the spurious pads that the car was wearing, so fingers crossed mission:accomplished.

[charlieboy2608]

On 11/7/2020 at 6:55 PM, edc said:

While the suspensions all apart and you're under you might as well whack on the GT3 brake ducts. 

Also worth checking the handbrake sleeve/tubing. It had fractured on one of my cars. 

One of my handbrake cable sleeve/tubing has fractured-can I ask if you sourced it from OPC?

Was it difficult to remove and what method did you use?

Thanks in advance.