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What have YOU done to your 986 today ?


Mike G

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On 7/29/2021 at 7:10 PM, Hewey said:

She rang RAC out in 40mins, plate off and boot opened in 10 mins. Good  service I feel. Asked  if  she was travelling down tonight. Replied it will  be dark before she's  home and She  doesn't  know  were the light  switch  is!! Only been  driving  it 3years. Or doesn't  want to come home?

Handsome RAC man was he?

I’ve seen films like that…

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54 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

Handsome RAC man was he?

I’ve seen films like that…

After being diverted off the A46 through Leicester at 10pm (she didn't even want to stop to put the top up) and arriving home at 11.30pm aft a 3.75 hour journey, normaly 2.75hrs. She wasn't smiling. She slept well though!  I did check to see f the A46 was closed.

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2 hours ago, Christopher2110 said:

Fitted my new to me rear anti roll bar from @Lennym1984as the old one was very much past it's best...

jVdlIDTl.jpg 

 

Yep, that won't polish out.  Should handle a bit differently now.

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1 hour ago, 999mch said:

Fitted a new stereo, so now have DAB, USB and Bluetooth. Went for a continental stereo, so although not original, it is in keeping with an orange display.

Just been looking at these, interested to find out how you find it.

Cars currently got aftermarket stereo that looks so out of place !

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15 hours ago, Malky007 said:

Just been looking at these, interested to find out how you find it.

Cars currently got aftermarket stereo that looks so out of place !

This is what it looks like, the stereo is a slightly different orange but looks ok. I am going to get a small black usb stick rather than the rather nasty blue one !

It wasn't quite plug and play as the stereo will only connect to speakers and not an amp, so I had to use a hi/low converter between the speaker output on the stereo and the amplifier input (yellow block). It also doesn't have an amp remote, so I just picked up the wire that switches on with the ignition.

 

 

IMG_6239.JPG.ac202d947af56edc68a79b0014ae1d7b.JPG

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19 hours ago, the baron said:

Interesting I know how to get into the front but not the back ….

I had alook today. Nearside, below the rear light there is two phillips headed screws that hold the heat sheild to the difusser. Undo these and it creates enough room to get your arm in and reach up towards the light cluster. The pull wire is up there need to put my arm up to my elbow to reach it. It's a tight fit.

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Fitted an updated coolant cap as I'm having to top up quite often.

This seems a silly question, but are they extremely difficult to tighten properly?  

I would be quite sure I wasn't getting tightened down onto the seal of the old cap.  & I needed grips to loosen it again after?

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I recently did a smoke vacuum leak test on my engine after getting P1128 & P1130 fault codes coming up repeatedly. It did show up a leak from the top of my resonance intake tube...after checking the price of a new one and discounting buying a used one I thought I’d have a go at sorting the one I’ve got.

I removed it from the car and stripped it down (easy enough, just 4 screws to get it apart)

4INwjbU.jpg

9FHth9J.jpg

20xJ6tU.jpg

Then I plucked the old seals out to measure them (they’re 8mm x 14mm x 4mm if anyone ever need to do the same) and ordered up some viton seals. The original seals are nitrile rubber rotary shaft oil seals but after 20 years they are rock solid and brittle. My top one crumbled when I removed it. The new seals have springs to help seal around the shaft

q4FlU96.jpg

pressed the new ones in...don’t really need a press but I’ve got one so I used it.

ykxD08C.jpg
 

then reassembled it and gave it another smoke test (DIY method this time using a vape pen) and no leaks😀

FCX03HN.jpg
 

vbdZzmj.jpg
 

I’m not 100% sure if it was this causing the fault codes but so far after a good blast they haven’t come back. 

a lot cheaper than buying a complete new part. Think it came to around £10 in total.

 

 

 

Edited by Kev Ush
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21 minutes ago, KevM79 said:

Fitted an updated coolant cap as I'm having to top up quite often.

This seems a silly question, but are they extremely difficult to tighten properly?  

I would be quite sure I wasn't getting tightened down onto the seal of the old cap.  & I needed grips to loosen it again after?

The cap shouldn't be that tight. Cross threaded? Clean threads and lightly lubricate.

Edited by Boxob
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27 minutes ago, Kev Ush said:

I recently did a smoke vacuum leak test on my engine after getting P1128 & P1130 fault codes coming up repeatedly. It did show up a leak from the top of my resonance intake tube...after checking the price of a new one and discounting buying a used one I thought I’d have a go at sorting the one I’ve got.

I removed it from the car and stripped it down (easy enough, just 4 screws to get it apart)

fPIaaDa.jpg
 

GaPjIyK.jpg
 

9qDHPsG.jpg
 

Then I plucked the old seals out to measure them (they’re 8mm x 14mm x 4mm if anyone ever need to do the same) and ordered up some viton seals. The original seals are nitrile rubber rotary shaft oil seals but after 20 years they are rock solid and brittle. My top one crumbled when I removed it. The new springs

q4FlU96.jpg

pressed the new ones in...don’t really need a press but I’ve got one so I used it.

ykxD08C.jpg
 

then reassembled it and gave it another smoke test (DIY method this time using a vape pen) and no leaks😀

FCX03HN.jpg
 

vbdZzmj.jpg
 

I’m not 100% sure if it was this causing the fault codes but so far after a good blast they haven’t come back. 

a lot cheaper than buying a complete new part. Think it came to around £10 in total.

 

 

 

Nice work   Love a good “fix”

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31 minutes ago, Kev Ush said:

I recently did a smoke vacuum leak test on my engine after getting P1128 & P1130 fault codes coming up repeatedly. It did show up a leak from the top of my resonance intake tube...after checking the price of a new one and discounting buying a used one I thought I’d have a go at sorting the one I’ve got.

I removed it from the car and stripped it down (easy enough, just 4 screws to get it apart)

fPIaaDa.jpg
 

GaPjIyK.jpg
 

9qDHPsG.jpg
 

Then I plucked the old seals out to measure them (they’re 8mm x 14mm x 4mm if anyone ever need to do the same) and ordered up some viton seals. The original seals are nitrile rubber rotary shaft oil seals but after 20 years they are rock solid and brittle. My top one crumbled when I removed it. The new springs

q4FlU96.jpg

pressed the new ones in...don’t really need a press but I’ve got one so I used it.

ykxD08C.jpg
 

then reassembled it and gave it another smoke test (DIY method this time using a vape pen) and no leaks😀

FCX03HN.jpg
 

vbdZzmj.jpg
 

I’m not 100% sure if it was this causing the fault codes but so far after a good blast they haven’t come back. 

a lot cheaper than buying a complete new part. Think it came to around £10 in total.

 

 

 

A vape pen - genius.

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16 hours ago, Halfordwill said:

I put some silicon grease on the threads of my new cap which does up snug and tight, but I need grips to get it off. 

Yes, mine is the same.

It hand tightens nicely & I can actually feel it making a seal, but I think I'll need the grips to loosen it off again 

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59 minutes ago, KevM79 said:

Yes, mine is the same.

It hand tightens nicely & I can actually feel it making a seal, but I think I'll need the grips to loosen it off again 

Mine too. Must be a 986 characteristic. They all do that sir.

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