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What have YOU done to your 986 today ?


Mike G

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2 hours ago, charlieboy2608 said:

One of my handbrake cable sleeve/tubing has fractured-can I ask if you sourced it from OPC?

Was it difficult to remove and what method did you use?

Thanks in advance.

 

 

It was a long time ago now but from recollection very straight forward with basic tools. No part ordered but found a piece of aluminium tubing which was exactly the same diameter and cut done to length.

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On 6/29/2021 at 10:24 AM, edc said:

It was a long time ago now but from recollection very straight forward with basic tools. No part ordered but found a piece of aluminium tubing which was exactly the same diameter and cut done to length.

Many thanks for the info 👍

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I have just had front coffin arms and tuning forks done, had the rears done 18months ago,  what a difference!  Steering feels better and it no longer sounds like a pool table in a brothel. 

Next on the list is the ignition switch which is playing up again even though it is under 3 years old...maybe I should buy the £60 one not the £20?

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Just bought new condensing rads and O rings, conveniently ignoring all the more pressing stuff that needs fixing.  Also bought an Evapourator because it seemed to make sense for so little money.  Then I read the article about how to replace it.  If the rads solve the problem, it may stay on a shelf for a while...

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On 10/12/2020 at 11:58 AM, ½cwt said:

4 new Koni Special Active dampers, ARB drop links and rear bump stops have been delivered today to go with the coffin arms and tuning forks that came last week.  Plus Gas soaking into all the nuts, bolts and joints as I write.  £920 into suspension refurb project....  Now (in no particular order) for the blood, toil, tears and sweat!  🤞 😨

I've probably missed this info but where did you source the above parts?-I did PM you so it might be Autodoc?

No mention of changing the springs?

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1 hour ago, charlieboy2608 said:

I've probably missed this info but where did you source the above parts?-I did PM you so it might be Autodoc?

No mention of changing the springs?

Yes, most parts from Autodoc.  I only did the front springs as I found a broken one, rear springs are still original, and that was about 4 months earlier.  I did the front top mounts and bump stops at that time too.

This is the front springs thread:

 

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A bit of good fortune today.  I had a seized on metal valve cap on my right rear valve stem so took it in to be dealt with this morning.  Whist inflating the tyre after replacing the valve stem a small puncture in the same tyre was found cause by a thin metal object.  All fixed but wallet £25 lighter.

Edited by ½cwt
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Finally managed to fix my cup holder, I have a facelift Boxster so my cup holder slides in and out. One of the holders was snapped in half so this past week my son has been using his 3D printer and the result is pretty good I think, and a lot cheaper than buying a new cup holder, if you can get one!

I might sell the part if anyone is interested?

NIOtWNr.jpg
 

YKyGBIe.jpg

Edited by Halfordwill
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Fitted two new H6W sidelight bulbs, one had failed but changed the pair to give me a spare too.

Also spent the day with @987RG changing plugs, coli packs and rear pads and discs and then we swapped rides.  My first 987 (and 2.7) drive and it does feel that bit more refined but less raw than the 986.  I believe he also enjoyed the extra torque of a 3.2.

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10 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Fitted two new H6W sidelight bulbs, one had failed but changed the pair to give me a spare too.

Also spent the day with @987RG changing plugs, coli packs and rear pads and discs and then we swapped rides.  My first 987 (and 2.7) drive and it does feel that bit more refined but less raw than the 986.  I believe he also enjoyed the extra torque of a 3.2.

Hi Chris, many thanks for spending the day with me working on the car. I really enjoyed that and learnt a great deal from you.  

All topped off with having a drive of your 986S.  👍
 

 

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11 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Fitted two new H6W sidelight bulbs, one had failed but changed the pair to give me a spare too.

Also spent the day with @987RG changing plugs, coli packs and rear pads and discs and then we swapped rides.  My first 987 (and 2.7) drive and it does feel that bit more refined but less raw than the 986.  I believe he also enjoyed the extra torque of a 3.2.

Hi Chris, I've written about our exploits in the 987 "what have you done to your car today" section but unfortunately cannot get your user name correctly referenced!!

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fitted short shift ebay special. Assembly was 1mm too long to get circlip on. Sanded down the nylon cup to allow fitment. I have the same on my 996 and the long throw on the original 986 shifter was really weird and notable. Now feels proper rifle bolt.

Li greased all the roof mech joints. Much quieter and now takes 15 seconds to open instead of 21 secs before.

 

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12 hours ago, 987RG said:

Hi Chris, I've written about our exploits in the 987 "what have you done to your car today" section but unfortunately cannot get your user name correctly referenced!!

Copy and paste.  If you are on an old fashioned Windows machine hold down Alt and key in 0189 on the number pad (with Num Lock on..) to get ½, on an Android keyboard press and hold 1 and you get fractions, on Apple platforms, not a clue.

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Fitted the Carnewal back-box as purchased from @MartynH a few weeks ago and took it for a quick run over the Marlborough downs. Raucous and smile-inducing :thumbsup_still:

Also fitted a new number plate light unit as I broke one with my sausage fingers when removing the rear PU :slap:

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Swapped out the a/c condensers, and cleared the rads of 20 years of leaves and feathers. Not totally convinced the “o”rings have seated properly, so it may all need to come apart again, but at least I know the drill now.  All made a lot easier by buying some plastic ramps to lift the nose enough to access everything. Had to drill out one of the hidden screws behind the indicators, just too rusty.  So I need to order a new captive nut and screw for that too.

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Changed the front chock supporting mount plate, bump stop and the bellows dust cover. All this without taking coffing arm loose.

Just loosened the antiroll bar from the side I was working on and compressed the strut spring with two spring compressors as it was worked on.

Cleaned all the parts, including the actual top plate bearing and re-greased it. Now the car feels more 'solid' and more sensitive on steering.

Edited by pacificjuha
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Removed c shaped rust rings loosely attached to exhaust.

Replaced with mikalor clamps.

Took apart instrument cluster to fix tacho needle that had brewers droop and was hanging down over the LED bit.

Fitted ebay headlight clusters. Excellent condition for 2nd hand units - very clear polycarbonate. Put LED H7 bulbs in the fogs to use as DRLs. The LEDs were no good for night driving as dipped or full beams.

The new light clusters really rejuvenate the look of the car.

Painted a few stone chips

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On 6/9/2021 at 6:56 PM, bally4563 said:

You lucky lucky bastard!!!

The last one was a complete nightmare.

I had to cut as much of the 17mm ball end off as I could.  I then had to weaken the centre enough to tear the stud away from the head by tightening the 18mm nut end onto washers.  It was then tighten, pack out, rinse, repeat...

It went through MOT this morning thankfully

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14 hours ago, KevM79 said:

The last one was a complete nightmare.

I had to cut as much of the 17mm ball end off as I could.  I then had to weaken the centre enough to tear the stud away from the head by tightening the 18mm nut end onto washers.  It was then tighten, pack out, rinse, repeat...

It went through MOT this morning thankfully

In the past I’ve done all the methods of getting them out, even drilling out. Now though, regardless, move everything out of the way ( sensors etc) couple of minutes heating the area with the hot axe, they fly out

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31 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

In the past I’ve done all the methods of getting them out, even drilling out. Now though, regardless, move everything out of the way ( sensors etc) couple of minutes heating the area with the hot axe, they fly out

+1 The best method 

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16 hours ago, KevM79 said:

The last one was a complete nightmare.

I had to cut as much of the 17mm ball end off as I could.  I then had to weaken the centre enough to tear the stud away from the head by tightening the 18mm nut end onto washers.  It was then tighten, pack out, rinse, repeat...

It went through MOT this morning thankfully

 

2 hours ago, bally4563 said:

In the past I’ve done all the methods of getting them out, even drilling out. Now though, regardless, move everything out of the way ( sensors etc) couple of minutes heating the area with the hot axe, they fly out

Heat is most definitely your friend for these drop link bolts.  Nothing else is as quick or less aggravation.

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