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My 2011 987 Black Edition


Jonttt

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Lol I never have to worry about SWMBO in the car, she never sat in the 981 in 2.5 years !

Little SWMBO won’t get into any of my sports cars due to the “fastness” which always make me chuckle. 

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So after giving the fresh exhaust paint a few days (and heat cycles) to cure it was time to polish them and the surrounding trim / diffusor....

For the exhaust I hand polished, sealed and waxed and for the trim I cleaned / panel wiped and sealed with GTechniq C4 Trim restorer....

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a reminder of the before.....

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and the completed after......

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there is no sign yet of the gloss matting down after the heat cycles and if anything it has cured / hardened glossier  :thumb:

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2 hours ago, Jonttt said:

So after giving the fresh exhaust paint a few days (and heat cycles) to cure it was time to polish them and the surrounding trim / diffusor....

For the exhaust I hand polished, sealed and waxed and for the trim I cleaned / panel wiped and sealed with GTechniq C4 Trim restorer....

ctnosTZ.jpg


a reminder of the before.....

Xi3BxZn.jpg


and the completed after......

6ZkWPii.jpg


there is no sign yet of the gloss matting down after the heat cycles and if anything it has cured / hardened glossier  :thumb:

Very nice 😎

Mine don’t look as bad as your starting position but they are a little pitted.

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So its been raining........ a lot  :roll: 

Now I've never had a convertable leak on me and I don't intend to start with this one, so as I can't do some of the jobs I would like due to both the weather and the fact my garage has a squater , I thought it prudent to check the drainage channels for the car to ensure none where blocked.....

I have evidence that these where checked on a service by Autofarm 2 years ago and it has just had an OPC interim service pre sale and with no evidence of dampness I was not expecting to have to do anything, it is just a way of getting to know a new car and how its put together / should work.....

So I got my trusty trumnbone cleaner out (well I bought a new one as I could not find my old one)....

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..... the 987 drainage channels are well documented on the internet so I will not cover their location / access etc.......but in principle there are 8 drainage holes to be checked broken down as follows:

x4 under the rear clamshell (x2 in drainage channels and x2 in "collection" trays)

x4 under the frunk trim around the battery tray

I started with the rear collection trays.....

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Two things surprised me with these. Firstly there was more "muck" in the area than I expected (the other was much worse than the one pictured above). Secondly there was a guard fitted to each drain hole. Now in all my internet research into these I have never seen these or even seen them mentioned. I was just expecting to find the hold. On removal its obvious they are made to fit but I have no idea if they are OEM (added to later 987 due to the then known issue of blockages ?) ...or an aftermarket part ?

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Anyway, I preceed to clean the area. nb it was threatening heavy thunderstorms so this was not meant to be a full detail but more a quick inspection that everything was fine and so I would know from experience where everything was and how to get at it.....

I simply wiped down with a damp cloth and then used the trumpet cleaner to "rod" the hole.....and then ran water down to check it was free flowing....

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Then onto the x2 drainage holes in the roof channels..... these where fine so I simply rodded and ran water down to ensure it flowed correctly...

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The front, although fairly restricted in access is easier as you don;t have the clamshell to deal with........there was surprisingly little debris in the front and all flowed freely......

As it had not started raining I then decided to check the door drainage, these are easy to access from under an open door and I just rodded them slightly, all was fine....

nb there are two sets of these slots front and back under the doors...

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I'm led to believe that these are never really a problem but rather failure of the inner door metal membrane sealent which manifests itself in damp /wet lower door carpet so I will make a point of checking these after every wash (ie when they are more prone to leak if there is a problem).........mine are fine, dry as a bone after a wash and some of the worst rain we have had for years......

I then quickly treated all rubber with my favourite conditioner......this stuff makes a massive difference both cosmetically and functionally on rubber watertight seals ....

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So another "job" crossed off the list and I know the car that little bit better  :thumb:

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2 hours ago, Jonttt said:

Secondly there was a guard fitted to each drain hole. Now in all my internet research into these I have never seen these or even seen them mentioned. I was just expecting to find the hold. On removal its obvious they are made to fit but I have no idea if they are OEM (added to later 987 due to the then known issue of blockages ?) ...or an aftermarket part ?

OEM - standard on 987.2 - they fit .1 and I *think* 986 as well - https://parr-uk.co.uk/product/porsche-boxster-drain-hole-filter - (cheaper than this from OPC with club discount) and a worthwhile (low cost) retrofit if you don't have them.

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One of the best "mods" that you can do for a manual 987 / 997 is to install the OEM short shift kit.......so it had to be done.....

nb this is a common part for "many" porsche models which are now all under the same part number.....eg was standard on some GT3 models.....

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nb the green bracket is a retaining bracket which clips to the black plastic below it to ensure that the gearstick is lined up in the neutral position as you fit it. Once fitted to the gear linkage rods in situ the green bracket is removed.

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There is an excellent instruction manual online on how to fit this so I won't repeat that .......

http://billswebspace.com/Porsche987ShortShiftDIY


The only thing I will say is that I managed to fit the kit without actually needing to disconnect any wiring to the central console, I just unclipped one wiring retaining clip and that just gave enough slack to get the central console out of the way to fit the kit.....

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in total the job took me about 90 minutes, taking my time to make sure I did not break anything. A couple of the retaining screws are harder to put back than get out but you just figure it out as you go along.....all in a simple job to do, just a little fiddly in places.........

the finished result........looks the same as before 😁 .........but my god does it transform the drive  :thumb: .....the standard gearshift is slick......the is slicker, proper race car feel about it  :drive:


and to put the icing on the cake, when reviewing the extensive paperwork that came with the car ...... it had a new clutch and flywheel fitted in November 2017 at a cost of £1,881....... 😉

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4 hours ago, Lonewolfgjp said:

Good work 👍

I always updated my shifter assembly’s in both my manual Boxsters, makes a huge difference! My last one was a GT3 style with the metal bearings and bushes, super slick 👌

Hi Lonewolfgjp

The metal bushed GT3 selector is on my winter project list along with new cables.

Mine is a 2005 S 987.1 do you have note of the part number for the GT3 selector and do you know if it's a straight fit into mine?

Many thanks in advance. 

Ady 

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47 minutes ago, AdyG said:

Hi Lonewolfgjp

The metal bushed GT3 selector is on my winter project list along with new cables.

Mine is a 2005 S 987.1 do you have note of the part number for the GT3 selector and do you know if it's a straight fit into mine?

Many thanks in advance. 

Ady 

Hi there 

Mine was a custom built by a member on here but it was built to a similar oem GT3 shifter assembly. Yes it should be monkey in monkey out, just mark your shifter cables before you remove them 👍

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12 minutes ago, Lonewolfgjp said:

Hi there 

Mine was a custom built by a member on here but it was built to a similar oem GT3 shifter assembly. Yes it should be monkey in monkey out, just mark your shifter cables before you remove them 👍

Perfect,  many thanks 👍😀

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Today was the perfect day for one of those jobs on a convertible I hate........Reproofing the roof  :roll: 

2 stage process -

- clean
- reproof (ideally x2 coats)

Tools for the job....

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Cleaning instructions...

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Reproofing instructions.....

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There are only 3 rules for this job...

1) Don't let anything dry on paintwork, glass or trim (its a bitch to get the reproofer off when dry)

2) Don't reproof in direct sunshine

3) Don't let anything dry on paintwork, glass or trim 😁


People try all sorts to keep the liquid off trim / paintwork but I've found the easiest method is to open the roof very slightly (let the clamshell raise and the roof a cm) so that you can access all of the roof, even the parts that normally touch the seals and utilise the normal water run offs.......

Cleaning....

I start off with a sponge to work the most abused parts ie leading front edge....and then soak the entire hood using the brush....

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I let this "sit" for 30min.......during which time I thought I might as well do some cleaning in those harder to reach places    :thumb: ....

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.......30 min later, soak the roof with hot clean water......and get to work with the cleaning brush to work the cleaning solution....

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then give it a thorough rinse with the hose (nb my hose is connnected to a water purifier, especially important for a black car)........you can see how the water soaks into the fabric.......

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Then let it dry for a few hours....

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Now at this point the sun decided to come out  :roll:....so I thought I would have to leave the reproofing until tomorrow morning (the car is parked in shade from the house am).......

but an hour later the sun hide behind a blanket of cloud offering the perfect conditions for reproofing ie warm, no direct sun ......so I set to work.....

This is the bit you really need to control the run off (especially for the second coat when there is more runoff, so I pack strategically and have a massive bucket of clean water at hand (to soak away any overrun onto paintwork / glass)....

Reproofer, coat 1 applied......

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nb in practice most of the excess proofer finds its way to the normal rear drainage channels  :thumb: 

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so you simply swill away with the bucket of clean water you have left.

I let that dry for 3 hours and went for the second coat......you can really see the difference after the first coat and this time you really have to work the proofer in with the brush and you get a lot more run off.....

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after the second coat is applied, everything is wiped down and the roof closed to ensure it is taught for final drying....

These are pics of it wet.......

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So job done.....the product states reapply every 6 months but in my experience it lasts a few years if you look after the roof ie I never apply washing fluid to the roof, I simply rinse it with clean water from the hose and use a large microfibre cloth to gently wipe down the roof, that is enough to keep it looking fresh and retain the proofing for a lot longer  :thumb: 

I'll test it out tomorrow with the hose to see the end result, it should be entertaining as the water should literally jump off the roof   😁

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Best thing to do at the start of the process is to give the hood a light hoover before you start cleaning, gets all the grit and dust out of the fabric and stops you sealing in the deeper dirt. Really makes a difference

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To update the roof reproofing.......there was a massive thunderstorm last night but fortunately it was about 4 hours after I had finished proofing the roof so it had had chance to dry  :roll: 

So the dry roof this morning....

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and after I threw a cup of water over it, this was all that was left "balanced" on the top, the rest had ran off....

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Great job, I hate cleaning and sealing the roof. I did mine last year with Angel wax products but I managed to get over spray every where which was difficult to remove. It is on my todo list to do this time before I da the paint work 👍 I did put some c4 on the roof rails though and that worked very well 😎

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It was nice to have a free weekend to get to know the car some more......and decent weather for some detailing ie warm but no direct sunshine....

The car had been detailed pretty well by the dealer I got it from, yes it could do with a proper DA polish to get rid of swirls but if I'm going to do that I need a few days on the car......so I decided to leave that for next year and just give the car a "top up" using a black glaze wihch would help fill some of the swirls and see me through the summer....... so it was a quick detail including all glass work in and out....

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One thing I really noticed whilst detailing the exterior compared to the 981 is how much more robust the metal work is...with the 981 I had to be very careful not to lean on the front or rear wings as the metal would relatively easily bend in and spring back out again, no chance of that with the 987 😉

......then it was time for the interior......which had been cleaned with that "nasty" shiney / greasy stuff that dealers tend to use as it looks good on pics. For the leather (excluding seats) I cleaned and conditioned and then buffed and for the none leather I just used panel cleaner which is great at removing all previous cleaning products....... Finally for the seats I just cleaned as I prefer a more matt finish on leather seats (or else I end up sliding around the seats lol).....

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I think the car has definately been owned by an enthusiast in its more recent history (eg zunpsort grills where already fitted and N rated tyres all around) as the seats had definately been "sorted" previously ie there was very little dirt to remove and the drivers bolster has been dyed where you get the normal wear marks, saved me a job......

All in all the interior has come up fantastically well, even the steering wheel is like new (not that the shiney stuff has been removed)....the only 2 things I could nit pick are showing 60k miles of use are the gearstick and handbrake lever (the leather is worn around the release button) but I have plane for those soon......

So some pics after my hard work.....

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With my trusted no 2 in his normal "work pose"....

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So then it was out for a good run........and in case I get acused of being a polisher and not a driver I have been working on some PASM tweaks using the DSC controller programing software which I am trialing for UK fast road runs but more on that another day :bye:

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So...... any car with c60k miles on the clock will show signs of wear......mechanically I know the car is sound following a full OPC inspection report (remarkably finding nothing 😁 ) and cosmetically it is in remarkable condition, all original bar a front end blow over / refresh. The biggest signs of wear are the gear stick and handbrake lever, even the seat bolster and steering wheel are in remarkably good condition........so very little left to "tidy up" and so I thought it worth addressing both the gear stick and handbrake to bring them both up to par with the rest of the car.........

Now those who know my 993 know I have a bit of a carbon fetish :o ....

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and so in keeping I sourced some genuine Porsche carbon parts which could have been fitted to the car as options at the point of sale.......

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The gear stick is from a 997 GT3 hence the alcantara shift boot but this can easily be swapped for the original leather item in the car which is in great condition  :bandit:

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Fitting the carbon gear stick and hand brake..........

 ....... the gear stick is dead easy......... and there is an "easy" way to do the handbrake or a "hard" way. The easy way is to try to brake the glue on the actual handle of the brake lever and simply swap over the handle parts ie swap the carbon for the leather trim but retain the rest of the hand brake mechanism. This means that you don't need to remove the centre console at all.........

Now the problem with that is I don't get the OCD carbon part number which is on the replacement unit (to confirm genuine OEM porsche part) .........well OK I tried and could not get them off  :roll: (I was actually concerned I would crack the carbon fibre with too much force applied......

......so.......I'm getting a bit of an expert at removing and refitting the centre console on these things  :roll:

you basically have to do the same as I did to fit the short shift kit  :roll: but the nuts holding the gear lever unit in place are a little tighter to get at. Its important that you have two sockets, one with an extension piece (as you need height to clear obstructions) and one small (as you need to keep very low to clear obstructions).....

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Original and replacement side by side ........

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and fitted........

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so the interior is now as "mint" as its going to get  :thumb: 

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