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What have YOU done to your 986 today ?


Mike G

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Removed the headlights to do a bit of restoration on the lenses and fit new dip and sidelight bulbs.

On refitting I had the same issue with both. Cant get the wiring plugs to connect properly.

Currently have only a sidelight on one side and only main beam on the other.

Both connectors have quite a bit of movement in the holders, and I can see that some of the plastic has broken off on the connectors where they sit in the holder..

Im guessing I will have to remove front wheels and arch liners and push the connectors in from the rear ?

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56 minutes ago, Bradders59 said:

Removed the headlights to do a bit of restoration on the lenses and fit new dip and sidelight bulbs.

On refitting I had the same issue with both. Cant get the wiring plugs to connect properly.

Currently have only a sidelight on one side and only main beam on the other.

Both connectors have quite a bit of movement in the holders, and I can see that some of the plastic has broken off on the connectors where they sit in the holder..

Im guessing I will have to remove front wheels and arch liners and push the connectors in from the rear ?

Not teaching your Grandma to suck eggs or such, but you did use the headlight tool to latch the headlight back in until it clicked?

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59 minutes ago, Bradders59 said:

Removed the headlights to do a bit of restoration on the lenses and fit new dip and sidelight bulbs.

On refitting I had the same issue with both. Cant get the wiring plugs to connect properly.

Currently have only a sidelight on one side and only main beam on the other.

Both connectors have quite a bit of movement in the holders, and I can see that some of the plastic has broken off on the connectors where they sit in the holder..

Im guessing I will have to remove front wheels and arch liners and push the connectors in from the rear ?

I've the same issue on one of my headlamp units. No matter what, it doesn't click in. I have to give it a solid thump in and the connectors make contact. It vibrates itself out again after a few days, and thump again to restore functionality. 

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From memory from when I had mine apart. Gain access to the rear of the light fitting and the connector by removing a wheel and the wheel arch liner. Just a 15 minute job.

You can then see what the problem is.

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On my old car I cut the bracket and you can then push the connector in from the rear by hand. Need a skim hand/wrist though as the wiring isn't that long so light needs to be part way in. 

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Spent a few hours investigating the inoperative horns and finally bit the bullet and removed the front bumper.  I managed this with the car on the ground. Although the horns looked to be very clean and in good order, they were both defective. 

For those who are embarking on this adventure, please note the following... Having established that the fuse and relay were fine, I disconnected one of the horns and used a multi-meter to check for a voltage when the steering wheel button was pushed.... result zero. I used a cable to connect the suspect horn directly to the battery... result zero.   I then fitted a new horn and tried the steering wheel button... result zero.  I checked the new horn was working by connecting it to the battery... result good!

It took a lot of head scratching to realise that I should have disconnected BOTH original horns before starting the investigations as the second horn had a short which had blown the fuse...... 

Anyway, with a new fuse in place, both new horns were successfully fitted.

I remove the rubber air intakes and cleaned the radiators, then unclipped the grilles from the bumper and cleaned, scrubbed and repainted them before refitting them.

I only had one issue when refitting the bumper and that was the underside o/s centre self tapper, didn't appear to be engaging with any clip.  When using a small mirror, I could see a 10mm square recess in the chassis with no evidence of a clip, or even how a clip would work.  The layout of the underside fasteners is not symmetric so I couldn't check the opposite side.  I searched the floor but couldn't find anything?  I eventually gave up on this fastener but eventually found the clip stuck in the treads of my work boots.  I think that it is possible to retrospectively fit the clip but I will need to get the car on the ramps to enable this.

Anyway... all done!

Spug

 

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I remember a comment that said many 986 horns die as they are mounted in a way that allows water to gather and not drain. Remount at a different angle to avoid water gathering in future. I don't know the details.

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2 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

I remember a comment that said many 986 horns die as they are mounted in a way that allows water to gather and not drain. Remount at a different angle to avoid water gathering in future. I don't know the details.

Not so much that they collect water but the lower one in particular is in the airflow from the front right bumper intake.  They both mount on the same bracket and there isn't much space to do much different, alas.

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Switched the alarm off at 01:30 this morning.  Only obvious thing is it has been rain lots.  Battery is about 5 years old but still cranked OK last time it started on Monday.  Hoping I've not got wet electrics but it has survived lots of heavy rain so far this year and drains were clear two weeks ago.....

When the rain stops and things are bit dryer outside I'll take a proper look.

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4 hours ago, Patt said:

check for spiders in the cabin

It's on the check list. Caught the little blighters in the act twice in the past.

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16 minutes ago, iborguk said:

Check the siren back-up battery

Probably a silly question, but is there an easy way of doing that or do you need to open it up ?

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5 hours ago, ½cwt said:

It's on the check list. Caught the little blighters in the act twice in the past.

No uninvited 6 or 8 legged critters found.  No wet carpet either.  No weak cranking when I started it up.  Will investigate batteries more closely at the weekend.  In the meantime I'll see if it goes off again. 🤞

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Replaced the old battery with a new one. Got a good deal on the same spec as I had in the car. I figured it lasted at least 5 years and at £107 delivered it is a good deal. If this one lasts 5 years too I'll be very happy. Car already seems happier when I start it up - no more labouring with a weak battery.

Tomorrow I'll change the door cards for black ones that I got off eBay. Still waiting for the large black carpets to arrive. The other black bits arrived this week (uprights, floor mats, side covers to the centre console, main centre console with an actual working ashtray) and once it does I'll remove the seats (again) and fit the whole lot in one go.

Can't wait.

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Has anyone changed their coolant tank recently that might corroborate something?
 

https://www.eurospares.co.uk/Porsche/Boxster_986/Boxster_986_(2001)/PartDiagrams/105-020/WATER_COOLING
 

I’m still trying to get hose #22 in above link back onto steel line #2

 

The two hose clamps I’ve got for each end of hose #22 are different bloody sizes. In the diagram the clips are both #23 suggesting they are the same size. I’ve been struggling like mad all this time. I really doubt someone has changed coolant  tank in the past and managed to get the smaller clamp that I’ve been struggling with onto that hose with access through the top of the engine bay. So did it come like this from the factory? Are they actually different clips or have I got the bastard that means this has been such a nightmare?

 

So tomorrow I’m going to take the tank back out, swap the hose round and hope the bigger clip means I can get it back together.

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Very much look to be the same clip in the full parts cat, 999 512 552 01 - Hose Clamp 27 x 12. This type of spring clip can break where the band splits into two which may make one clip seem loser if not actually a different size.  Also if you are not already, a bit of rubber grease or Vaseline inside the hose and inside the clamp may help.

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8 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Very much look to be the same clip in the full parts cat, 999 512 552 01 - Hose Clamp 27 x 12. This type of spring clip can break where the band splits into two which may make one clip seem loser if not actually a different size.  Also if you are not already, a bit of rubber grease or Vaseline inside the hose and inside the clamp may help.

One of the pics I took during disassembly last weekend shows me they’re definitely different sizes. I’ve used rubber grease, plus gas and fairy liquid as lubricants so far 🙃

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Straight on. No dramas. What a p*sstake Currently got it running fully up to temp outside no leaks so far. Got half a tank of fuel from September that I'm going to rag through over this weekend. If it dies, it dies.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Jimbop90 said:

One of the pics I took during disassembly last weekend shows me they’re definitely different sizes. I’ve used rubber grease, plus gas and fairy liquid as lubricants so far 🙃

That would imply someone has been in there before you.  It is not unknown for non OE tanks to fail after only a short-ish life.  One of the parts where OE Porsche is strongly recommended.  Like AOS and window regulators too.

Anyway you have a result, have fun draining that tank (through the engine!!).

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Plan today was to DA polisher the car so went to get it washed and once I'd finished I went to put the windows down and hearda clunk and the passenger side window got stuck. The regulator continued to go down with grinding sound. Not good. 

Managed to force the window up and then pushed up the regulator to hold it in place. It made a grinding sound as it went up so is it the motor or regulator? 

Will need to get that replaced now after I inspect it later. 

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10 hours ago, fizz said:

Plan today was to DA polisher the car so went to get it washed and once I'd finished I went to put the windows down and hearda clunk and the passenger side window got stuck. The regulator continued to go down with grinding sound. Not good. 

Managed to force the window up and then pushed up the regulator to hold it in place. It made a grinding sound as it went up so is it the motor or regulator? 

Will need to get that replaced now after I inspect it later. 

Regulator.  Broken wire.  Been there done that. 

Now for the usual debate: salvage, genuine or aftermarket?  You can get 3 or 4 salvage genuine Porsche ones for the price of a new Porsche one.  After market ones are said to give issues by some but others have had no problem.  I chose salvage, carefully lubricated all the wires and running parts before fitting and it is still going strong nearly 4 years later.  Your call...

EDIT From info in another recent topic, new regulator from OPC is just over £200 with VAT and 10% discount.  Salvage is about £70 incl. VAT plus P&P so nit quite 3 for 1 on current salvage prices.

Edited by ½cwt
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I put the new door cards on the car over the weekend.

After taking mine out I realised that there are very slight differences between my car and the later models. The door cards I bought have the airbag inserts, which is not an issue since it is really just a leather panel and it doesn't come with airbags :) but it also has a subtle difference to how the door handle cable attaches to the inside door handle. I wanted to use the silver handles that are on the new door cards but it wouldn't work with my cables. Luckily it's a Porsche so within about two minutes I could get the door handle on the door cards apart, swapped over the silver handles onto my old door card mechanism and install that into the new door cards. Works perfectly and looks really good.

Now if the main carpets will finally arrive I can get that job done this weekend....

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2 hours ago, RedBarediver said:

I wanted to use the silver handles that are on the new door cards but it wouldn't work with my cables.

I came across this issue too.  If you ever have the inside pull cable break, make sure you get the old style one.  Not available new anymore either.

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