½cwt Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 3 minutes ago, the baron said: Looks lovely apart from the split roof 🤪 There's always one. Anyhow you can't see the split in these pics, it is only about 50mm long across the bottom left corner... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the baron Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 Just now, ½cwt said: There's always one. Anyhow you can't see the split in these pics, it is only about 50mm long across the bottom left corner... I can see it, sticks out like a saw thumb 🤓 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 Just now, the baron said: I can see it, sticks out like a saw thumb 🤓 As I said, there's always one and usually its you!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the baron Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 1 minute ago, ½cwt said: As I said, there's always one and usually its you!! I would hate to disappoint 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bradders59 Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 3 hours ago, ½cwt said: Blue hood too? Wheels are GT3 lookalikes from a 996. Didnt spot the blue hood. Mines black. Dont know what my wheels are from exactly, but will post up a pic sometime soon and hopefully someone will tell me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
map Posted March 15, 2021 Report Share Posted March 15, 2021 Minor tweak to try yellow main beam lamps. Know they don’t have the raw power of white but they are supposed to be better for misty/foggy conditions. Am now based on the doorstep of the Yorkshire Wolds which means plenty of misty patches on the ace roads. So thought I’d give them a try. Comparing the Osram Nightshaggers that I’d previously fitted with the PIAA 2500k items that are replacing them: Unless you get right up to the headlight you can’t see them: In daylight the main beam is clearly yellow. Will see how people react in day to day use. Not got out in the dark as yet - but will do so and share that experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patt Posted March 15, 2021 Report Share Posted March 15, 2021 Do you really want main beam on in the mist? Would have thought dipped beam more practical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
map Posted March 15, 2021 Report Share Posted March 15, 2021 47 minutes ago, Patt said: Do you really want main beam on in the mist? Would have thought dipped beam more practical. Good point - my description could have been better. Where mist/fog is dense enough to warrant dipped/fog then that's what you'd use - you're spot on. What occurs around here is far more localised, often just hanging on the road for a few meters before clearing again. I want to see if these yellow main beam lamps are easier to use in those conditions so that I don't have to go to dipped. To be clear I'm talking about roads that see little or no night-time use so you spend more time on main beam than you would otherwise. At the end of the day it's cost me £20 or thereabouts to try it - if they work well then great, if they don't then they're going into the front fog positions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Sapsford Posted March 16, 2021 Report Share Posted March 16, 2021 Fitted the new engine in the 986 racecar and fired it up for the first time 😃😃👍👍 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bradders59 Posted March 17, 2021 Report Share Posted March 17, 2021 (edited) Replaced - cabin fliter, air filter, oil filter and oil. Next job was to locate the speed sensor but it started raining. Hoping it will dry up later and I can back on it. Edited March 17, 2021 by Bradders59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieW Posted March 17, 2021 Report Share Posted March 17, 2021 New front brake discs and pads fitted today. The old discs and pads weren't actually old but the previous owner didn't clean the mating surfaces between the nearside disc and hub so there was a slight wobble when the brakes were applied. The car isn't quite a lemon but it does need a few jobs to make it good. I have learned the car's history was semi created by the previous owner, I wanted to deal with him but I don't have the time and I do quite like the car so decided to put my energy into making it good. It had an oil and filter change a few weeks ago, the filter was examined by myself and the mechanic, the only notable points were two tiny specs of metal, the rest of the filter was clean. Next job is the serpentine belt followed by brake fluid change and finally the IMS bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted March 18, 2021 Report Share Posted March 18, 2021 8 hours ago, CharlieW said: New front brake discs and pads fitted today. The old discs and pads weren't actually old but the previous owner didn't clean the mating surfaces between the nearside disc and hub so there was a slight wobble when the brakes were applied. The car isn't quite a lemon but it does need a few jobs to make it good. I have learned the car's history was semi created by the previous owner, I wanted to deal with him but I don't have the time and I do quite like the car so decided to put my energy into making it good. It had an oil and filter change a few weeks ago, the filter was examined by myself and the mechanic, the only notable points were two tiny specs of metal, the rest of the filter was clean. Next job is the serpentine belt followed by brake fluid change and finally the IMS bearing. Out of curiosity what age is your car and why do you suspect an IMSB replacement is required? It is lot of work and expense however if you are in there throw in the rear main seal and a new clutch/flywheel as you don't want to be paying to drop the 'box too often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Laming Posted March 19, 2021 Report Share Posted March 19, 2021 Went to start it today, flat battery ☹️. It's been in the garage for about three months and I think I've only started it once this year ! It's been hooked up to a CTek charger. Always checked the charge status on the unit when I go into the garage, and it showed nothing untoward. Same this time, except the window didnt drop and the frunk didnt pop. Then noticed no dash lights. Turned off the CTek and re-set with deep conditioning mode whilst I popped upstairs to check the history. New battery (Bosch) purchased in 2012, so I suppose it's done very well. Anyway, popped down to local motor factors (Unity in Byfleet) and picked up another Bosch for £117 with a 5 year warranty. Just need to try and push the bugger out the garage to access the bonnet pin thing in the passenger footwell now. That can wait for another sunny day. P.S. The car has always been on a CTek everytime I put it in the garage since I've owned it (4 years). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Laming Posted March 19, 2021 Report Share Posted March 19, 2021 Battery Update. Fitted the new one. Despite turning the key to position 1, when I removed the negative terminal from the battery, the alarm sounded. Bloody hell, thats loud ! In went the new one, half expecting the alarm to go off again (it didnt), frunk light came on, so all good. Tested the old battery with a volt meter, 5 volts, but would take a charge from both the CTek chargers I have, so I will check tomorrow to see if the battery held it's 12.5v overnight. Whilst the bonnet was up. I fitted my posh new struts to stop the bonnet hitting my head in the slightest of breezes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewwalling Posted March 20, 2021 Report Share Posted March 20, 2021 Oil and filter change Air filter and Cabin filter Tiptonic Oil & Filter change 🤓 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselpower Posted March 20, 2021 Report Share Posted March 20, 2021 (edited) Not all today, but over the last two weekends, fitted a new water pump, thermostat, poly belt, did three coolant flushes and refilled with coolant. For anyone doing this, I only managed to get 16 of the 22 litres of coolant out of our 986S. Had an idea to use our dog/car dryer to see if it would blow any more coolant/water out. On it's lowest setting, it blew another 4 litres of coolant/water out! Highly highly recommended. Also found out the passenger side cooling fan is gubbed, the gearbox oil fill bolt is corroded (and will need bodged off) and the brake pad wear warning flashed up. Oh, more jobs ahead! 😬 Car/pet dryer - https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Gravitis-Stepless-Grooming-Hairdryer-Blaster/dp/B072LP2Q8D Pretty sure mine was £60 a couple of years ago! Edited March 20, 2021 by dieselpower typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazzevans Posted March 21, 2021 Report Share Posted March 21, 2021 On 3/19/2021 at 4:37 PM, Steve Laming said: Battery Update. Fitted the new one. Despite turning the key to position 1, when I removed the negative terminal from the battery, the alarm sounded. Bloody hell, thats loud ! In went the new one, half expecting the alarm to go off again (it didnt), frunk light came on, so all good Is it necessary to turn the ignition to position one? 101 projects doesn’t mention this, nor does the Pelican website or the manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Laming Posted March 21, 2021 Report Share Posted March 21, 2021 (edited) 56 minutes ago, Dazzevans said: Is it necessary to turn the ignition to position one? 101 projects doesn’t mention this, nor does the Pelican website or the manual. I'm sure I've seen it on this forum ! I've just had a quick Google. A French Youtube clip says, "If the car is locked when the battery goes flat, then use the key to open the door and place key in ignition and turn to position 1, if not the alarm MAY sound" My car was unlocked when the battery went flat, so I probably didnt need to do this, as he also says that "Key in the ignition may throw up some fault codes" ! ? Anyway, all sorted now. Edited March 21, 2021 by Steve Laming Update to reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazzevans Posted March 21, 2021 Report Share Posted March 21, 2021 Just tried it. Battery isn’t flat but as soon as I disconnected the battery negative terminal the alarm went off. So I put it to position one and am trying again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bradders59 Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 (edited) As Ive mentioned previously my car came to me with ABS light on and speedo not working, but a new sensor included to fix the problem. Gave up on trying to find the sensor near gearbox output for the speedo, and decided I would check resistance of rear ABS sensors as they look the same as the sensor supplied with the car. They gave readings very close to the one from the new sensor so that didnt really help much. I then remembered reading posts on the forum by the previous owner, that this problem occurred after the alternator fried itself. Next thought was possibly ABS control unit had also fried itself. I then remembered a bit of advice from a long time ago "start with the basics". So I decided to check the fuses. Lo and behold the ABS fuse was blown, so I replaced it and the ABS light went out. I expect the speedo will also work when the car goes on the road on the 1st April. 🙂 Also checked the tyre pressures which were 32psi all round. Let some air out of the fronts and put some more in the rears. Edited March 23, 2021 by Bradders59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizz Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Desnorkel done after a fight with the bloody thing. My hands are too big so a fellow member on here helped get the bugger out. Maybe it's it's part placebo but sounds much better when going up the revs from about 4k onwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Sapsford Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 Done the rest of the jobs on the racecar over the last.week. Repainted interior floor and rollcage, tidied up the wiring in the boot and interior. Fitted new aero catches to the boot lid, new stickers, fitted the ballast weights, new exhaust, discs and pads. All ready for Donington on the 10th April 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
map Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 Aimed some harsh words at it. The AOS failed. Drat. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizz Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 Replaced the headlights with osarm night breakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonogt6 Posted March 24, 2021 Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 (edited) Repainted my boot levers from black to silver. No proper before piccys but they were very scratched and damaged. Look pretty good now 😀 Edited March 24, 2021 by jonogt6 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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